rayaapp2

Let me post my un-educated results with the same setup. P90 head Flat top F54 motor with 180K miles MLS head gasket .9mm No intercooler! 23* BTDC RCengineering 500cc injectors 248LPH fuel pump fuel pressure set at 55psi/70psi JSK fuel rail barbed NGK copper core heat range 8(2 steps colder) gapped at .032"-.035" 'A' cam And a worked over VAFM. @16lbs of boost I had no detectable detonation audibly or at the stock det sensor(which I feel is a low res sensor anyway). The car was driven for 3 years like this and hard. I went to 18PSI! and the engines life ended a few weeks later after a failure of the 81 turbo CAS. It decided to go haywire(on heat soak) and shoot my timing all over the place. Before I lost the CAS I discovered I needed more retard than the ECCS system could give me at 21*. After a taredown I found stress cracks on the #6 pistons skirts and I lost the ring lands on #6... Only. This was a back yard job though. Everything cost me $1000 in total to build that car. I just wanted to see how far I could go. I found the limit with my equipment. Mind you I did have a nice array of tools at my disposal for tuning it. Definitely not the tools you will find in any garage mechanics hands. To this day I toss those 81 turbo CAS's in the dumpster. Heat soaking them is their downfall and their location is just asking for that to happen. It was a fun car. I have not had too many cars I could abuse like that one. Try fith gear drop launches. 195/50R15 tires burn right off! With the tune and archaic turbo the boost came on like a light switch around 2800rpm. I cannot tell you what the differences are between the 2 builds here claiming 14ish BTDC base timings and mine, but Id say we did something different. With this setup I found that over-fueling was the answer to any detonation. Pig rich AFR's. I doubt it was a long term 100K mile setup, but I built the car like a track car and expected to go through a motor or 2.

Once I cleaned those screens I have had no further issues. I rechecked them not long ago and found no buildup. Ive installed a few extra filters as well. Carbs are dead on again. Ive verified with my portable universal wideband. Ive got the AFR into low 12s on heavy acceleration so I know the carb oil is where it needs to be. The car has been great since finding those filters and cleaning them.

This thread pretty much covers the thoughts Ive had on the subject of Nissan and Small Sporty Vehicles for many many years. I believe the final big push towards this idea for me was when the Nissan/Z community started the push for the 'New' Z. Pictures like or another really let a lot of us old enthusiast down when we received Without much research Id say the 350Z did ok based on the amount of these cars I see on the road in Ca.. They arent a totally bad car, but as Tony points out they are no Subaru WRX/Impreza. Hell even the Forester 2.5T in my opinion has done well. Nissan has closed itself out of their own market. I dont feel like Ghosen will push the company into that market again while he has been occupied with the Leaf and Non-US Datsun nameplated 'crap cars' to be coming soon. As far as a Z line I would love to see 2 basic flavors which could be outfitted with other major options such as SC/TC/alternate fuels/etc. Hell, off subject and in a different market, Id love to see this manufacture pull a leaf based or Volt like sports car off to compete with the Tesla Sports Car market. How much did those Teslas end up costing their owners? As Subaru makes very apparent it doesn't have to be a coupe to qualify as sporty. Basic 4cyl model and Inline 6 If other companies can provide vehicles to us with turbos and still keep their cars under $20K, then I do not see why Nissan cannot as well. I feel like the market is still there for them, but apparently Nissan's R&D department believes otherwise. Ratsun.net Link 2009 Datsun Nameplate An article from 2009 that a lot of us may remember: Yutaka Katayama, known to American Datsun/Nissan fans simply as Mr. K, will be remembered for two very important cars: the 240Z and the 510, both of which are now considered classics. Mr. K turned one hundred years old on September 15, but age hasn’t tempered his mind. In fact it seems sharper than ever. Talking about the new 370Z, Mr. K calls it, “So-so.†He continues, “Very different from the 240Z. First, it’s very heavy, and it’s also very expensive.†And not only does Mr. K feel the car new Z is too expensive, but that it’s not actually living up to the Japanese sports car legacy laid down by the 240Z, “I’d like to have a sports car like the Miata. The Miata is taking the place of the 240Z.†Harsh. But check this out, “Katayama has a 350Z in his garage but prefers to drive the family’s Versa compact.†And there you have it. Mr. K would like to see the Datsun nameplate come back, and with sportier cars. “The fun of driving cars is the same as riding a horse. We need a car that is like riding on horseback. We are making robots. Robots don’t like human control.†Even at the ripe old age of one hundred, Mr. K just might be around to see his wish come true, “I just entered the 100s. I have a long way to go.â€

Fidanza never corrected the issue. They will not be as far as their tech and R&D departments stated ever be recutting the tooth patterns on their cam gears. I do not know if they are still offering this product with the defective teeth, but I hope they are not. I finally received a refund last month for the gears. Sad end to the story. In short do not buy the Fidanza Cam gears for the RB series engine until you are certain they have a revised square cut tooth pattern.

