spork

Last I checked, you can still buy them from the nissan dealer...

If the car is red, I'm sure you're right...haven't seen any other wheelstanding 9 second 240z's in this neck of the woods...

The auto trans in a drag car is the way to go...no question about it. If I don't end up selling my car listed in my signature (I need money to fund the drag car), it may end up with an auto as well.

A dremel won't get you very even results due to the small sanding drum, but it can be done that way. I would suggest 1 inch sanding drum on a drill connected to some all-thread rod. It'll allow you to get into the port some while cutting a larger surface keeping things smoother and less chance of cutting lots of ribs in the manifold. You still can't get all the way up the ports this way, but you should do much better than you would with a dremel. Its pretty simple to do yourself. Just mark it like you described with a magic marker or something and then sand it away until you can't see the marker anymore and blend it up into the runner some. Be careful of the lumps in the runners if this is a fuel injected manifold. You can sand them completely off and smooth things out but you will need to use some epoxy to fill the holes where you end up sanding through to the injector hold down bolt holes. Epoxy it up and then sand off the extra.

Lol, I know what you mean by the highest powered cars not always being the fastest, which is why I included "fastest" in the section you quoted. I just didn't want to start a new thread that was going in a very similar direction as this one did. I'm also well aware of the benefits of the drivetrain, and I thats why I've got plans for using a powerglide and a solid axle and 4 link in the rear to help avoid parts breakage, allow to run some wide tires by tubing it, and put that power to the ground. 60ft times is where its all at! That's why I'm building this drag car...I'm tired of feathering my street car out of the hole, and I'm not ready to spend the big money on it, when I'm really looking to build a full drag car and start from scratch.

I'm using one of the new sata digital hvlp guns on my harbor freight pressure pot...lol. Talk about a strange mix, but it works wonderful! I spray semi's...and you wouldn't believe how much pickier these guys are than the average auto owner! I'm using a .8 tip and shooting base clear, and everything through it. Gets absolutely awwesome atomization, and you can litterally lay it on like glass. The key with the pressure pot I've found is to crank up the pot pressure while using a small fluid tip and it comes out beautiful every time. I can't really compare this sata to any of the others due to its pressure pot configuration...other than the harbor frieght gun that cam with the pot was horrible. I wouldn't have used it to spray trash cans...

I'm not sure exactly what the problem is, so bear with me while I try to help. It is very common to see the intakes have smaller runners than the head (if thats what you're describing). It can either be port matched to smooth the transition, or you can get a an aftermarket intake, or you can have your intake cut apart and ported out properly and then welded back together. Most people opt for option 1 because it's easy and a lot of people have done it themselves. Option 2 can run you anywhere fro $600 on up for a new manifold, but you may come across a used one cheaper than that. Option 3 varys depending on where you take it to have the work done. Now if your saying your gasket has smaller ports than the one you took off...then maybe you should check and see if it looks like someone has ported the head and then modified the gasket .

Not to bring up a really old thread, but I want some updates...and maybe a little more info. Does anyone have any solid info on the highest powered/fastest 1/4 Z with the L series motor stateside (or elsewhere)? I've got plans to build a pretty mean drag car going from the experiences I've had with my street car, but I've been doing a lot of research first. People keep throwing out that the cranks can break at certain rpms, and the non-cross flow heads we have won't cut the mustard, but I know there has to be some meaner L-series cars than mine and I wanna know about them. The car will handle the power, but can the engine make the power I want. I don't want to hear about going with another engine at this point, but want to hear more about the L-series first. My car should be around 525rwhp (according to mph in the 1/4) or a little over 600 at the crank. I know there is more power to be had in this car cause I still haven't had a chance to put it on the dyno and get it tuned. I'm looking to run mid to low 8's and maybe even mae it into the 7's some day. I don't want to be told it can't be done, but rather the interesting ideas you guys have of how it "might" be done. Transmission and differential are the easy part of this build as well as building the chassis correctly. Give me some experiences that you guys have encountered at high power levels. Stronger cranks can be made, good dampners can be found, heads can be coated to help with heat transfer and the car will also probably be running methanol to keep things cool as well. Who's gone with the lightweight valve train and had good experinces? I've talked to guys with going to smaller stemmed chevy valves and then using the titanium retainers and lightening things up there quite a bit. Anyways, throw out some ideas. I know this isn't a cheap build, but want to hear the ideas. Any cylinder head used has to be a production head in runs of 500 or more if memory serves me correct on the rules.

You need to install bolts and resize the rods and then balance them. Other wise when they're resized, the weights will change.

Good luck finding a running one for under a $1000 around here...better start saving up some more money.

Whats the primary use of the car? I installed a set of air bags on my 280zxt in the rear I kept all stock suspension (new struts and springs but stock ride height) and then cut out part of the floor where the storage compartments. There is a hole in the control arm that goes all the way through. I installed an air bag from a Peterbuilt/kenworth sleeper on each side and built a box out of plate for the top of the bag to mount to. For a car that is going to be driven on the street a lot, I suggest running very little air in the bags, or adding a tank for each bag to help keep the spring rate of the air bags in check. I don't have any pics tho...so I hope you can somewhat visualize what I'm talking about. This is the only pic I've taken when I was discussing the idea originally in a different thread. I run mine mostly 1/4 mile and keep the bags at about 50psi on the track but run about 15-20psi on the street.

I just dissasembled the couple I've done while on the trailer. Then the guy at the scrap yard picked it off the trailer with a crane. Got $54 and change last weekend for a giant rust bucket 280zx after I pulled engine and trans from it.

Don't mess with the AFM unless you know for certain thats whats wrong with it. Many people screw them up by trying to adjust them. Rarely will the settings need changed! Just fair warning.

its all a function of time....if your car is slow you'll use more nitrous because you'll take longer running the 1/4. If you only use it in 3rd and 4th gear so you don't loose traction, you'lll uyse even less. I would suggest reading up on the nitrous express web site. they have a huge FAQ page with some good info. Also do a search for "nitrous" and then "NOS" and so on using the search function on this site...you've got weeks of reading ahead....

I had robin at superior friction build a clutch for my car and at your power levels, he can build a grerat clutch for you...and he's reasonably priced as well.

I bought 3 tickets earlier tonight. I honestly wish I could afford more...regardless of winning the engine or not, Its just gonna be cool to see the car heading down the track and know the work, time, and plain old luck that was thrown into this car.

I know I'm cutting it close, but can tickets still be purchased?

I had similar experiences. Move the sensor as far down stream as possible. I had several sensors go bad when it was mounted in the stock location. I moved it about 2.5-3' down the line and its been working great.

they're red "x's" for me...

I bought 180 degree u bends and then cut them up as needed

It's hard to tell in the pictures, but it looks like the flow has to take a 180 degree turn...then travel 4 miles of pipe to the wastegate. With a big turbo, you may have a hard time dialing the bost down to lower numbers when trying to get the car tuned. Probably not an issue once you crank the boost up, but could definetly be a problem on lower boost levels. With a header like that, it could be a matter of you just can't have your cake and eat it too...

I'm interested in pictures and prices of the steering wheel, 16" rims, and wheel adapters. Are the wheels set up for the honda bolt pattern I assume? The link to the pics isn't working for me anymore either

hey, no problem, Also, if you need a clutch and you don't work a deal with viola, check out robin at Superior friction (408-436-1206) and tell him James Roraback sent you

how about an updated list of what you have left...if you have anything left.

If you're interested in port work, give me a pm and I can discuss it with you. I'll be straight out honest with you, for your goals, it will not be required, but could be helpful.