waddiejohn

Picture?

Rolling Parts, I forgot to ask. I've been out of aviation for a while now so forgive my ignorance. Is it a Cessna Tiger your flying??? A friend of mine that I used to go to the Reno Air Races with had a Grumman Tiger and it was a neat little plane. I'm wondering if Cessna bought the rights or something.

Doesn't it depend on where exactly the presure reading is taken? Immediatly adjacent to the skin the pressure is low and due to leaks in the structure I would think pressure inside the cabin would drop in an effort to equalize making cabin pressure slightly lower than atmosphere. As we get further from the skin we go through a gradient until pressure reaches atmosphere and I would think that pressure would peak at slightly higher than atmosphere just before that point is reached. Case in point is the pitot tube mounted in many cases under the wing three or so inches from the skin. Pressure is definately higher there than in the cabin. ?????????? Waddie

Whether you want your alternate static source in the cockpit or not isn't relative to his question I don't think, although that is where they are sometimes placed. As I understand PrOxLamus' confusion it had to do with the reference to high pressure outside the cabin. That would, I think, come from the pitot tube which is placed in and area of normally clean air movement away from the low pressure area of the aircraft skin and facing into the relative wind. It sounds like one of those FAA questions that may be technically misstated and you can only chose the "Most Nearly Correct" answer. Or am I missing something? Reading my own previous post I see that I made it sound as if all three instruments get high pressure air from the Pitot tube when it is only the air speed indicator that gets full impact air pressure. I probably should post earlier in the day when my brain is working better. Waddie

Went to my favorites too. Thanks for sharing!

The high pressure air outside the cabin is supplied through the pitot tube which gets full impact air pressure when the aircraft is in motion and going fast enough to be effective. The VSI, Airspeed Indicator and Altimeter all get feed from the pitot head. If it gets pluged the pressure is supplied from at static pressure port. Check out AC 65-15A. In other words, don't take my word for it, I've been known to be wrong sometimes. Waddie

Next time your mouth is on fire try eating some honey. As for the other you'll just have to experiment.

The ideal situation is combine the two and have a Hybrid Z.

A long long time ago I read an artical or instuction sheet for setting up a tach for a V8 to read correctly on a four banger and it involved placing a resister in line with something. I think the wire that ran from the distributor. I'd be interested in knowing for certain myself and will see if I can find it. I've got an old Sun brand tack that has a selector switch on the back for 4,6 and 8 cylinder engines, but I'm not sure I'd want to tear it apart to see how they do it.

Room Temperature Vulcanizing Silcone Sealer, AKA Form-A-Gasket. I like the red stuff, but see a lot of people use blue or black on engines. There are differences in the useable temp ranges and perhaps some other differences. Need to read the label. Have used the red, when properly certified to seal aircraft bulkheads on pressure cabins. Make a trip to the hardware or auto parts store and read the label or check out the McMaster-Carr catalog. Geez, I must have been half asleep when I made the above post. Sorry, I usually proof read stuff but guess I blew it on that one.

If you every get the chance to go to the Reno Air Races jump on it. The entire experience is awsome. When I was going "Dego Red" and " Tsunami " were arguably the prettiest planes there, but a Bearcat called "Rare Bear" kicked everyones butt most of the time. Tsunami finally went in with asymmetrical flaps killing the pilot and destroying the plane during the trip home from the races. If I remember right some of those engines ran seventy or eighty inches of boost. Counter rotating props didn't perform very well then and seemed to have reliability issues. We'd fly our Bellanca into Carson City and stay there then drive to Reno/Sparks for the race. We'd get to see the cars leaving Carson City for the Silver State Challange. The airshows between races were very exciting too. There is just nothing in this world like the sound of that Rolls Royce Merlin engine.

Could you have the pieces machined out of the casting after the Sawzall treatment and could a slide hammer be used while heat is applied around the outside of the casting instead of the Sawzall treatment.? Might have to heat both of the casting bosses at the same time and clean or sand the pin that is exposed between the bosses to make it work. I've not done this job so I'm unfamiliar but itlooks like it might work.

Carefull use of Exacto knife between head and valve cover. I used to RTV the valve cover and oil pan on my Super Vee and that was how I got I started the seperation. Maybe someone else will have a better idea.

