WizardBlack

So you say you are doing a swap but you don't know what you have. We can't really help with a cost estimate on that. Ply the search tool for what all you'll need to make a swap. Read stickies, etc.

Do you have a Haynes manual or a multimeter? It's been a while for me (since I removed all the factory stuff), but I don't think the hazards or turn signals have relays. They have the switch (that you flip) and the timer that clicks it on and off.

That attitude won't fly very well on a hybrid site. Not to mention you are flat-out wrong about modern V8's and weight compared to RB/2JZ, etc.

Still have to get the struts/shocks to have a range of motion, too.

Easy there, just asking. You can certainly post stuff up for sale and I am sure you know from your post count. Got pics? Always good to peek at another Z.

Mystery component A looks like the hood switch for a security system. The sticker on your quarter glass seems to support that, too. Yeah, B is the fuel injector cooling fan (and associated junk). Take the cover off of your AFM and carefully work a bit of PB Blaster into your flap hinge and it'll work nice and smooth again. Tuning the AFM is easy enough to do via spark plug observation. Check out www.atlanticz.ca for the EFI Bible if you haven't found it already. BTW, welcome home from service, too!

Good luck and take some good snaps of it!

So what's the theory for the brake pedal going squishier again after they WERE hard? That's what's making me tear my hair out.

Sweet.

Rebar would probably bend, though, no?

Yeah, I did the rolling, but not the jumping on the door sills. LOL never thought I'd need that, but that makes an excellent point. I got too busy covering my dash in alcantara that I forgot to check the alignment. It's kinda sitting crooked on a sloped concrete area anyways.

So your recommendation would be to drive it about (carefully) to get the calipers to whet (they are all new "loaded" rebuilds from Autozone) and then re-bleed them?

That's what I'd thought from observing other cars lowered to the point that they need sectioned struts, etc. I will take another peek tommorow after it's been sitting on it's own feet for a while.

How about the "other" octane booster that really does do more than 0.2 octane boost? I can't recall who makes it but it's like the parts store derived bottles in appearance. It really does add at least a few octane to it. Gah, too late in the day to remember stuff...

http://www.atlanticz.ca is a good place to get the EFI bible. I removed all the emissions stuff before I removed the factory computer. I just removed the EGR from the intake and bolted a little blockoff plate in it's place to avoid removing the intake (at the time). I also unplugged the cold start injector and basically configured it for a basic throttle stop idle to delete a lot of the vac and heat driven stuff off the intake manifold. The car's electronics are very simple and the EFI bible will explain all of it on this specific car. Grab a Haynes manual as well and learn the stuff; you'll need to know it for the standalone anyways. Not sure if you will like the TEC3 as it's not widely used (compared to others). Check my member's projects; I have a pic of the intake. I have a megasquirt now but I removed all the stuff while still operating the factory ecu and AFM setup.

The VH45DE in United States market limits you to 95 and earlier. You don't want a '96. Likewise, the first three years had the timing chain guide issue (which is easy to swap out) but had stronger rods, IIRC. There are differences in the inlet ports of the heads, but that's mostly just a slight variation in how you fab up a manifold to fit. I won't comment on VH41's since I didn't follow them as much, but I personally don't see any of the VH41's "superior design features" actually causing a problem on a VH45DE. However, nicoclub and vh45de.com are great places to start.

definition of "too expensive"? Details might help your case.

Ah, well I am only permitted 250; dunno what your limit is. You have the red/orange/green bar in your inbox? Any green left? BTW, you car looks exactly like mine did when I bought it (unless the color in your sig is a tad misleading). Is it a metallic gray with a bit of green?

My question was the first sentence. It was a question in the form of a statement (of how I understand it) and asking for confirmation that this was correct.

Sorry, I didn't know ppl might consider out as negative. It has slight positive camber (ie., sticking out at the top) and toe out, although it seems to have lessened after driving it around the parking lot a bit. It's been on stands for a couple months. Yes, I did roll it back and forth first (after lowering it onto the wheels) before observing the alignment.

That's what I said.

Butterscotch is a bit tougher than tan, black, grey or red, though.

Gawd, I know my wife would trade her car in for that. Very nice. Nissan pay attention to this man.

It looks like they told a 10 year old to make the 350Z look like a transformer with a pissed off expression. Two thumbs down. Shoulda put whoever designed the G37 in charge. Where's that other retro 240 design??? Put that #&*$ thing into production!!! This one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133638&highlight=concept+240Z

LOL. Well, I've had worse cars. One was named "satan" by everyone if that tells ya anything. Anyways, I rechecked the brakes again today and they do sink down; they don't stay firm as they did yesterday. I guess it's time to ditch the speed bleeders. Anything that could be drawing air into the system?