ToplessZ

Good luck on the sale. Looks very nice for the money. With a weekend of body work and a paint job someone could have a killer z. Wish I had the cash. My project would be gone in a second.

Congrats on getting the z out and about. Hows the body work progressing. I know you had alot to do initially. Its all worth it when you get to drive that hunk of driveway decor eh

Boy do I like those honduh's uhh headlights uhh whats that red thing standing next to the sexy crx???

Man for that pile I could have a set of afr's now these may be good but not that good. Yipes. The old style vortecs have the bang for the buck these just have the bang for a lot of bucks. Everyone provides the latter.

Wow that is very impressive. To make note of the high price of used differentials I think that the new lsd units available from nismo and reider racing for around 600 dollars is a very good deal compared to a 600 dollar used unit or a 1600 quaife unit. I wonder if welding the gears on a non lsd unit would have the same effect on straight line performance (yes I know about how crappy they are for street driving)

OH wait its the porsche thats red...still under 50 in the z is against the law.

I dont see how bending the shifter would help much. Aren't shift boots mostly universal. I actualy had one made up for my last car to disguise an auto trans. Looked trick

Ed I would replace the Thermostat. Ive had 2 faulty ones in a row. Refer to juans post above to see what happens when the coolant does not stay in the radiator long enough to cool. Are your fans pulling or pushing. Also you only need about a 30/70 coolant/water mix if you are in a warm climate. The 30% coolant is just so your coolant system stays lubed and doesnt corrode. You can run straight water with an addative such as the redline product which reduces temps and lubricates the coolant system. Then you dont need any antifreeze. Oh yeah your biggest problem is under 50 mph in a red z is just not allowed

Hold on a sec. from what Im reading it will bolt onto a ka bell housing or SR so it should bolt in with little modifications on a sr20 powered vehicle. One more reason to have the sr20det swap I wonder what it would take to adapt it to our old l6's

I emailed them. Id love to have one even though I know they will never be reproduced. I havn't heard the latest but board member turboblue streak was making a dohc head but splicing 2 ka24de heads from a 240sx or altima. Looked promising but like I said haven't heard anything.

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=search

https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/OrderingBooks.html

better hurry with those pics or we will have to send out spies.

check out these sites for some nice wheels. http://www.rdmwheels.com/enkei/PK6.htm look at their other wheels. Note some of their volk wheels are available in wider sizes. also check out http://www.gruppe-s.com/SSR/SSREvolution.htm look at their wheels. They say other sizes available through custom order. Thats just a start. I have other ones that i just found using a simple google search. Also look at the billet website. They have five spoke wheels in five lug that look sweet. To get the racing look get their smooth lip option and have the centers professionally painted or powdercoated. I have seen it done on 300 thousand dollar customs. (no exaggeration) If you want cheaper look at the 17x10.5 mustang wheels. 17x9 in front and 17x10.5 rear still going to have to do the five lug conversion and run a 1.00-1.5 spacer in the rear. Lots of guys doing that and putting 400 plus hp through them though. Heck porsche guys put 600+ hp through 2 inch spacers all the time. Do a search on that subject. Good luck

Can anyone recommend a shop in Ohio. Still waiting although I know most of you dont live around here. I called a couple of places but they didnt seem to think that the l6 head was any different than the other ones they do. Id prefer a 5 angle valve job. I was thinking about reconditioned rocker arms and new springs. Is that a bad idea? Trying to get as much info ahead of time as possible. Thanks Jared

I dont know im pretty nervous about this shop its quite the hole in the wall. Id like to have it setup or close to it when I get it back. I dont have the tools to take it apart and put it back together. I gues Ill check around the big city unless anyone has any recommendations

Hey guys. I have a P90 head that I need rebuilt. Valve job etc. I dont need any port work or anything but I want to send it to a decent shop. Thing is I am on a very slim budget. The local shop with bead blast, hot tank, Deck if needed, and do a 3 angle valve job. Im not sure if I trust them to do my datsun head or not though. I live in small town in ohio. Does anyone know anywhere in ohio or close to it that does inexpensive, reputable, headwork? Id be willing to ship the head if I could get the work done cheaply. The local shop quoted my 140 for above mentioned service. Is there anything else I should have done to it while I have it apart that wouldn't cost a ton? Trying to get my motor put together in a reliable budget oriented fashion.

That auction is just for the flange. Do I need the other piece that is in the picture and is there a viable option for a cheap wastegate actuator? Trying to see if I can get one of those turbos for around 250 because he has alot of them for sale. If I did that I could have the whole setup for 400 or less. Would like to hear some more input as Im not very knowledgable on this subject.

so do you think the one on ebay is a good deal. You meant that it requires the ford style wastegate flapper? It looked like a good buy for a new turbo to me and I believe it said ball bearing?

Well Im pretty low on funds and I need to replace the turbo on my pretty much stock setup. I would like to upgrade but i need something in about this price range. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908943387&category=33742 Does anyone think that would be a viable upgrade over the stock turbo. My other option is to just rebuild the stock turbo. Any other really low cost options out there?

Thanks dcarrow. Thats more what I was looking for. I didn't know for sure if there were completly open track events where I could run this setup or not. Its mostly gonna be a nice weather cruiser but I wanted to be sure I could take it out to the track and throttle on it occasionally. Not really peticular about what class etc. Just would hate to see a pretty car go to waste

yeah jamie where's the pics. Im curious what that looks like myself.

keep me posted zrossa

Thanks guys. Anyone know where to get these rules. Are they posted anywhere. I just want to make sure I can have fun with the car. Not worried about scuffs its gonna be a streeter beater. I think this will look cool. Its gonna be a pretty low ride so getting in an out shouldnt be too bad

Ok im a newbie to the racing facet of z cars. Here are my thoughts. I Have a convertible z nothing fancy but in pretty good shape. I dont want to mess with much body work just want to drive it. I had a thought that seems like a good idea. Since it is a convertible (roadster no top) would I be allowed to weld the doors shut all the way around it would allow them to be aligned perfectly. Provide quite a bit of support to the unibody and eliminate having to worry about weather stripping etc. What do you guys think am I nuts? I also plan on installing the auto power or similar 4 point rollcage. I think it would be cool kinda like the old model T and Model A roadsters. Alot of the old racers welded thier doors shut on those?