I have used a mix of ATF and kerosene for cutting oil, But you can do the job without it. Since you broke the bolt off while tightening it, it is perfectly reasonable to think it may not be tight in the hole. If it isn't bottomed out then it should back out with reasonable ease. Try the screwdriver slot first. The cone shape I was refering to is actually an inverted cone or funnel shape that is cut by the center drill. If you look at an ENCO or Rutland Tool catalog you will see a picture of the drill I'm talking about. In the catalog they refer to them as " Combined Drills & Countersinks ". They are very ridgid and are used to start a hole in such a way as to prevent the drill from walking. I've used them to remove rivets from aircraft skin without enlarging the hole. They're great little tools. Just don't put a side load on the small drill part or you'll break it off in the hole. The 118 degree drill bit refers to a standard twist drill. The point is ground at an angle of 118 degrees included angle. I could just have said " Drill Bit ", but once I start writing about something a little bit technical I can get anal sometimes. Sorry about that. It comes from writing work instructions for semi-conductor assembly staff. Left hand cut drills are neat too. A lot of times it will unscrew the bolt for you as you are drilling if it isn't corroded or tight against the bottom of the hole. I've never cared much for Easy Outs, but do use them on occasion. I have also drilled a hole in the screw and used a three sided burr knife to unscrew a broken bolt or screw. It all depends on it's location or access, material and how tight the screw is in the hole. One more thing. I use " Opti-Visors " with a #5 lens when doing this kind of stuff. It really helps me to see when I've got my center located and I can see if my drill is flexing. Sorry to be so windy, but don't know any other way to relay the info. Good luck. Waddie

You know, you never said if you broke the bolt while tightening it or trying to remove it. If you broke it while tightening it the remainder of the bolt could be relatively loose in it's hole. Under those circumstances a Dremel tool with cut-off wheel might be used to cut a slot in the bolt and back it out with a screwdriver. That of course would be contingent on the bolt not bottoming in the hole.

I bought one of those at a truck stop in Tucson. About the same price too. Maybe I'll get around to installing it someday soon.

Geez, stuff keeps popping into my head that I do without thinking about it. Getting old I guess. I like to use Tap Magic or cutting oil once I get my hole started.

Oh, I almost forgot. Don't use a lot of force against the drill. Use sharp drills of good quality and let it do the cutting and don't run your drill too fast.

I like to start with a #1 center drill. You have to eyeball the center of the bolt for the punch and as you're drilling with the center drill you can make small corrections to get it centered dead nuts on. Corrections have to be made very early in the drilling process so that you don't snap the tip of the cemter drill off in the hole you're drilling. If you don't get it centered just right the first time you can follow up with a #2 then #3 if necessary. Once the cone shape is established you can use a standard 118 degree twist drill to cut through to the bottom. A little practice and you can drill to the minor thread diameter then just pull the threads out with tweezers or needle nose pliers. That's just how I do it. Can't say it's any better than anyone elses method, but I've nearly made a career out of it working with new engineers that are in a hurry and ladies that don't understand torque.

Heating the hubs is a good way of going, but I'd figure a way to chill the studs before I knocked them out. Some dry ice on the head or something like that. You could place and old socket or piece of steel tube over the studs to act as a shield and heat the area around the stud with a small torch then tap it out as well. Just an idea.

Might want to do a leak down test.

Happy Birthday. Neat gal you have there.

The Fox body Mustangs have a really neat part to shut down the fuel pump in event of a crash.

My idler pulley was on top but I still had the problem. Those old add on kits had mounting brackets that looked like they came out of some shop down the alley and I think they made them mount too low. Sounds like ONT240 got lucky or someone mod'd his mount. Clearance for the hose was a common problem.

When I bought my 71, 240 it ran fine so I just drove it until the engine started pumping oil one night. I replaced the engine with one from a 280 and when I pulled the distributer to place in the 280 engine I found that the plug wires were all one hole off. Seems the previous owner had installed the distributor one or two teeth off the proper setting. Might look into that. I also bought a 54 Ford truck that a "Master Mechanic" had rebuilt but couldn't get it running again. It took me weeks of fiddling with to fix. Same symtoms as your "Z". Popping through the carb and backfiring out the exhaust. I finally found the wire going to the points had broken insulation where it passed through the distributor housing and was shorting the ground. I replaced the wire and drove the old truck for a long time after that. Don't know if it would apply to your situation, but it might be worth looking into.