capt_furious

Has it flipped out and killed anyone yet? ...actually, you wouldn't know, would you? It probably slips out at night while you're dead asleep.

The stopping on the onramp thing astounds me. Onramps are long and at a shallow angle relative to the other lanes for a good reason - you're supposed to match your speed to the traffic. Evidently, very large portions of the population missed this point in whatever driving instruction they received. If most people don't stop, they're still merging at a severely deficient speed. I can't count the number of people I've been behind that insist on merging at 45 mph when traffic is screaming by at 70+.

IoE was won by a Citroen DS at Sears Point. There were a couple of S30s there, but not the one pictured. That's probably from the recent Texas race. Someone on here is fielding an S30, Tony, didn't you have something to do with that?

Okay, I think I figured it out. The dashpots are leaking excessively. I just added oil to them and the car drove great. When I add oil, it will leak down into the intake. I think the oil is leaking out over a number of days. Is there a quick fix for this? Just a set of gaskets, perhaps?

My Z has been getting progressively worse over the last month or so. Sputtering under load, stalling, cutting out under throttle application off idle, backfiring...I thought it was the ignition(which is a hacked-in Chrysler electronic ignition setup), but now I'm turning a stinkeye on the carbs(4-screw SUs). The carbs passed some basic tests, but I still suspect them for a few reasons - different resistance rates, dies when you raise the pistons, etc. I'm toying with the idea of a ZX distributor and the little E12-80 'brain box'. However, the original wiring is such a mess, I'm not really sure where to start. I'm not even sure it's the ignition any more. I could really use some help from someone local who knows these cars inside and out. If I have to pay them, I will. I'm in the Fairfield / Vacaville / Suisun, CA area.

This has a pretty good amount of information: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001202.html Essentially, it's for sealing connections, not improving them. The very definition of 'dielectric' is non-conductive.

Where there's smoke, there's fire. I'd put good money on him being a repeat offender. Collect as much evidence as you can, be absolutely sure that you have no doubt whatsoever that you can prove it's your phone. Go to the local PD - don't call them - go to the department that handles theft, and talk to a detective DIRECTLY. Sit down with them and explain everything you did to us. Bring pictures, phone bills, the works. Chances are, the detective will be thankful for such an easy bust dropped into his lap, and the firearm in the waistband might just set some serious wheels in motion. If the guy has a record and is a prohibited person in possession of a firearm, it's HRET time. GO GIT 'EM!

I've been having problems with the bullet connectors on my electronic ignition module corroding and causing the car to cut out. I cleaned the terminals, crimped the connectors a bit... ...and spread some dielectric grease on them. Now, somewhere in the back of my mind I KNEW this stuff wasn't conductive, but I was convinced I was doing the right thing at the time. Hey, you put it on spark plug boots to prevent corrosion, right? Yeah, you put it on SPARK PLUG BOOTS, not the metal connectors themselves. I made it into work Monday morning, just as I'm pulling through the gate(Travis AFB), the car dies and refuses to restart. I leave the car in the nearest parking lot, hitch a ride, and get back to it in the evening. Car ran fine back home. I took it for a spin a bit after fiddling with it, ran okay, so I took it to work the next day. Same story...ran fine, then died. Got it restarted and it proceeded to run like crap. I've been tearing away at it during the last two evenings, and I start looking for plug gap info, since I figured plugs might help - on the same page I find L28 plug gap info, I find a warning to not put dielectric grease on electrical connections because that's not what it was meant for. BINGO! I'd put that stuff on all the contacts of the new dist. cap, on the plug wire connectors going into the cap, and on all of the pin and bullet connectors on the electronic ignition module. About an hour of removing all of that crud with some carb cleaner, q-tips and an air compressor, the car runs GREAT. New cap, rotor, re-gapped distributor pickup, clean contacts, new ballast resistor, new plugs...I more or less gave it a tune up. So, yeah. Use this stuff for what it was meant for. DON'T PUT IT ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS. Use it as a barrier against the elements to protect connections.

It's authoritative.

Hah, no, thankfully! Those 'other' KC-10 guys have it rough. And thanks!

Believe half of what you see and none of what you hear. Never date a woman with a tattoo of a dagger on her arm. Blonde = dumb, brunette = fun, red = murderous. Choose wisely. Always replace the cheapest part first when troubleshooting, then proceed by ascending price. A carelessly planned project will take three times as long as originally estimated to complete. Carefully planned projects, on the other hand, will only take twice as long. If something becomes to powerful, organize it into a committee. It will thereby become completely inept and therefore harmless. I am a meat popsicle.

KC-10 Crew chief. Reenactor. Actor. ...that was a History Channel shoot. I play with airplanes. Uncle Sam happens to pay me to do it!

You can fix stupid. It's fatal, though.

Alfa was using them prior to the '20s. By 1925 they had standardized on DOHC and hemi heads across the product line.

Alfa Romeo; hemispherical combustion chambers and overhead cams. Nash; first practical and inexpensive production air conditioning on the '54 Ambassador - Packard did it in 1939, but it was cumbersome and expensive. Chrysler; First modern solenoid cruise control in 1958 on the Imperial. British Motor Corporation: Transverse front engine, front wheel drive in the 1959 Mini. - whoops, MAG58 got me on this one.

BRAAP has a dad? I figured he sprung from the head of Zeus or something...

Why do people who perpetuate stereotypes never realize exactly what they're doing? That...THING...would have been hot stuff to a lot of people 10 years ago.

I always thought most newer Astons - especially the Vantage - look the way the Z should had the design been done properly. Granted, they're considerably larger than an S30, but they look pretty close.

Ah-HAH! I was hoping we'd see production for the pieces used on the SDI car. It seems the aero modifications on that car were very well thought out. ...and nice Thunderjet 500s. My dad has that tow truck and stakebed.

Yeah, 'optimum' is the wrong word to use. Sorry, getting ahead of myself on that. I should say, why not look toward what was found with regard to spoilers, which leaned toward that angle and height, and adjust appropriately.

Indeed. That's my issue with this spoiler. I REALLY like it, but it's just a dress-up piece. If we're going to redesign it, it should follow the findings of the extensive aerodynamic research HybridZ put together. Otherwise, what'd we do it for? Not trying to pick a fight here, just making a point. I believe the optimum spoiler shape was found to be 30 degrees from horizontal and 6 1/2" in height. This is a good-looking spoiler and the only thing keeping me from buying it is the aerodynamic shortcomings.

I need a towel.

I ever tell you guys that I own a ketchup company?

...said the guy who used to have a license plate frame that said 'Factory stripes add horsepower'. On a Neon R/T. I was really expecting a root beer metallic brown van with a diamond appliqued rear window and an airbrushed nature scene on the side.

Hork!