SHADY280

I have all new bushings in mine and the Mercedes old school spring swap. I shook so bad one day with my open diff it threw off number 6 spark plug wire! It felt like I really broke something.

Check the cam tower shim thickness. Will give you a slight indication of how much was shaved off the head. That and look at a picture of a stock n47 stamp and look at yours. Kind of a visual cue to see if it's got a ton taken off to get that low cc. If your going to pull the head maybe take advantage of the situation and grab a different casting number head like a p series and shave it down .080" and do some intake runner work. Put the longer valves from the n47 into it and grab some shims from Derek.

From what I have experienced the n47 head is a junker head with horrible chamber design. I had horrible detonation with mine and I swapped out to a shaved down p79 and the detonation went away and I was able to up the timing quite a bit. With your current compression and large cam mixed with a poor chambered head your not getting any potential out of your parts. With that head the 40's are fine. Get a better head and bigger carbs and you will be happy.

Hahahaha that must be translated from Chinese. The instructions are correct if you get around the poor wording, and all coilover kits will/ should have the same install. The nice part with that kit is it comes with the sleeves to weld onto the stock parts. Sometimes you take the s13 sleeve with the spindle mount and cut and grind said mount off, then clean off the paint before you weld.

Rip John you were a stand up guy and you are gone far too soon.

I've re used mine about 4 times now. No troubles at all. Mine is the Nissan unit and I have a 1mm and 2mm for when I was trying different head combos.

There was a group buy a while ago for them. Do some searching and maybe someone has one laying around

Perfect!! I fought with a leaky speedo unit for years.

eBay has replacement ones for about $10 that includes the outter seal too. You may be able to source them from the dealer. To get the seal out its pretty simple. Drive the roll pin out and remove the shaft, remove the felt dust seal (if it's still there) then use a dental pick to dig the old one out. It's a strange size my local parts store didn't have.

I also am looking into a g series in the x model. Interesting to hear all the reviews on here. Some of the 04/05 models here range from 5k to 12k. It's kinda odd like that and considering a 37 starts at 12k and goes up to 18k might make the 37 worth the extra. My current daily is a 95 Altima with 370,000 km on it and I think it will last past 500 but I wouldn't mind the upgrade! I know to get better economy and power out of the motor many people recommend the plenum spacer. I wonder what the real world mileage is like. My wife's 06 murano isn't so hot and only likes 91 octane.

How about a set of lighter 8mm rods?? Less rotating mass and can be just as strong with arp bolts. $150 shipped.

Hud I'm local to you as well. I run one of Jeff's cams in my car. There is a local guy named zoltan. Look for him out here in the valley. He is a wizard with heads and flow as well as sourcing valve parts

I found using an adapter and a USB cable and 9 pin serial cable was a terrible combo. I removed the USB cable and it solved my problem completely.

I'm from bc in the lower mainland as well (mission). They don't meet very often if at all anymore. I used to host cruises out in the mountains here but haven't in a while.

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=76&t=60640 Here are some instructions to a more scientific approach. Seems legit. I know I have to do the same on mine

I do have an msd tach adapter sitting on the bench from when I had a regular distributor and msd 6a box. Would I hook it between the Fidle line and the tach line then??

Ah got it. So I need to get the ecu opened up then and add some stuff. I'll have to give the ms extra site a read. Thx for the reply. There is so many ways and opinions out there it's hard to decifer which one I need

Hey everyone I'm looking for ideas of how to get my stock tach working. My car is a 79 zx with na motor. I'm running 1fastz's ford coil setup and using a turbo dizzy as my optical trigger with DIY's disc. Also I have no edis on board as I'm using ms2 v3.57 modified with bip373 units instead (ecu mods by fricfrac aka Mackay power) so what I've tried is using Fidle and iac1 to trigger my stock tach. I go in and select these in tacho settings and then I'm trying to hook it to the old coil negative (blue wire). Do I need an adapter or have I missed something. Thanks in advance.

The 9 pin serial cable is a very good data cable and isn't affected by electronic noise. It operates from 3-15 volts whereas most USB cables aren't shielded and operated within a 200 mv range making them very susceptible to electrical noise. I ditched my USB and just use a good quality adapter and my sync problem went away

Only the fronts work for our rears. It really helped out the squat that comes with the s130's. What I also found is the car is very predictable to autox now. It's a great balance on the cheap. I found cars with lowering springs didn't handle as nice compared to mine with stock fronts and 300d rears. The lowering springs available still squated quite a bit and ended up creating a front push condition. Hope that info helps

For the front your just gonna need Datsun springs, no crossover there. You can post an add to find those or wrecking yard hunting. Getting lowering springs is also an option. As got the Mercedes springs, yes they work in the rear. I have a set in mine, 4 coils needs to be removed to attain stock ride height. They are from an 85 300d model. Try looking up ground control for the front. It's a threaded sleeve that mimics coilovers and mounts to your current strut. Hope that helps

Keep the front struts. 510 guys like them, rear diff especially if it has cv shafts in it for whichever reason, they may have been swapped in. Driveshaft, rear hatch, hood etc. taillights can fetch some cash if they are in decent shape.

It's just a simple hook up for the coil. You have that correct. Only thing that is commonly overlooked is that the msd coil should be mounted vertically as it is oil filled. The instruction sheet recommends it. I think your car has compression, all that's left is fuel. How's the fuel pressure?? Are the injectors firing? Maybe try and squirt a little fuel into the intake and see if it gives a little burp as it tried to run. Gives you a starting point

Ross from mm used to run 5 stud on his and used 3rd gen rx7 wheels. He said they were the best out there as they were the strongest and lightest wheels. He started out using 300zx hubs until he made the aluminum ones. He drove that car really hard before it was stolen and I found it .

The aftermarket sway bar uses bigger (or should have come with) bigger brackets for it. What always happens to them is they break and you need to make new ones out of thicker steel or a block of aluminum. Search should yield some good options around here, what I did was get a shop to bend a piece of 3/16" flatbar with tabs on either side and recreate the bracket. Hasn't broken since!!!