Sam280Z

More spoon feeding http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=+115&searchinresults=false&Ntt=fidanza+229501 I ordered this part number and received 2 inserts in a plastic bag. Sam

Wedding ring under the passenger seat. The car was a one owner car before me. Tried to give it back to him, but he had no idea where it came from. He let me keep it... Sam

I think he is asking for the bolts that attach the driveshaft (halfshaft) to the companion flange. The thing that requires "no peening" is the 280ZX stub axle nut, which you really do not need to remove to replace strut inserts. The hafshaft to companion flange bolts are special because they have no threads where the go through the companion flange and the halfshaft flange. You should still be able to get these from Courtesy Nissan. Have you tried passing a magnet around where you lost yours? That is how I usually find missing bits. Sam

You cannot fit "stock" mikuni velocity stacks under individual filters without cutting away some of the stack. I went round and round trying to solve this problem. I ended up making a sandwich with two stainless sheet metal plates and two Lamborghini Countach K&N air filters. These were the only filters I could find that clear the stacks. If I had it to do over again, I would metal form the ss to make a lip for the filter and build a spacer so that only one filter was needed. Sam

Oh jeez. I have to aplogize. I didn't read your post close enough and ASSumed you were using a mig. I would not attempt this with a stick. Maybe a lap joint, but definitely not a butt joint. Sorry, Sam

it may seem counter-intuitive, but try turning the heat up to help with the blow-through problem. The weld puddle will form very quickly with a smaller area. I have had good results with this approach. Sam Also, looking closely at the picture, it looks like you are getting most of the blow though where the metal is pitted. You might need to cut farther back.

huh?

are you sure you have the correct pilot bushing? There seem to be two differnt ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-Clutch-Pilot-Bushing-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQihZ012QQitemZ220115230542QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-510-520-521-620-720-Clutch-Pilot-Bushing-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46101QQihZ012QQitemZ220116578308QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Probably dependent on the size of the crank

Did it turn before? I would guess that the steering being stuck is probably the steering column lock. Make sure that the key is in and turned to the right. You may have to wiggle the steering wheel as you turn the key. The tie rods connect the steering rack to the steering knuckles (below the bumpsteer spacers) and do not have nylon locknuts. I think you are referring to the nut on top of the strut. If the strut turns as you attempt to tighten this nut, the D shaped hole in the upper spring perch is wallowed out. Perfect solution is to replace the offending part. totally workable solution is to use a strap wrench (plumbing section of Lowes) to hold the strut shaft. Sam

If lead doesn't (can't) crack, how do you explain the dreaded b-pillar crack?

make sure your bleeder screws on the calipers are on on the top. If not switch sides. Sam

individual connectors: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/injector-connectors-Datsun-Nissan-280z-280zx-300zx_W0QQitemZ290058246931QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33553QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem or a kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/injector-connectors-kit-6pc-datsun-280z-280zx-300zx_W0QQitemZ290058428726QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33553QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Forrest is a member here at HybridZ... Sam

Rick, Thanks a lot. I think you are correct about the use of a later shaft. Here is the link to the thread that contains your original post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108856 I couldn't find it in when I was originally searching because it was in the turbo forum and I didn't think to look there. To figure out the gears, I actually counted teeth on all gears and compared them to the 78 manual specifications. They are definitely 78 style gears. Someone must have gotten a later main-shaft and put it in. I did re-use the nut with red loctite. I had to swap the 5th gear with one from a known 78 transmission. I also had to use the collar that goes under the needle bearings from the mystery transmission. When I tightened the main-shaft nut, it would bind against the fifth gear making the transmission behave as if 5th was engaged. I found a post at zcar.com outlining a similar problem: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=678847&t=678847#reply_678847 However, my fifth was not separating from the synchro collar as his was. The collar under the needle bearings was too short relative to the fifth gear assembly. The thrust washer should take the torque before the gear. I assume that this was due to use of mismatched parts. To remedy, I turned down the face of the thrust washer to the diameter of the collar for a distance of about .005 inches. This provided clearance between the fifth gear assembly and the thrust washer. I installed the transmission this weekend and, as of now, everything seems to be working fine. Sam