It may make it a slightly easier task or pretty much the same. The driveshaft has to be shortened for the coupe. You wont know until you get it in and measure the length. The difference is the 10 or so inches behind the rear seats and that is it. The front of the car is for all intensive purposes exactly the same as a coupe. I say go for it. Ive only ever seen 1 2+2 RB swap(it was at the 2012 MSA West Coast Nationals). Id like to see more.

Polar Bear Auto Care Hals Auto Care Polar Bear has Datsun AC parts available to order new still and only a day or so out if I remember correctly if you need a new receiver dryer.

It can be done. Your best bet though is to drive to a specialty AC shop. I know there are 2 in Sacramento, but that is the extent of my knowledge there. A shop that can make you lines. If you can figure out how to retrofit newer lines onto your car(Even 260Z lines) and install an evaporator under the dash(either passenger side style or later styles behind the center panel) you will only need to buy a few things new. Provided you have the RB20 compressor and its in good shape, you will need the lines made to adapt the compressor to the chassis lines and a new desiccant can(receiver dryer). Im going to ditch the stock Condenser on my 260Z in favor of a newer more efficient aluminum core, but keep the old evaporator. Im up in the air about keeping the original expansion valve with a fixed orifice system though. I am told the system will work well with R134a without doing all the extra modifications Im thinking off. At the same time, Im looking to keep the parts modern enough so that I can walk in and replace them as needed without the hassles of finding old outdated parts. One tip I can give you is look into AC system cleaners. You system will need to be cleaned out because of the nature of old used components. Once its clean the system can be readied to be tested and charged. Some of the old timer AC guys are the best people to talk to about your questions.

Tight valves or something else that has compromised compression in someway would be my guess. Watch the compression gauge on the first two pulses. Low jumps of the needle will indicate a problem even if the compression is close to good on the suspect cylinder.

One of my previous cars restored by Arvid which I believe now resides in Norway Really wish I had some better pictures of the car, but its come a long way from the top rack at the local wrecking yard.

EGR allows leaner AFR's at cruise. Chrysler being the biggest proponent of this implementation in past years off the top of my head. Just one of the reasons why EGR was implemented. I believe there are posts covering this information in depth on this site as well if you want to learn more. In my past turbo swaps I do away with the AAC and EGR but retain the Air Regulator on the stock ECCS system. Though I admit I have not figured out the complete function of the AAC as there seems to be an idle kickup separate for the A/C system. I am curious as to when the AAC is commanded to open and closed.

No those cheap 2 ply pretend silicone couplers seem to do the exploding. Those plumbing ones work... I dare say it on the forum, well. They do tend to get hard as they are exposed to any hydrocarbons and heat though and eventually will leak boost around the clamped ends. But good to get you going and for short term for sure. I think I have one on my car for 6 months.

Id be okay with a well thought out 4cyl but come'on bring back an inline 6! One can only hope... Something to compete with the 1 series at the price of that 86 would be fantastic! I have no hope though. Datsun is Dead and Nissan is dead to me.

It turns out I have the correct ones, and they do not know what the problem is, but they are sending me replacement bushings for one side. Hopefully I can get this sorted out on my own.

