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MUCH better look to the site today. Nice job! Only 1 thing left to change. Change the "Engineered to be feared" to "Engineered to be better". Is anyone actually afraid of a vehicle (non military of course)? The feared part kind of goes along with some sort of image, which this site has nothing to do with (thank you!). Just my 0.02 Pete

That's pretty much the same timing map I'm using on my setup. Never even a hint of detonation. Great throttle response. BTW, I'm running a MS on a 240Z track car with an L28, and I could not believe the difference in throttle respose between that and my 280Z. Real snappy! Moby, what TPS are you using? I'm using a modified 300ZX unit on a 240SX TB. Pete

And here is what that car looks like today: http://www.zccne.org/Convention_2003/convention-photos/ZCCNE20036.jpg Has a Nissan V8, with twin turbos, and an amazing intercooler setup that vents out of the aluminum vents in the hood. Unfortunately iI didnt get photos of the engine at this years convention. I know where the Bob Sharp collection is, and maybe I can get in there to get more phots. It's an amazing car. Not in running condition though. Here is what the C production fully restored 280Z looks like: http://www.zccne.org/Convention_2003/convention-photos/ZCCNE200360.jpg Got to drive behind this thing on the track at the convetion, and I though there was something wrong with my car due to the vibrations from the car. It's actually a 240Z, with a 280Z tailight panel. Pete

First of all, read and UNDERSTAND the directions that cam with your new rings. Different manufacturers use different ring top designations. Typically, the two oil rings (thin shiny ones) and the expander (wavy looking thing), go on first. Then one of the two compression rings next. You can't get the compression rings messup as far as which groove they go into because the top groove is wider than the second groove. The question is if you got the two compressions rings right side up. Some mfgs. put a little dot to indicate the top of the ring. Some rings are tapered to indicated the top. Sometimes the second compression ring has no designation, which means it can go on either way. What brand rings do you have? Also, you need to position the gaps so they do not overlap. With the notch on the top of the piston being 12:00, put the top ring gap at 2:00, the sencond compression ring at 8:00. The oil rings should be staggered also, with the end gaps of the expander not overlapping each other. If you don't think you got them in there correct, now is the time to pop them back out. Just be carefull not to ding up the crank journals. It is a lott easier to do it now, than after you got it back in the car. Pete

While on the subject of tech inspection, would an aluminum cover over the filler and all hoses be acceptable? Does the battery need to be an air tight seal? Here is the fuel cell on autocross/time trial car a couple of friends of mine are building. See the pic (the battery is now enclosed in an aluminum box):

I've had good luck with these guys: expressautoparts.com http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/express/quote.jsp?partner=express&year=1983&product=C1030-32924&application=000238972

If the pins were beat out like you said, I'd throw them out for new ones. It's going to cost a fair amount to build a stroker, so why flush it down the tube with some questionalble pistons. Unless they are super premium forged pistons (not cast), trash them. I just bought a complete set of L28 1mm over pistons for $190, which included pins and hastings rings. I'm sure he can get you KA-24 pistons for a little more (you may have to buy two sets of 4). http://www.johnsforeignengines.com Pete

When I put my aluminum lines in, anywhere there was metal to metal contact, I used rubber hose over the aluminum line to protect it. Put a couple of tie wraps around it to kepp it from moving. If the high pressure line were to rupture, you would probably loose fuel pressure, which would cause the engine to stall, and the ECU would turn off the pump. If the return line ruptured, then you would be spewing fuel until the tank went empty. Pete

Ross must be out of town, so I'm posting this questions because it's the only problem still keeping my car on jack stands. I bought the 240SX rear disc brake line kit from Ross, and there appears to be a problem. On the passenger side, where you remove the short piece of hard line from the "T", and screw in an adapter for the SS line is leaking. Not leaking bad, but any leak in the brake system is not too good. Anyway, after looking at it further, it appears that the end that screws into the "T" is the wrong gender. The hard line I removed is an inverted flare (as are most of the hard lines on old Zs), where the adapeter fitting is a non inverted flare on both ends. This is OK for the end that the SS line screws into, but not so great for the end that screws into the "T". Maybe the wrong adapter ended up in the kit? I know a bunch of you have done the conversion, so has anyone seen this problem before? If so, got the part number for the correct adapter? Thanks, Pete

Yes, that is per wheel. They are expensive, but really nice. They will also customize fitment for just about any vehicle. The $650 wheels are the cheap ones, I' know people who have spent over $6k for a set. Too much for me Pete

Here is the one I use: http://www.zcarclub.com.au/lseries.htm

Good idea for the battery tray. I just mounted my battery box in the track car I'm part owner of, but I just bolted it to the rear deck, just to the right of the fuel cell. Still need to make an inside cover. I may hack a hole in the deck and recess it. Here is a pick of the fuel cell. Pete

