rayaapp2

I read the first post and thought about that start signal wire. I went through the same thing many years ago with that damned wire! Personally Id go through your connections between the car and the FI harnesses. Make sure you have good connections and the correct connections just to be sure. Ive seen these setups do the spark and die. I dont remember off hand what happened for sure to cause momentary power/ground. I dont want to lead you down a worthless path, but I think I started at the ECCS/ignition Relay. Multimeter time

Currently one of my cars has a single Baja style un-adjustable seat. Its black. The problem is that I do not have another and it has no adjust ability. If I had the second one Id give up and be content. Anyone with a pair of nice seats please let me know what you have and what your asking for them. Im not going to spend more than $300 on a set, the fact is Id like to keep it closer to $100 for a pair. Im not after stock seats BTW. I need something a little more rigid for the car like summit racing racing seats. Id thought Id check here first before I go buy a seat from summit or the local speed shop. If anyone has the matching Baja style seat and is willing to sell lmk pm please

Man this car has come a long way since it was on the top rack over at San Benito Auto Wreckers oh so many years ago. Good progress! Definately get us some videos please. Ray

And some of us wonder why the OP couldnt find an answer using the search. diesel, 30W, 20w50, 10w30, syn, ect... ROFL! I only use good oil in my more built engines/modern engines. I could see using some of the diesel oils in the older stockish L series. Why not. I have to agree with John about syn oils and gunk. Ive worked on enough BMW's with synthetic oils. Driving styles and intervals kill those engines. My RB25 is picky about its oils. It tends to burn some synthetics like royal purple 5w30 but not redline 5w30 or Mobile 1. My L series will take about any oil I stick in there. Even the Turbo engines. If the engine is high mileage I add Lucas stabilizer. In my 2L roadster I run Kendal GT1 synthetic as it has the additives needed for older valve guides and such. I really like Kendal GT1 for my older cars, but its slightly more spendy than conventional oils and is harder to get my hands on locally or Id run it in my nicer L series as well, but it doesnt seem to make much of a difference as some of these L series havent seen the additives in hundreds of thousands of miles at this point and havent killed the valve guides or valve-train. This seems to be a testament to Nissans manufacturing and choice of materials way back when they made the good stuff though. BB chevy heads would have sucked a valve long ago. I dont know what your going to pull from this thread other than the Lseries is pretty stout no matter what oil you dump into it. If you find something that works well like the diesel stuff mentioned post back. Im not sure your gonna find some short term benefit from one vs the other though on a stock 100K mile L28. 100K miles on an original L28 is not much. Id bet your gonna find perfect cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls still.

What bothers me is more of the fact that it doesnt even fit the bolt pattern on the cylinder head well. This manifold was advertised to me as to be able to fit in an S30 not a skyline. Though I understand there are a few different mounting kits out there for the S30 so it could be difficult to match everything up completely, but still these engines go into the S30 all within a few inches of each other based on the cross member, sump lean, and bulkhead clearances. There is no excuse as to why the flange should hit the engine block though.

I bought this from a local member here. Its never been run or mounted before I had it so its no fault of the seller that I have encountered the following issues. Im having major fitment issues with this manifold. The flange for the head interferes with the block where the water passage runs under the head. Im going to have to do some grinding. Also 5 or 6 of the studs have to be shortened so the manifold will not hang up on the end of the stud as it slides on which means I will have to find a way to get the same clamping forces without using the OE washers! Two of those studs are almost impossible to get to at all even with the engine out of the car! Im highly disappointed with my LoveFab. At such cost, issues like this should not exist PERIOD! Ive already read the horror stories about sending these manifolds back to whats his name for modifications. They are already all over the internet. I got a pretty good deal on this one, but even at the price I paid for it second hand Ive come to realize the construction materials and craftsmanship are superior to the $500 CXRacing manifold I have, but the design fitment is total CRAP just as bad as the CXRacing(though in the defense of CXracing their manifold was designed for a skyline NOT an S30). Im a little scared to try and mock the manifold up in the car that it might have interference with something else in the engine bay(particularly the left strut tower). I will modify what I have to using a local machine shop, but Im here posting this as a warning to anyone that is thinking about dropping around $2000.00 or whatever the cost is now for one of these new. Think long and hard first. Anyone that has had a good experience PLEASE post it here! Ive read nothing but negative experiences here on Hybridz and a ton of other places. So if you guys will lets start a thread rating these things and save others some headaches.

Apparently after some playing around I have determined that the internal regulator springs gave out after sitting for long periods of time. Both pumps. I added a spring from of all things a pen and suddenly I have pressure and volume. These pumps put out very little volume with no pressure strangely. When they build even 1psi and they begin to flow, before that apparently they do nothing but make noise. The chart says they flow best around 3psi. So thats that for now. Ill likely switch pumps out at a later time. These pumps are long past warranty anyway.

