Bob_H

Here is what I can find quickly - on my old website: http://www.reocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/turbo1.jpg and http://www.reocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/turbocarb.jpg I have some more I think - I'll look around next week.

Wow - I don't feel so bad about letting my project sit! If you have questions - I think I still have pictures of when it was installed in my Datsun before I sold it to you. For example, the crankcase vent - it was cut down and turned forward if I remember. I'll have to fish around for pics.....let me see what I can find. -Bob

But do you have numbers from before the swap? Please get good numbers BEFORE you swap so there is something to compare and contrast. I'd be interested in what the old setup was - were the carbs in good shape, etc... I did the flow testing for Scott Bruning back in 99-2000 when he was trying to get the SCCA approval for just the roller bearing SU's,(no thinned shafts). They laughed at us and said - fat chance, its modified from stock, doesn't matter if there is no flow advantage. I wish I still had that paper I submitted.... I can't find it to save my life. Oh, to the much earlier,(4 years earlier), questions about the rims on my car here: http://www.reocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/72Datsun.html which is already massively modified and changed here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115751 The rims are CCW Classics - available in all sizes and offsets. -Bob

If they can't, I have a very low mileage RB25 trans I'll sell. You know my transmission I'm using, so I won't be using this one. -Bob

Well, some pictures of the front suspension work - the final picture - the first time its seen wheels and suspension for two years! -Bob

Late to the party - but I'd love to hear the report on MONZTER's modified head on the car - how did it do? -Bob

Thank goodness I had taken pictures of the suspension when I pulled it - trying to figure out what adjusters go where, sway brackets, bushings, etc.. - what a pain! It took me two solid nights working to file off the extra powdercoating,(they put it on super thick - two primer coats, three main!), tapping out all the threads,(that was the longest and the most painful - my palms are still sore!) Its nice to see the progress. I did some $$ reality check on what I needed for the engine re-assembly, that will have to wait until I finish my RX-7 LS2 swap. Just can't drop another $2k+ right now. But it moves along....

Got your PM - for everyone talking to me about the pan, please note this: "I may be re-designing my engine mounts and if that's the case, will sell both the old oil pan and my engine mounts. " Meaning - if I don't re-design my engine mounts, the pan stays with me - they are sold as a set. Sorry to get guys excited. I'll post a separate post if that's the case. -Bob

Well, it took me getting out of the Navy to have time to work on this again. I'm starting back full force tomorrow. Engine is being re-assembled, suspension is already powdercoated, now being tapped again,(some crap in the threads), and new bearings installed and everythings going back on. May not have pictures immediately, but I'll tell you I'm excited to finally get moving on this again. I'll get the engine assembled and back in, the suspension assembled and back on,(brakes/rims,etc.), and then I'll stop - I will switch to a different project,(RX-7 w/LS2 swap), finish it, then come back to this around christmas to get running. This has been the longest project I've stalled on - I'm ready to get it going after three years in my possession after paint was done. -Bob PS-I'll eventually be selling my original oil pan, and maybe my older engine mounts - I'll post up here when I do.

I have one of the original pans he based his design from,(the flange/etc..). Brad Davies made two - one for me, one for him. I've since completely re-done my oil pan setup - but still have this one. The one minor issue I had was it was close to my steering rack and rubbed a little - one was the bumper - easily adjusted, the other was one side of the top hold-downs - again, if your engine mounts end up placing it close, easy to trim down. It already has the drain plug - but does not have a pickup tube fab'd. I may be re-designing my engine mounts and if that's the case, will sell both the old oil pan and my engine mounts. I'll know about the engine mounts in about two weeks - I'm starting back up progress on the resto. I will post in this forum offering it up. -Bob