I want to commend all the moderators and admins that keep this site great. I think being tough on offenders is the only way to keep the site the way we all want it. No BS, just the facts. This truly is a great technical resource, which is so hard to find these days. I watched a cheezy show on Speed the other night (Tuner Transformations). They wanted to turn a 240SX into a high performance drift car. They showed them hoisting the Ka24 out, and in the next frame they are polishing the SR20DET valve cover installed in the 240SX. Oh yea, it's that easy! This is so indicative of the kind of technical reporting done out there. No one wants to actually talk technical details, becasue they are afraid of scaring readers/viewers away. Here at HybridZ, I'm sure we scare away plenty. Being a long time internet user, I'm convinced this is the best technical source I've found. I also think the forum organization is perfect just the way it is. All engines should be represented here, including Nissan. Keep up the good work, Pete Sanders Internet Z Car Club #55

Why not just rebuild a 350, and put those extra pistons to use? Although a reliable motor, I'm not a big fan of the 4.3, especially for performance applications. Go with the 350. Pete

Tim, what brand and model tire are you running? It looks from the photos that your car is just a little lower than stock, correct? Would this explain why you didn't need to roll or cut the fender lip? Thanks, Pete

Anyone running 5" backspace 16x8" rims, coil overs, and 245-45ZR16 tires? Any lower perch to tire clearance problems? I measure about 1/2" between the wheel and lower perch. I'd like to run 245-45ZR16 Toyo RA-1s. Acording to Toyo, the overall width of the tire is 9.6". The overall width of my rim is 9", this leaves 0.3" overhang on the inside and outside. Seems like I might be cutting it a little close. I can go with 225-50ZR16s, but the diameter is a little taller tan I wanted. Any suggestions appreciated. Pete

Yes, you can still get parts easily for L28s. In fact, you can still get most 240Z parts from Nissan. Courtesy Nissan in Texas is a good place to start. I've had good luck with them. Ask for the club discount, it's sustantial. http://www.courtesynissan.com Pete

I'm in the process of putting an L28 together, and have the dilema: The gasket set cam with the two rubber seals that fit into the slots in the rear main bearing cap. It didn't come with the nails (metal pins) that need to be inserted after the seals and main cap is installed. Do I need the nails? This is the second gasket set I've seen that doesn' have them. Thanks, Pete

I picked up a Bosch pump cheap, and I need to know the flow rate. Anyone know where to get that info? The part number is: 9 580 233 011 Thanks, Pete

Thanks a bunch for all the responses. I'll be copying this into a document to have near by when I start tuning it. All this reminds me of this Impact Parts modification that I found an installtion manual for in a 280ZX I stripped. The kit was basically what you described, a pot, connected in between the proper CTS lead to fake the computer out. Thanks again, Pete

John, Is the injector cooling fan still intack? Its a squirrel fan that mounts on the passenger side, with ductwork that goes up over the valve cover to direct the air on the injectors. Do you hear it run after you shut the motor off? Your car should have one. If it doesn't seem to be coming on, I have two of them, one of which you can have. It bolts in, with a two wire connections. After saying all that, I find it hard to beleive you are having vapor lock problems with the weather we have be having in Ne England this year! It may be something else, of which I have no idea, sorry. Pete

I did a search, but couldn't locate the answer I am looking for. I'm building a 1mm over 10:1 NA 280Z motor for my wife's 78' 280Z, so I'm going to need the enrich the mixture a bit. I'd like to run stock fuel pressure, and keep the EFI looking stock (except that I plan on running a non smog manifold). So I'm thinking that there must be a way to modify the AFM to fake out the EFI computer, with the result being the ability to adjust mixture. I know about the adjustment screw in the AFM, but from what I hear, there isn't enough adjustment to compensate for modifications like increased CR. Any help or suggestions appreciated. Pete

Invest in some speed bleeders, but if the MC is really bad, remove it from the car, and clean it throughly. Or, just replace it. Then bleed the entire system multiple times util clean fluid comes out from each corner. Use DOT 4 fluid if you plan on doing motorsport events. Pete

For an engine kit, try http://johnsforeignengines.com Send him an email. Very responsive, and good service, and great prices. He may not have the turbo rings, but he will have everything else. You may need to go to Nissan for the rings. Before ordering anything, I'd pull it appart to be sure on what size rod and main bearings you need. Also, just to to check the condition of the bores and crank journals. If you need to bore it, finding oversized turbo pistons mught be difficult. Forged aftermarket ones are expensive. I guess it depends on how much boost you are going to run. For a turbo kit, http://www.turbocity.com has them. I had a T4/T3 hybrid rebuild recently for $150, so you may want to go that route and get a warranty. Pete

John, May I suggest some wheel adapters that will let you choose from thousands of wheels. They will adapt the Zs zero offset ot a more "Honda like" positive offset. Then the sky is the limit as far as wheel designs. http://www.modern-motorsports.com Pete