If he has a stock 260Z he doesn't have a lower radiator hose water neck like that. At least none of the ones I have seen have that line. The L28 came with that extra coolant line off the lower radiator hose neck for the TB and air regulator I believe. The L26 260Z and 240Z has the coolant passage that wraps around the back of the block to go through the carbureted manifold plenum areas. IF you plug the thermostat housing waterneck you will also have to deal with the hoses on the passenger side rear of the block. Perhaps delete the Y fitting near the dip stick tube. That is usually what I do(In this climate area I never run heated carbs/intakes), but there is some debate about messing around with the coolant passages here on hybridz.

So I must be doing something wrong. I have 2 cars with these pumps. 1 71 240Z with a stock L24 and 1 71 240Z with a 5.7L lt1. Both have the same exact series 110 mallory fuel pump installed. BOTH of these pumps produce a trickle of fuel and no pressure while they sit in the back next to the tank and make a ton of noise. They occasionally try to make pressure and oscillate in pitch. I purchased the brush and seal kit for the one in the stock l24 car. It made no real difference. I have heard the internal regulator tends to stick on these pumps because of a design flaw and how the adjuster screw is threaded down into the relief plunger. I have also heard that this usually causes a problem with high pressure. I installed(borrowed) a Holley pump in the SBC car and viola! fuel pressure! Aside from tossing two pumps in the trash and having to buy 2 new pumps what can I do. Im really hoping someone here has ran into this issue and has figured out the solution. Help?

Check to make sure the CTS has a good circuit. When the sensor is unplugged or has an open on most cars it will read ~ -40 Deg.

As the title says Im looking for the bolts that hold the belt covers to the engine as well as the backing plate that the upper timing cover bolts to. PM me please with what you have and what your asking for them. Thanks Ray

That's really not a simple question. Valve event timing, clearance for expansion, and a lot of other variables play roles. Use the old rules the hot rod guys use and you will be fine. When in doubt measure, use clay, measure, and re-measure. Cut reliefs as required.

I kinda agree. I have an honest 300hp rb25 in a 260Z. Its mildy fast. Having been in a 490hp RB25 S30 chassis I can say that is very fast as well. We are talking about very quick cars beyond that and even quicker in a lighter chassis S30 example 240z. Looking at Stony's car and RIPS cars that are closer to what your trying to do, id say honestly buy Stonys car. You will save money and get exactly what your after, though it be far from ever being really streetable. Those HP goals are just figures. Anything close to 500hp is probably gonna smoke about any mass produced stock car on the road and be streetable in an early Z. Shooting for a ridiculous power range is just smoke unless your in competition and/or have actually experienced a real car like that. Personally anything with that much power in these cars would scare me crapless. My personal goals for my own rb25 are set to build something that safe at 550hp, but I will just be happy with a really fast 260Z that in the end I built myself to my own standards even if I fall a hundred hp short. If you really want a 800-1000hp Z I would seriously contact Stony as he has stated he may want to sell his car(which is registered in Alaska already). The only downside is that you did not build it yourself, but its almost unanimously agreed that the car was built right. gl

All the L26 engines I have seen (4 total) have flat top pistons like the L24 not dished. That said 10.5:1 would still be hard to achieve with the stock cylinder heads that fit an L26 bore. Some of the thinnest head gaskets available are .3mm crush and even then 9.5:1 is pretty typical of most heads that will clear the bore in an L26/L24. Im not sure any 'dished' piston would yield that compression ratio with any available cylinder head. Domed, typo?

Just purchased: Its a pretty old swap, and even though everything is oxidizing the engine is fresh. If anyone happens to know what headers I have please let me know. The collectors are not welded on, rather they have pins or something to retain them to 2 out of 4 header pipes on each side. The clear the steering shaft and the frame rails pretty well. They cannot be removed with the SBC in the car and in order to change the oil filter they do have to be removed(my only complaint so far). My goal for Saturday(today) is to replace the whole fuel system up to the engine, and put some exhaust on it that isnt cherry bombs with turn downs so I can fire it off today for the first time since around 2007. Wish me luck

HAHAHA... I have a large box of trophy's that use to be displayed on my work bench. Everything from L-series to BBC. My favorites are held together with silicone. One particular BBC spun a bearing and tossed the rod during a really good burnout(it was 454 in a 72 Z). There is about 1" of rod that is just missing right in the middle. There wasnt a chunk to find either! That was the last running BBC I owned to this day.