Well, I continue to be as busy as I can - this year is crazy, we were way behind on student aviator production and as the Asst ops officer, I keep things running in addition to my flying 40+ sorties a month. I haven't touched the car. I'm actually selling my V8 RX-7 swap because I found one w/o a sunroof and want to turn that into my daily driver - so that has taken some time up. I also recently met a really neat 85 year old WWII and Korean war Corsair pilot I've been spending a lot of time with - what an incredible guy. He's got some stories! I've been helping him with his older single engine plane w/some maint. and flying him occasionally since his medical is no longer any good. I wish I could say when I'll be working on this again - but I honestly don't know. I've been doing my best to pare down my cars and projects - I was up at 10 cars, I'm now down to 6 - with the Datsun and my RX-7 being the only two "projects". The rest are drivers or stored at my parents for a long term project, (including the original 240z I bought way back when and wrote the Datsun Workshop about). To answer the questions - yes, the pickup will be raised, its waay too low now that I've seen more info - I had no info when I built it despite looking all over the place. I'm not quite sure how I'll do it - I'd like to raise the pickup, not increase the sump size. The dipstick will be a custom setup after I determine sump capacity, baffle design, etc.., but I understand your point - and that is not why it was put that close - I went off how close the stock RB pickup point was - but its a weird design - so it turns out I was off a little in how I measured. The only progress I've had is all the suspension parts that were pulled have since been powdercoated black - and I vowed not to touch the car until my daily driver was completed and the other one sold. When I spread myself over two or three projects, they take forever.....(sound familiar to anyone?). -Bob

I had forgotten about this thread. Some very good points - I'll clarify a few, but fundamentally, what your saying is correct and thanks for pointing that out. You can tune with gasoline AFR's when using meth. Absolutely, I agree 100%. It does not matter that the stoich has changed. I wouldn't say it doesnt' matter at all, but for tuning if you adjust what your targeting appropriately, it doesn't matter. The AFR is just a representation of your lamba in terms of your fuels stoich. O2 sensors output lamba and this value(my bolding), regardless of stoich, does not change. Minor point: O2 sensors(the actual sensor) output Lambda only,(technically just a voltage corresponding to Lambda). Its the controller/Gauge that then converts it to Stoich for gasoline,(or whatever you have programged it to put for stoich). Now, AFR gauges report your AFR based on gasoline (unless you can change it) which has a stoich of 14.7. Which dovetails with what you said above - I just wanted to clear up for others that the sensor itself only reads and outputs voltage for Lambda. Regardless of how much methanol you run, you can still tune using gasoline AFRs since it is a number we are all familiar with. The key point to remember is that your lamba value will not change and that your AFR is simply stoich times lamba. Your AFR value is simply a conversion value and should not be taken as an absolute. Your true AFR will not be reported if you are running a blend since the stoich value is not correct, but you do not care about your true AFR. That's the key point. The info I gave is to compute true AFR. If you can convert your tuning midset to Lambda - its a moot point, just tune to the Lambda. However, as you pointed out, if you have a gauges setup that will only display Gasoline AFR,(or you can't change it), then you need to change what your target is. First, you need to know your target, such as 20% rich, or .80 Lambda - then multiply it by the stoich for whatever your gauge is setup for,(Gasoline of 14.7 in 99% of the cases, remember, Diesel is 14.5, etc..). If your not sure, assume Gasoline at 14.7. After multiplying your target Lambda by the stoich, you have your target AFR, (11.76 in this case). That is where there was some good confusion created above by mine and other posts. If you have tuned your car w/a meth/water injection for 10.5:1 on your gasoline referenced AFR gauge, your running very rich, (.71 Lambda), which is much, much richer than you should target for even just boosted applications. The biggest advantage of running Meth/water mix is you can run closer to a NA Lambda max power setup - because of the cooling effect of the meth and water. Here was a great set of posts about exactly what's going on and how to use what ktm said and what I've expanded on: http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=105601 Heres a great post about what to target and what to do w/meth injection. Specifically post #91 http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=105546&st=80&p=1461761entry1461761 Realize that post #96 that the poster from #91 acknowledges as a great post is not correct - there is one big incorrect assumption in his post I can clarify if requried - but its already clarified in the first link post #7, (the poster in #91 posted the same thing in the first link and was wrong both times). ktm, great job clarifying how people can use gasoline AFR gauges - I did a terrible job and certainly confused the issue. -Bob

My car is down in corpus - about 7 hours south. Regardless- the Navy has me in California till the end of the month. There is a nice one in Austin - about 3 hrs south - that is this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115779 Mark Rolston. His car is pretty nice - tracks it very reguarly. -Bob

Thanks for the compliment. My Datsun has been languishing under a car cover in the garage for the past 6 months. I flew 55 hours last month - remember that is 0.9-1.3hrs at a time, so around 45 flights in 20-24 work days. I'm hoping to get back to things again next year,(February). I'm gone in Jan - so Feb should be a good starting point. I didn't realize its been since March that I posted in this thread.... What a crazy year. Again, anyone in the Corpus area - shoot me a PM or e-mail and I'll gladly share some time for you to see the car and poke fun at how long its taking me. -Bob

Dragging this back up from the dead. What bearings did you end up going with? And to clarify - the RW117 bearing is the same for inner and outer - i.e. you need 4 total? Or do you need two RW117 and two RW116?

