G.I.jonas

Good call,also i would try to find someone that could teach me to be a ninja.

Jmortensen is right,you are basically doing a clutch slip in reverse,and regardless of what kind of clutch you use this is a bad thing,good clutches just hold power better it doesnt mean that they like being slipped better as well...cuz no clutch(or flywheel)likes that.

I wonder if these things have anyhting to do with it.

Its funny when people say that climate change is a myth lol.

Actually i'm not planning on bending any exhaust at all lol.Just stuff for my off road hobby-(shown below:razz:)- like bumpers and tire carriers and whatnot,also the cage in my datsun if i ever get back to it...damnit! Basically most things will be 1 1/2" dia and maybe some smaller stuff too which this thing will bend up in like 30 seconds. Sorry had to show off a bit:icon29:

It seems im looking at about $350-400 for materials,though i may spend more on the hydro cylinder itself.Dies are the same price for everyone so there is no escaping that one,but considering manual benders cost as much as i will have into this bender im not really going to worry.

LOL!!

These benders use the dies that i have seen used on manual benders and will bend a tube near 180 degrees without noticable deformation.These benders are meant for roll cage/tube chassis building. Most chassis or frame tube bending applications do not require a mandrel and even though the bend may appear stronger the outer wall of the tube is actually stretched thinner by the mandrel bending process(not ideal).If you want to make a cage,chassis or off road parts,this is the kind of bender you want,the difference in bend quality between these benders and the type you can get from harbor freight is dramatic at the very least.

Hey everyone,just want to let everyone know that i recently purchased a set of plans from GotTrikes.com for a air/hydraulic tubing bender.I paid $18 for the e-mailed plans and i have to say that although i havnt built it yet,i am extremely impressed with what i recieved,about 30 pages of well written instructions with cad diagrams and full scale drilling templates with every measurement down to the thousandth of an inch.You can build this bender for like $3-$400 and you end up with something you cant buy for less than like $2500.The build is somewhat of a project,not much for me but definately not for everyone.Heres a link below and i definately urge anyone with the need for a bender and the tools to make it not to wait,this si a great set of plans for a sweet bender...and please dont ask me to just e-mail a copy,ive been in trouble for copyright infringement before:cuss:

Well for one,not everyone wants to do something that has been done already 68 million times and is probably taking place 5 times per second somewhere in the world,and b,not everyone feels the need to build engines with efficiency numbers that call for their fuel pumps to be directly connected to a petrol refinery

Rofl!! your the most rediculouse dude ever.

Exactly-this made me wonder if this was just a hoax or something.How could everything attached to the rear just come undone so easily.Like you said where are the springs,lines,and i never could catch a shot of the driveshaft.??

Rofl!!!

My parts car had old dirty socks tied in knots to hold the hatch struts on the top.

I think you are definately on to something with using the subaru xt.Those cars may seem ugly to some but they are light,they had the best aerodynamics of there time(even covered door handles) and the power steering pump on them is already electric powered so thats just an easy bonus.Not to mention the fact that you can put an ea82 series dual range(high an low) transmission out of any gl or loyale from like 1985 to 89 in it and run fwd rwd or awd.Plenty of room under the hood,seats 4 and has a trunk,what more do you want.

Braap has taken the initiative already to tell all that needs to be known ever.

Rofl!!

. Its not a matter of setup,just saying that if you dont have any problems with your system and there isnt any air in the lines your brakes will lock,Think of locking as evidence of having done it right,not to say that you should do it all the time.

??? im a bit concerned here as your brakes SHOULD be able to lock.Also how can you say everything is done perfect and then after say that you say I know thread is 3 weeks old but you may need to look at those brakes still.

sweet thread!!

??? Wondering how a carbuerated engine can redline without the throttle being opened significantly.I must say your problem almost has to be something really drastic yet really simple i.e. your throttle being held open by something lol!!

I also cant belive you put that on lol!!. LOL!! How about "riceless"

I would say that that poor diff is officially butchered,its going to be funny some day when some dude takes the thing apart for a restoration not knowing what lies underneath.

I think its a bit of a stretch to call it even a stretch.Like comparing a unicycle to v-rod.

If i was going to do it i would definately be tig welding it to avoid getting all kinds of mig splatter and metel nuggets to have floating around in your gears.