There is one notation about flat tops vs dish that has not been covered in this thread. Turbo dish pistons have more meat and strengthening in the piston itself. Its minor stuff, but IMO Nissan took the time to do what they always use to do back in those days and over built the holy living crud out of it. There is a thread buried in this site showing the differences. It may possibly be a sticky somewhere I do not remember. The reason I went with the flat top F54 motor was because I destroyed the stock turbo bottom end in short order with the first untuned green build. By green I mean my personal experience as a technician/builder/tuner. All six pistons had broken ring lands, broken rings, cracks up either side of the skirts and showing significant wear on the thrust surfaces. That motor was a true garage trophy of my greenness. The non-turbo blocks were plentiful and cheap(Free-$50 a short block).

60000rpm I wish... just because no one else here has yet... I think.

I do not recall the exact modifications, but it was basically a T3 with some work to the turbine side. I do remember I ditched the stock wastegate housing completely for a Z31 style one with a larger diameter exhaust integral DP with less angle. And I did have some boost drop off at about 60000rpm that landed around 14-15psi. The exhaust manifold was a stock manifold with some non-professional port work. The turbine housing may have been Z31 turbine housings now that I think about it with a little work done to them. It was definitely not in the efficient range... I ran through several stock turbos dealing with cracking turbine housings as well at first. The compressor side was completely stock. I only ran 24" or so of straight pipe exhaust from the DP. I had expected 14psi to be the end, but it continued to boost higher lbs so I kept going. I daily drove the car with a backup vehicle as the car was $150+$1000 engine swap so it was a lets see what I can squeeze before it goes, after all I had a garage full of spare turbo engines at the time... and somehow Im pretty much there again. The boost really came on like a light switch at those boost levels. There wasnt a smooth transition at all. You never know until you try right.

Engine Save the rear end with axles even if you dont use them IF its the LSD unit Save the engine harness Save the ECU and relays Some models have a fuel pump modulator under the rear deck that's deletable in a swap. Save the key set for re-sale I saved the bell housing from the last auto trans in the hopes it can be used to make an adapter or at least be used for a template That pretty much covers it. Dont bother saving the fuel pump unless you test it or know its brand new. They are a common failure for these cars. Get on NicoClub(Not the greatest site) and search the G50 forums for known failures and the year you are looking at if you have not already done the searching. Each couple of years seem to have their own set of issues.

Oh yeah, Also 160* Thermostat and a stock 2 row ZX radiator(which hung low on my 260z)

Dam, You beat us to it! My buddy an avid second gen camero guy is building a 75 280Z with an LS1 swap. He has a 71 camero and we have been planning a bunch of chevy mods for the car including those tail lights for over a month now. I guess we dont need MS Paint anymore now that you posted these pics. We are also planning to use a modified chevy steering column(no idea what it came out of) I purchased a while back that bolts into the Z already that can accept a Chevelle style walnut steering wheel(the one with the blue outlined bowtie). We are calling the project GMZ at the moment and hope to be able to have some custom B pillar emblems made to that effect. Im guessing they are installed 180* from the original camero positions as the panel slops the opposite direction? Ill take any tips you may have.

Id say thats a fair price. If you include all my hours of work which I recently added up I have $54,000 into my crappy looking 260Z Rb25det swap. Not to say you wont find something like Jakeostars 240Z for $11,000 out there, but for what he has $25,000 seems plenty fair and a very good start for someone that likes a good jigsaw puzzle. After putting my car together on the cheap and just having it run vs where I am at now is incomparable. The pictures are crappy at best on that add, but if he has what he seems to be claiming Id say that's a steal of a deal for someone that wants to go all out and not just have another tossed together RB swap and since it is apart its more open to those buyers that may want to assemble it with a different 'dream' in mind than the original builder. I wouldn't let my pile of poo go for less than double that price before my incident in February and definitely not now that another $15,000 is going into it to repair it.

I have a curiosity with the rockers in these engines. I have at least 5 variations of the stock L series rockers and Im sure there are others. I have rarely come across an L series head with a complete matching set of rockers. With tolerances that tight I wonder if you find that the 'tight' valves correspond with non-matching rockers. The theory being that a different casting may expand and contract differently causing issues with the valve lash causing tighter valves and resulting in erosion of the valve seats. I would think a simple hot vs cold lash reading might point to this. Ive had my own frustrations with mixed and matched rocker sets over the years. As stated above they could just be seating still, but I am curious.

About a day after I posted this I spoke with a friend about this and he pointed me in a better direction for the fuel cells. My question is still unanswered, but I am looking into an FIA approved Fuel Safe tank. I have to look it up again, but I believe its the enduro model? Could be wrong, but I made sure it has the FIA approved bladder so its legit on the track. Im trying to stay track friendly as the car moving more towards that than the street car it once was. If that's the case with the fill valve them perhaps I should contact Fuel Safe and see if they make something similar. Ray