capt_furious

So, how'd it go?

I'm thinking that's a joke, guys. ...I'm hoping it is, anyway...ZG flares with the original hubcaps and wheels / tires?

Preventing a member from starting a new topic until they've been on the site and jump through a few hoops might curtail this stuff. ...but let's not scare him off. TR's answer is right. No 'kit' is needed, per se. I'm running that exact setup. nbutenhoff, there's a massive wealth of information on this site that's built up going back almost 7 years. You're bound to find the answer to most of your questions by using the search feature.

Yeeeeessh. It's the automotive equivalent of chopper flop! The springs aren't even making contact with the upper perches! Looks as if he hit the oil or trans pan on something and tore it open.

I've searched and not found much detailed information. I know a few people here are running this pump and I'd appreciate some input. I'd like to install one of these as a primary pump for my '74 260 with SUs and an L28. I'm hoping to solve my fuel delivery issues - the current stock replacement electrical pump was never meant as a primary, just a pusher to the stock mechanical at the block. I've considered the option of going back to a mechanical in combination with the current electric pusher. However, I'm a little wary of doing so as I've had the mechanical pumps fail in the past and spray the engine bay with fuel. My plan is to run new wiring with a relay on an ignition switched signal and a hidden kill switch. Summit offers the pump and a Painless wiring harness for what I consider to be a reasonable price. I'm assuming I'll need to install an adjustable regulator to keep the pressure around 5 psi. My dilemma is how to mount this pump. There is a bracket next to the tank for the stock pump, but the confines back there are pretty tight and I'm not sure I could mount it without needing fabrication beyond my current resources. I've got very limited time - my weekends start Friday night and end Sunday night - I have to have the car running / driving by early Monday morning in time to drive 60 miles to work from home. Such are the circumstances of my current job. I have no garage, and just basic tools. I'd like some advice on how exactly to set the pump up and avoid cavitation, starvation from improper positioning, fuel line lengths, diameters, so forth. I have to admit my experience with fuel systems is limited. This site has offered some insight into the setup, but doesn't offer much in the way of photos or instructions. I'm open to alternatives.

Still having issues, not as bad as they used to be. Primary problem(hesitation / dying from a dead stop) was solved, I'd just neglected the oil in the carbs...DUH. I'm pretty sure my fuel pump isn't up to snuff. I'm going to try replacing it with a Carter GP4070, my primary concern right now is where to mount the thing and running wiring for it. I'm hoping to do this next weekend.

Starion / Conquest with the Mopar Action Green Brick motor; a Ray Barton built 340 stroker(396, I think) with DPFI. That engine has been put in that chassis successfully before. I'd like to see how well one of the new Hemis would fit in a '37 Plymouth business coupe. AC, cruise control, 300+ horsepower and a nice, no-nonsense clean depression era body wrapped around it. Restore everything to stock and run the exhaust out the back with resonators and hidden tips, it'll end up really quiet and have that odd rasp from the era. Put electric cutouts just rear of the x-pipe when you need to get on it and make some noise. Replace the front end with a new subframe assembly, go coil-overs all around and 4-link in the rear with a Dana 60 and Sure-Grip. Hide a rollbar behind the B-pillar, or even integrate it into the body and hide it under the trim. Not as difficult as it sounds. Lotus Elite or Elan type 26 with a turbo'd Miata or Ford Zetec drivetrain. FUN!

'49 to '53 Buick Roadmaster or Riviera. The 4 portholes(Buick actually branded them 'ventiports') in the fender are a dead giveaway. The lower end Buicks only had three.

Looks like the Ohlone ZONC show. Pretty sure that's local.

Hrm...my L28 isn't stock, but there are no internal changes, just bolt-on stuff; N36 intakes (original to the car, kept them from the flattop setup), SUs, twice pipes. I don't think I've ever experienced valve float, so I wouldn't know what to look for. I just know that approaching 6k, the engine SCREAMS and I'm afraid to push it any further. It's not a good idea to push your daily driver that hard.

We did. Switch #1 down, #2 up. Idles right around 1k when it's completely warmed up. Idle set screw is all the way out, should be at around 850. Yeah, it runs out of power and gets a bit rough approaching 6k. You're right, it's not a pessimistic aftermarket tach, it's an optimistic factory tach! At 5500, that L28 sounds like a buzzsaw on crack. It's wild. Side note, just saw an R8 for the first time tonight. Looks much better in person than in photos. I've always thought they were ugly, 'til I had an up close look.

I just finished installing my Autometer tach into the stock gauge pod...even sits behind the stock lens, just like the original. Brand new tach, it's this model. I configured and installed it exactly according to the instructions, even tested it prior to installation using clip leads. My stock tach hasn't worked since I bought the car, so I've been playing it by ear. I guess I'm either not used to an engine revving as high as the L28 does, or this tach is off by a couple grand. I find myself shifting when I wind it out at around 5500 indicated...that's where I'm used to doing it. It sounds / feels as if it's going to hurt something if I go higher. However, the stock tach out of a 280 goes yellow at 6500 and doesn't go red until 7000. Is my tach off? Should I really be worried, or should I wind it out and enjoy? Do twice pipes make an L series sound as if it's revving higher(they sure are frickin' LOUD)?

They'd sell those like hotcakes if they'd make them affordable for mere mortals.

Springs settle after a while. Wait a week or two. Suspension Techniques used to make blue springs, and MSA sells blue springs as well. More than likely you've got one of these. If they're still high, it's fine to lop off coils with an angle grinder, just don't let the heat get too high while doing it. This might be useful: Ignore the source, it's the info you need.

It's an epidemic. Don't get too close, you may catch it.

Buncha mid-September birthdays 'round here. Happy belated!

Happy belated boit-day, Ron! Thanks to you and Roostmonkey my diff is ROCK SOLID mounted in place. 'tis a day that warrants celebration.

I've had all manner of screwy fuel pressure issues for the last year or so, putting an inline FP gauge in before the carbs and after the pump really helped diagnose things. Make sure to check your fuel pump out, as well.

LAWL. I'm sure you've done far more than that. I think this is my first 'help me' post that was actually resolved in less than 48 hours and $50.

BRAAP got it. Fiddling with the fuses brought it right back to full brightness. Thanks! I love easy, quick solutions to a seemingly complex problem.

You either love or hate Raymond Lowey's post-WWII work. Never been a fan. On the other hand, one of his proteges, Milt Antonick, penned a design I think is flat-out sexy:

Out of the blue last night, my driver's side headlight dimmed to about 1/2 its normal output. Initial guess is the bulb is dying, but is there a known issue that would cause this? I've checked all of the connections I can get at without tools.

Liking this very uch, since every other bumper I've read about has had serious fit / finish issues. Shipping - if I were there, you could give me a utility knife, a 4' wide roll of 1" bubble wrap, a tape gun, and a 4'x8' flat of cardboard, and I'd build a box template in less than half an hour for you, which would be gorilla-proof after wrapping the bumper in the bubble wrap. Used to do that a LOT. One prototype box and you'd just lay it out, trace, cut, wrap, tape, ship.

This.

aux doesn't have an Obrez. No joking, no wink wink nudge. Doesn't have one. That said, it's not like shoving a *insert mountain motor here* into a Z, it's like docking 6 feet off of a '71 Caddy Sedan DeVille with a 472 under the hood!