amorfin

Are you sure? Because as far as I know they are not the same; the turbo transmission is much stronger.

I can tell you that changing VINs on cars is illegal and should not be done. That would be comparable to identity theft. If you or a friend is doing it don't discuss it in public forums

The Hondas that are fast are really rare. And I can't understand the other majority that proudly race their stock Hondas and Integras seriously thinking that they are really fast. I would guess it's just lack of education.

As far as I know the Kelley Blue Book has no pricing for 70s vehicles. The NADA does have pricing for classics, check this out: http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1974&m=1254&d=2212&c=7&vi=79044&da=1 If they want to totall it, deal for as close as you can for the 3,500 you paid (the NADA shows even more) for it plus keeping the car. I'm sure they are not interested on a salvage 260z.

So if the turbos are the problem... this should not occur with the N1s right?

I think it just depends on how much money you put in it. Do some research on R.I.P.S. Z, they have a supercar beater for about half the money.

You can search exact numbers by yourself (I mean it in a good way). But all you need to know is that the RB26 is heavier and can make more power than you need. The SR20 is lighter and can make all the power you need. I think for a DD the SR20 would be nicer, and closer to your budget. I would talk to McKinney about buying some parts, and maybe to some local shops about doing some other things, so it's easier for you. Spend the time doing your research before starting it. I hope you get the swap done.

$10k is about good to buy the engine and everything you need inside the engine bay to put it in and start it. You would have nothing left to pay for labor. And when you are done with that you will find out you need about another 10k for suspension, breaks, differential upgrade, and many other things that come up, unless you have all that taken care of already.

Hahaha this was a good one. Looks like we have a writer here... unless the girlfriend part of the story is real:violin:

A good tuning with the right turbos and fuel system upgrades should give you about 500whp with 400wtq on a RB26. I think that's enough for 10s on a Z that you can also drive on the street. I would think that an RB like this would pull harder on the top end than a V8 with 450whp/450wtq, so their 1/4 mile times should be about the same.

Has anyone installed this kit already?

I have a set of four IMSA flares from Showcars. Took me a while to get them. But just as I was getting ready to put them on a friend started making some other flares that I liked better, so decided to go with my friend's flares instead. Honestly, the flares from Showcars are not the best and are not ready to just put on and paint. You need to work on them a little bit. But if you would be interested on them anyways let me know, you can shoot me an offer.

If it's show car parts or some like that stay away from them! Let us know who they are. Also research about them before sending your money.

I know he has AZC brakes also. They are nice.

OS Ginken quoted me something like $10,000 or $11,000 for their block. It comes with all the internals, you jest need the head and turbos. They said you can only use their cluth with it, which is $2,500-$3,000. It's not really a bad idea if you have all that cash to spend

What's going on with this? Should I keep my hopes up or just let it go?

Hey getoffmyinternet, I would recommend researching a lot more before you go on with this project. What good are the mounts for a good price if they are not made to fit the RB in a S30? And depending on what you will do, if you go with a stand alone EMS you might not even need the MAFs. Research a lot or you'll end up spending a lot more money than needed. Just some friendly advice

WOW!!! With that engine you got nothing to envy from an RB26. I wish my RB26 looked that clean and shiny. Anyways great job and keep it going.

Any updated pictures?

The thing is that nismoparts.com made them really accessible. Their whole set is about 220 shipped, but those are brand new items. And sorry if I'm wrong... but to me it looks like if it actually is a front sump off a RB25DET.

Thanks Mark. I had already seen this and that is exactly what I was planning on doing. But as I said, last night I got this idea where with two simple cuts and welds at the right lengths on the RB25 oil pan, I would be able to just turn it around to where it clears the driveshaft but close enough to where I don't need to lengthen the RB20 pick up. Why do this? Well, I already have the front sump and after breaking my head for a while the modification seems pretty easy. So I might just try it to see if it works. I'll let you know what happens. I just need to find a place that can get the welding taken care of.

My RB26 came with a front sump from an RB25. I don't know how to weld, so the less welding the best for me. Last night after a while of taking measurements and getting ideas I realized that if I modify the oil pan to be kind of a rear-mid sump, I can use the RB20 oil pick up without the need of any modifications to it. And the oil pan will clear the drive shaft fine. So I was wondering if anyone has done this? And also, (this might be stupid but I will ask anyways) will the sump at this position have any negative effects? Thanks.

I have a nice and complete R33 wiring harness, ecu, and MAFs. If you liked what I have... would this be an even trade?

Mark Rolston's. My respect for him and his Z. He has a couple of threads, so search for them. His car was featured on Super Street some time ago. He also has his own page with all about his car.

May we ask why? Not happy with the SDS?