The 5-speed in my daily driver has bad counter-shaft bearings. I have a couple of extra 5-speeds from various parts cars (all 280Zs). I pulled one out of storage to rebuild. Since I didn't know which transmission it was, I counted the teeth on each gear and compared to the 1978 factory service manual. It was a perfect match for a 78 five speed. However, I thought it odd to figure out that the main-shaft nut was left-hand threaded when the service manual made no mention of that. I worked on the assumption that it is a 5 speed from a 78 and called http://www.drivetrain.com to order a rebuild kit. I explained the situation to the salesman (Brian) who was very helpful and helped me figure out the best kit to get. Believe it or not, it was a bearing kit with synchros for a 81-86 300ZX, part # BK104WS. Every bearing was a Nachi brand and fit in its respective place. The only difference was that the front counter-shaft bearing has a snap-ring groove (you can ignore it) and the kit has a small brass 5th gear synchro ring that you cannot use (the earlier 5-speeds and steel servo type synchros). The only needle bearings it has was for the input shaft. But the others usually do not need to be replaced. The total cost for the kit shipped was a hair over $160. After I dismantled and cleaned up the internal parts, I noticed small "dents" in the internal bearing surface of the 5th gear that were apparently caused by the needle bearings. No problem, I'll just grab that other transmission on the shelf and use the best parts from each... Well, I pulled that one down to find that the gears all "appear" to be that same (I haven't counted the teeth yet) but the main-shaft nut is right-hand thread and the thrust washer is located with a tiny ball bearing (the other had a small cylinder "pin"). I imagine that this transmission came form a 78. My question is: what transmission has the same ratios as a 78 but a left-hand main-shaft nut? If I get a good answer, I'll post what I found out about main-shaft nuts backing off, or at least my latest theory... Thanks, Sam

It can also bind if the bearings are not seated completly.

There is a whole 4 page chapter on it in this book: http://www.amazon.com/Turbochargers-HP49-Books-Spark-Ignition-Intercooling/dp/0895861356/sr=8-1/qid=1160072636/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0291725-4662342?ie=UTF8&s=books

Use a air hammer with a broad-faced chisel to pop off the washers.

My synchrowave 180SD does have HF start. It is used for all materials including steel. It also uses HF to stabilize the squarewave arc. I think the econotig has lift start. I know it doesn't have HF or squarewave. I have never used a machine without them, but I imagine it is a PITA. If you are only buying one machine, the main question is what will you realistically be welding. Sure the TIG can do it all. But if you are going to be doing a lot of body work, it sure is slow. Slow enough, that after I bought and tried to use my synchrowave, I bought a millermatic 135. The MIG is so much faster and easier to weld out of position. The TIG is easier if you can put the parts on a table.

Learn something new every day. It sure looks like my understanding was incomplete... Now I'm curious as to why... I don't make bets unless I'm certain I will take your money. I especially don't make bets when I certain you will take mine Sam

My understanding is that the heat range of a plug only affects the temperature of the center electrode and insulator. It does this by varying the amount of contact area and path that the heat has to travel through to get to the grounded portion of the plug. The ground electrode and outside threaded portion of the plug are the same regardless of the heat range and should be only slightly above the temperature of the head. I wonder if it is possible to have defective metallurgy in the plug or if you are a bit too lean on the top end.

Forrest is correct. That is a stock piece on the 78. I think it is supposed to shield the bushing from exhaust heat. Someone may have moved it to the other side. Although I have seen them on that side a few times as well on other cars. Maybe it is for something else, but definitely stock... Sam

I know this is an old post, but Forrest pointed it out to me... The best thing I did to cure the transition stumble was to use a smaller air corrector. You can find out where the transition to the mains should be by removing the jet blocks and driving in high gear to find the highest RPM that the engine runs. To find out when the mains come on, with the jet blocks in, get it at a RPM and stab the throttle down. It will surge due to the accelerator pump and then either keep going if the mains are on or die if the mains are not coming on at that RPM. Repeat at different RPMs to find out when the mains actuate. Then you can change the air to get the transition point right. Smaller air jet lowers the RPM when the mains come on. You can then tune the overall mixture with the main jet. No books I have ever read have this info like this. Check out the LM1 forums. there is a user called type26owner who has done a lot of experimenting. The most useful info I have been able to find for side-drafts has been at that site. FWIW, Sam

I agree. Get the LM1 first. I used one and it helped a lot. Sam

I have done a lot of reading on carbs as well. The stuff that type26owner has to say goes against alot of what I have read, but trying them brought me some better results. FWIW, Sam

You need to know more than just the main size. The choke (or main venturi) , auxiliary venturi, and air corrector jet sizes all influence the correct main size. The Delorto is very similar to the Webers DCOE and Mikuni PHH. Any reading you can do on these will help. A smaller venturi will create a stronger vacuum signal and require a smaller main. A smaller air corrector jet will let you run a smaller main and lowers the engine speed at which the main circuit comes on. There are some very good discussions on tuning DCOE style carbs on the LM1 forums. User type26owner has some interesting insights that allowed me to get my Mikunis running pretty good. I'm no expert and I still have a ways to go getting my engine tuned right, but you should check out the LM1 forums... http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3476&highlight=weber