TravRMK

http://www.weldingsupplyco.com/72.html Here are some arc welding electrodes that are made for welding cast Iron, The 72 , and the 77. They also have some videos of them welding up a cracked cast truck manifold.

Nice update! Can't wait to see another one.

I'm not too sure on that. I have never mixed different resin systems. On a cured part, it souldn't be a problem. I've fixed parts that were originally made with Polyester, with epoxy, and all worked out well. I would bet that epoxy on Polyester would work. Your best bet would be to do a small test, preferably not on your part, just a scrap.

Partially correct, for polyester resin anyway. If using polyester resin, on your last coat, you need to add a Surface agent to the resin/hardener mix (a styrene wax solution used to cause polyester, and vinyl ester resin and gel coats to cure tack free). If you don't add this to your final resin coat, it will not fully cure, and will remain tacky, and won't be sandable. If you are using an epoxy resin system, then there is no need for a surface agent, as it will fully cure on its own. I prefer epoxy because it doesn't stink as bad, and it is stronger.

OK, that is officially too much POWER for the street! Didn't know it was possible. He definitely needs wheelie bars, or some narrower tires. WOW!

How thick does the filler need to be? Tiger hair, is good if it needs to be a little thick, and kitty hair is good if it isn't as thick, then top it with a metal glaze after you sand it smooth.

You will need an o-ring fuel rail. I believe they run +-$100.

Wow, those look great! Phil, your Z is really starting to look SWEET! I love it!

One thing I do to help hold the keepers on the valve, is put a dab of straight STP oil treatment on them. Makes them kind of sticky. Nice video!

No need to purchase a j pipe if you are going to have an intercooler.

Hard to believe how clean that is. WOW!

I would tend to think that those 40mm carbs would be a bit on the small side for that cam.

A 50 or 75 shot of nitrous is pretty small. The stock internals are forged parts, except the pistons which are cast. At any rate it will hold up as long as your nitrous/fuel mixture is correct.

nice video. I liked the music, with the engine sounds here and there. Way to go!

Looks nice.

You can get them from rota, also here http://www.18racing.com/wheel_rb.html

Another vote for the Odyssey. We have an 04 Honda Odyssey and it is much better than the Grand Caravan we had before it. That Dodge sucked, and was nothing but trouble! The Honda was our favorite Whe we were looking for a new one. The traction control system works well in the winter too.

Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? I know that he uses one, maybe a rising rate one?? I haven't talked to him in about a year, or seen his sled in that long. I bet it is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. You could use one, and set it to keep about 3 psi or so above boost pressure to keep adequate fuel. As for timing, it varys greatly from engine to engine, I am not sure how much yours has at what rpm's. I think he left his stock. I know he runs race fuel through it, and always has a few 55 gallon drums of it at his shop.

No fuel reversion problems that I am aware of. I don't think it can. I believe there is an internal check valve. not to mention the needle and seat. IF the lines are open than fuel is being introduced to the float bowl. If it is closed no fuel can go through the needle seat area. There are a few power jet disigns out there, but the Jack harris ones are the best. Especially for turbo apps. There is a contact number at the top right hand side of the instructions sheet posted above.

One other thing, make sure you double up each pipe spring (two springs everywhere there was one). Do you have any EGT guages? If not, you may want to try and find some, as the learning curve is huge, and pistons melt pretty easy. Also what are you going to do for clutching? I assume you know that what was in there before isn't going to cut it with boost.

I would look into the power jets, they are simple and effective. To add or subtract fuel is as easy as turning a knob. See attatched instructions. Most of the added fuel is added through the main jet because of the added pressure in the bowl, and any additional through the power jet. I think you will need to tap into your carb cap to keep the engine from hanging while under boost. A stiffer spring would not help as much, and since the pressure on the top of the slide would be equal to the underside it acts as if naturaly aspirated. You DO NOT want your sled to keep going when you need to stop, or let off! If you look closely at the picture of the cat turbo below you can see the 1/8" lines tapped into the top of the carbs that come from the pressurized airbox.

Head looks unported to me.

I believe on the older carbed sleds they ran a boost activated hobbs switch that powered an electric fuel pump that went to a couple of power jets. Todays EFI powered sleds are much easier as you can buy programable EFI boxes and use the stock injectors for added fuel. Before that I remember them talking about running pressure to the float bowl, and to the top of the slides, they found out that under boost the throttle didn't want to close, so they pressurized the top of the slide as well. The power jets was a better setup.

You probably have an auto console. The auto, and the manual consoles are a bit different.

One other thing, All modern high performance two strokes use reed valves on the intake. Ski Doo (older Rotax engines) were the only ones that used the rotary valve. Turbos don't care about the reeds. Stiffer ones are necessary for higher boost though. You can buy stiffer carbon fiber ones these days, but in the 80's when my Uncle started messing with turbo sleds they just stacked two sets of reeds. Trimming the second set for the desired stiffness.