TravRMK

OK, in a nutshell this is how a tuned pipe on a two stroke works in laymans terms. There is more to it but this is just so you can understand the principles. First the pipe is made up of several parts, and altering any of these will change the power output, as well as the powerband. The header(the part that bolts to the cylinder) The diffuser (taper towards the belly), the belly (the fat part of the pipe), the reflector(the taperd cone part at the end of the belly), the stinger (the small pipe at the end of the cone that goes to the muffler). The tuned pipe opperates on sound, and pressure waves. sice the engine has no valves, just ports in the cylinder walls, there is some unburnt fuel that exits the exhaust ports into the pipe with the exhaust, but the unburnt part exits after the burnt fuel. when the exhaust hits the reflector(cone) it pushes back, forcing all the unburnt fuel back into the cylinder just before the piston closes the exhaust port craeting a supercharging type of effect. They are tuned for opperating temperatures. Generally snomobile exhaust is tuned for a certain RPM (narrow) because they opperate in a narrow band well (CVT transmission), and more power is attainable this way, and with the CVT there are not many drivability concerns.

Anyone know what the extra pieces on the 280's are? I have an early 260, and was just going to get the 240Z kit, anyone know of any differences? Car was made 12/73. Everything else is 240Z size and not the later 260/280.

Why not mount it below the bumper on the left side, just in front of that HUGE air cleaner?

with a 04 offset you should be fine, that is only 4mm more offset that the original. And 7.5" seem to fit nice without much hassle. A 1" spacer would most likely have some fender clearance issues.

I belong to another online forum for snowmobiles. My sled doesn't have a turbo, but it has nitrous oxide injection. Some people think that nitrous will blow up a two stroke, and won't work like it does on a 4. Here are a couple of pictures from that forum of a few of the hundreds I know of. Some of them are self lubed, and others use automotive turbos with an electric oil pump, and a small oil tank, from T3's to evo takeoffs, GT28's etc. There are alot of turbo four stroke yamaha Apex's, and RX-1's also (they have an engine similar to the Yamaha R1 bike) Alot of them are pushing 250-400hp.

Turbos flat out work on two strokes! Snowmobiling is one of my passions, and while my sled isn't turbocharged, I know several people, including my uncle who own turbo two stroke sleds. The engine design is totaly different than a four stroke, and you can't think that what applies to a four cycle will apply to a two. The pipe on a performance two stroke is verry important to the power, how much, and where in the rpm range it is created. I won't get into the design of pipes, but I will say, that there have been some missinformation in this thread about them, and the two cycle engine. My uncles 700cc Polaris twin cylinder two stroke makes 250 horsepower, and is scary powerful. His stock NA engine made 127.5. They work, and work well. It is a bit more complicated than a 4 stroke though.

The 75-80 L28's (N42 block) have dished pistons stock. The 81-83 non turbo (F54 block) have flat top pistons.

Also the L26 has the same crank and rods that the L28 does.

That is mostly for the flattop pistons used in the later NA F54 block L28 (81-83) The earlier L28's have esentially the same pistons as the turbo motors with the 81-83 turbo's having slightly larger ring lands than the early l28 dished pistons.

nice car! Looks to be in great shape!

As many have said, the stock pistons are dished on the NA motors untill 81 when the f54 blocks got the flat tops. There have been many people turbo the NA motors. I will be turboing my N42 block.

Nice! I love what you have done. Speachless!

Here you go. http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=59635P&line=DET

Nice work!

What offset are those? Will they clear the fenders , and not require spacers?

You are right, the gun weighs 36 pounds without the scope, and all the weight is in the barrel, so it is extremely front heavy. Off hand shooting is almost impossible. Once you get it up I can only hold it for a few seconds before it gets too heavy to hold still. And yes the covers are on the scope. One end is clear, and the other is yellow, as someone already said.

Here I am.

I vote NO on fog light proposition 1! I think it looks soo much better now without those monster lights in there, and the 240 front. Just an opinion though.

That is the firat time I have seen anything like that! WOW!

Man I love the look of those coils on the L engine! I wouldn't mind running wasted spark, since each cylinder would have its own coil, and not sharing with the wasted cylinder. I believe that is the only way to run it with megasquirt, since 6 cyl is not supported in sequential. At least that is how I understand it.

The engine bay is coated with a tough bedliner material, and that is why it is all rough. This paint lays down nice, and doesn't need any wet sanding when done. Just paint, let dry, done!

PPG Omni MAE, is pretty cheap and made for automobiles. I just bought a gallon, with a quarrt of hardener, and a gallon of reducer, and it was less then $200 at the local auto paint store. I will be using it on an old truck project that I am working on. I will be selling it when I'm done. Then the Z will be getting painted. I just shot the interior, and the door jambs. It looks pretty good for a single stage.

I would love a Wolf V500, but the price difference between the Wolf and the megasquirt is quite large for my limited budget. If it were only a few hundred difference I would get the Wolf, but it is over a thousand dollars difference. I would also like to use the truck plugs from the 6.0 with the igniters on the coils.

I have seen pictures of these coils on L's, and have searched. Some posts were eluding that you should be able to use an edis-6 setup (36-1 wheel, vr sensor, and module) and wire the coils in pairs to run wasted spark. How did you do this? Or, are you running something other than edis? Thanks.

So, what is the trick to getting them off without breaking/bending anything? I will be putting them back on after body/paint work.