I purchased Dereks wheel. The only issue is with the stock fan and fan clutch for clearance. If your running it with the old 240Z with dealer installed A/C the fan will clear from what I can tell. Dereks wheel is a bolt on deal and there is no need to use those 6mm bolt holes. I would not be able to even tell you if those bolt holes are all in the same location on all the dampeners. They might be. Who knows how the keyway was cut initially though. Dereks wheel is also adjustable once installed via 4 6mm allen bolts. Im 4 Ford Modular COP's and one Mega Jolt away from firing mine off, but its on the back burner behind 2 other major projects at this time. I highly recommend Dereks setup. By far the best EDIS trigger wheel and sensor mount Ive seen on the market for our engines. And the bugs are all pretty much worked out already. The only bit of feedback I can offer on your idea is, that your balancer and pretty much all the balancers out there are 30+ years old and being held together with an elastimer band that has or will likely slip. So using it as you timing reference point may not be a good idea. Not to mention air gap and the posibility that the dampner is not exactly aligned on that elastimer band with the precision needed. Not to say it wont work, but the whole point of the system is to get rock solid accurate ignition timing. And to use an example of this logic, check out most OE applications like the EDIS or GM systems you will note the trigger wheel is solid mounted in most cases to the crank in some way before the elastimer band.

Disconnecting the CHTS does not put the ECU into 'closed loop'. Closed loop is achieved when the ECU is sampling all the major sensors + O2 sensor. During 'open loop' operation the ECU is not monitoring the O2 sensor/s and is basing its timing and fuel information off per-programmed maps. Unplugging the CHTS does put the ECU into open-loop operation until the sensor is plugged back in and a reasonable signal is read by the ECU. By unplugging the CHTS you are tricking the ECU into thinking the engine is very cold. Matter of fact -40*F. What that does is puts the ECU into cold enrichment and the fuel injectors are modulated pig rich! Your fuel pressure sounds good. Your ignition issue is bothersome. Question: Does this car sputter at all times or just when its warm? Make sure your not seeing the timing jump around at 2000rpm idle. A few degrees is probably okay, but if your seeing it go all over the place Id suspect the CAS. IF you can get the engine to sputter with no load(high idle) I personally would start leaning harder on the timing issue, though that is not a 100% indicator of that failure. Perhaps test the diaphragm in the old waste-gate? Make sure it isnt blown out. I would not up your boost until you have sorted your current issue if that isnt obvious. I can tell you from experience running the car like you are in that video will result in broken piston skirts galore in short order! They will stress crack up the sides of the skirts and possibly break the ring lands out between the rings. So verify your timing and timing curve is solid not just base timing. Eliminate this possibility as this failure will cause exactly this issue! IF timing is not the issue then verify that you have rock solid boost in stock range.

You got that thing together about as fast as I got my rb25 together. Thats looking pretty good! I about to change my intercooler. Would you be willing to post your dimensions? I have one sitting here and Im looking at purchasing another. Those ends look like vibrant 3" 90*. Welding those ends on simplifies the whole piping situation through the rad support. Thats my goal, but I wont be satisfied unless I can keep my 10* F drop in temp across the intercooler at least. What is the width, height, and length of that core?

Opps, missed that. Well, in that case Id say if cutting isnt an option what about bang bang bang? Hammer the crease out of the axles way? I probably wouldnt grind much on the axles themselves if at all. Its not gonna give you the clearance you need anyway.

I have z31 4 bolt flanges on my 260Z and its 6" lowered from stock and I do not have that issue. If that is in front of the axle and only on one side Id say you have a toe in issue in the rear. The rear toes in under load a little, but shouldnt that much. I could be wrong but perhaps you have a different issue.

I will have to call Arizona Zcar and discuss the 13" rotor option. I want to be able to order my replacement rotors from anywhere I please without having to drill or modify anything again such as lug patterns. If they have a 13" Willwood rotor with 4 lug as an option that I can order from any Willwood distributor like SummitRacing Im likely to go that route with the 4 piston calipers. Im also considering ditching my rear disc brake conversion that's in my garage for the Silvermine stage 4 vented rotors. Im not reading good things about them, but Nigel suggests a few fixes that make them viable is I can discern exactly what he did to an $800 kit to make them better. Thanks for all the input guys. I will be sure to document my re-build process in the RB forum as I progress! Ray

MSA just contacted me regarding this. It seems they believe they sent me a kit for a S130. They have never had a problem with these kits so says the man at MSA but he found that some of the kits were mixed up in the bin and it possible that is what happened. If it was they are going to send me a new (correct) kit for my car. For what their products sometimes lack MSA sure does make up for in customer service and keeping us Z owners happy! I will post back with further updates.

Are you kidding TONY!!! Picture #33! That poor GT! That really is an Un-Godly amount of stupid waste. The Shelby has to be worth a crap ton... esp since Shelby has just recently past on. Talk about Vette and Porsche 'barn finds'. I thinks Ferrari's are made just so rich people have something they can say they crashed so that pretty much concludes my view on all of those...