Yea, what a hack job........ I'm obviously biased on the CCW's, after all, I have two sets...:

I think that the R33 motors had an electric motor to pwr the HICAS steering in the back, so the R33 PS pumps are just regular ones,(at least mine was). The R32 pumps are much larger and pump back to the rear of the car to pwr the HICAS.

Bah, why two turbos? You can get 500+rwhp with one draw through setup! (granted my setup had lots of development time and a shot of nitrous or water injection depending on setup).: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/dynoplot.jpg Engine: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/turbo1.jpg Picture page: http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/72Datsun.html To answer the question before its asked - that motor is sold to someone else and I've been working on a RB26 swap, repainted the car, rewired, etc... -Bob

No need to go to the RB list - the horse has offered his opinion. I think that's about as good as you'll get. Maybe that 3L OS bottom end might help some! -Bob

Something to add - although somewhat unrelated. Your problem is under boost, so this may or may not be adding to the issue. Many BOV's leak - period. My HKS race pull type leaked when I got it - anything over about 5-8psi. I don't think that is the cause of your issue, but esp. with the design BOV you have, you will want to check it out. Find a way to put pressure on the BOV seat from the pipe side,(you may have to remove the BOV and create something custom - that's what I had). Then apply pressure to the valve, (simulating the pipe side), and then apply the pressure to move the BOV itself - you shouldn't hear anything under positive pressure. About 8 out of 10 BOV's I check leak. Some really, really bad. I had to use valve lapping compound on the seat of my valve to get it to seal. Now on the HKS race one, it doesn't have an o-ring like many of those on the market today, (so guys reading this, PLEASE don't use lapping compound on yours if it has an O-ring!). Another, easier way to check if its leaking is to put your hand over the BOV outlet while on the dyno to see if anything is coming out,(try to seal it up w/your hand). It goes w/o saying to be careful doing that while the car is under power.

I'll second sending that question to Matt on the RB26 yahoo group - he's built more than any of us in very high power configurations. I doubt its the BOV's as long as it is working properly since you are having the issue under boost, not after letting off the throttle. Again, Matt has a lot of experience with this and likely can point you in a better direction than any of us on this side of the Pacific. -Bob

I couldn't formulate an adequate answer to the meth cooling effect,(or any alcohol for that matter) I did what any sane person would do - I asked the smartest person I know. He is an OEM calibrator and was responsible for the Dodge SRT4 tuning and is currently responsible for driveability and fuel mileage on the upcoming Chevy Volt,(which will likely re-define what we think is good gas mileage). Anyways, here is his response as I can't encapsulate it as well. If any of this is not clear - just ask and I'll clarify. It is important to note his last few comments about ensuring that you only have less base fuel and more timing if you are sure you have meth flowing. If it runs out - and your table is leaned out to compensate for the meth - that's a good way to toast an engine. added some edit at the end. Bobby, We run richer ratios with boost primarily to control burn temp, rate, and knock. With alcohol blends that naturally burn cooler and slower than gasoline, you may not need as much safety margin for these reasons. This may allow you to run closer to LBT ratios like we do N/A. If you run meth injection, I would recommend first tuning without it if at all possible. This will give you a good failsafe mode. Then you have to remember that meth is fuel, so adding that in does several things: it blends the stoich point, blends the average octane, and cools the charge/burn temps. I would still look at lambda (not AFR) when using alcohol blends. As you add meth (without increasing airflow), you will probably see a drop in lambda. If you artificially lean out the base (non-meth assisted) fuel delivery target, you should really have some safety check to avoid an overly lean condition if the meth runs out to avoid damage. The same goes for spark advance. Hopefully, you are only leaning the mix and adding timing when the meth is actually flowing. Once you have confirmed that you have meth contribution, it is desirable to run more lead (to get closer to MBT timing) and perhaps a leaner lambda that gets closer to LBT since temp control is less of a concern. On edit - I should clarify some of the terms as they are not likely universally known. LBT = Lean Best Torque, which is ~.92 Lambda depending on engine. We tune to richer than that for a safety margin and to ensure under all condtions, you won't go leaner than that, (the .88 NA and .78 boosted). MBT = Maximum Brake Torque - which is the maximum power at that given rpm/load and once you have the fueling set, you tune via timing to achieve that. The end statement of tuning with more lead - means more advance.