Fantastic chop! Im still waiting for someone to pull this off with a more modern window seal. Im not talking about just the windshield. It would be nice to see the side windows and front window flush the body line, rather than stay recessed. The drip rail to be also deleted. Not saying you should, Id say you are trying to be quite modest and its working very well for you, and by far better than all the others Ive seen so far. I understand the feat of doing what Im asking as well. Ive attempted it once and seen it done with some success once as well. Over-all you've got an awesome piece of work there!

I wont sugar coat it. The last 2 fairly straight, minimal rust, and driving 260Z's I purchased were $150 and $600 and I drove both of them home. If the car was in Ca Id probably only offer a few hundred for it. Its value is only in parts to anyone that does not have some sentimental value towards it. As a stock worn down 260Z goes Insurance might only offer you $1900 to total it as I found out(not that that applies to your situation but it shows the cars value in the previous shape). I just had a CCCValueScope report done on my 260Z after it was hit and that was the offer before I sent them 150 pages of receipts valuing the car way beyond that. If you can get $500-$1000 you are doing great! Personally my advice is to fix what you can before you sell it. Replace the front fender assembly, replace the strut, and replace the door. Those should be fairly easy and cheap to replace and as long as your not seeing any (I mean any) waves in the unibody structure up front near the strut tower or up towards the window/door pillar the car would be savable to any buyer and possibly increase the value. The key would to be find the parts as cheaply as possible though. Start by removing and inspecting the chassis structure for any signs of damage. The front fender should be the only thing you have to remove to check it out. My reasons are: -Its a 260Z. 260Z owners are crazy in the eyes of anyone else out there. Why didnt we just buy the 240Z. -There were a great many number of those 260Z models made despite there being only one model year here in the US. -The 260Z models pop up on a fairly regular basis (at least here) on CL, Ebay, and local venues. They are gaining value, but all in all most would rather follow my first reason(buy a 240Z as 'they were the first and the best') I dont mean to be a ****. I thought I would give you the truth as I have come to see it. If you can raise the value of the 260Z Im all for it. Ive been collecting them so you'd pave the way for my rust to become gold! Post it for sale and in the mean time start inspecting. Who knows someone might have the 260Z bug and pick it up as a parts car for theirs or perhaps you will get to the point where you can put it together again and either keep it or sell it for a better price. Just my opinion. Sorry for the loss man, and good luck in whatever you decide to do! EDIT: ROFL, Im a multiple owner of 260Z's. I actually prefer them for the same reason Tony states below! Just giving an example as to why the general populous has not gain favor for the 260Z. Not my personal opinion.

Check out RTZ's setup and my own in this forum. Both of us are running the Q45 non-traction control throttle bodies. You can run it as pictured above as well. I found it easier to deal with the TPS and upper rad hose in a Z to place the cable below. I have also seen it installed 180* from my suggestion as well so the cable is mounted on top like GTZ. If the TPS sensor from the stock throttle body(The one closest to the intake manifold) bolts to your aftermarket TB then go with it. Make sure your aftermarket TB actually shuts at close and seals or you will have idling issues with a mostly stock motor. Ive seen this become a problem with idle adjustments and aftermarket cheap TB's. I would hope the more expensive aftermarket stuff works better.

Rotate the TB 90* Anti-Clockwise. Make a bracket that attaches to the manifold and goes under the plenum to hold the throttle cable. You will have to find a way to delete the ATTESA TB or what Im assuming your calling the idle motor. I cannot tell you if the ATTESA system is built into your ECU. You will have to wait for someone that has done the NEO ATTESA swap before to respond, but as I understand it that extra throttle flap and motor are part of the 'traction control' system. Unless you are wanting to figure out how to incorporate it, delete it and be done with it. Unfortunately my knowledge is limited with both ATTESA and the NEO setup so I cannot without taring into one even guess how they are tied into each other. My guess is that if you have an Idle Air Controller on the rear side of the motor mounted to the intake manifold that the ATTESA system wont be an issue. Just an UN-educated guess. I suppose IF you wanted to keep it, then I would look into the 1996 President/Q45 systems to match the TB bore and figure out how to install that as close to the TB as possible, but there are a significant amount of other sensors and devices attached to that ATTESA system than just on the motor. Ray