z-ya

Yea I decided on the 8.5+4 in the front for these reasons: - 245 width tire fits nice on an 8.5" rim. - The back space is 4.9", which is perfect with coil overs, and tucks the wheel in nicely so that a huge flare is not needed in front. - It emphasizes the staggered look, which I like. Yes, I will be flaring the fenders. Not sure which flares yet. I have molds for the BSR 280Z front enders, I might use those. The rear is up in the air. I'm not much into the ZG bolt on look, so they will be molded in somehow. I have a contact for the guy that made the molds originally for BSR, so I may try and get the rear fender molds. I also have the front and rear spoiler molds, so I might use those also. This is what they look like: I'll run longer studs and use spacers to fill the fenders correctly if needed. Pete

Mmmm, this coming from someone I beat in the same car at an autocross.....

And the winner is..... Yup, clogged Supertrapp. Now how would a Supertrapp all of a sudden get clogged? The car ran great at one event, and horrible at the next a few weeks later. More thought on this: - Speed density EFI does not look at air flowing through the engine like a MAF based system, only manifold pressure. So at full throttle (atmospheric pressure), the ECU injects the same fuel regardless of how much air is moving through the engine. Thus a clog in the intake or exhaust will show a rich condidtion. With a carburetor or MAF based EFI system you will not see a rich condiditon, just a loss in power.

OK, hear is a good one for you. Lets see who can figure it out. I'll post the symptom, and info about the setup that is relevant. I've been trying to figure it out for weeks now, and had no idea what to try next. A friend made a suggestion that fixed it. So after a lap or two on a road course the engine falls flat on it's face when under full load. Probably down 50% on power, and the wide band gauge goes way rich (10:1 AFR). Setup: L28 NA Speed density based EFI (no MAF) EFI, ignition and fuel system tested and 100% functional No issues with engine mechanically 6:1 header, 2.5" exhaust, Supertrapp muffler Dual SU intakes with throttle bodies Let's see who can figure it out... Pete

I am using the fan control on MS2. Pin 30 has a transistor driving circuit on the V3 mainboard so no board changes are need to provide ground to an external relay coil.

I got mine from Kim yesterday. Fast professional service. I'm going staggered. 17x8.5+4 front and 17x9.5-19 rear. Gunmetal with machined lip. Pete

What about the P90? Since the combustion chamber is the same as the P79, and it has square exhaust ports like the N42 and E88. And why the E88? Why not an E31? It is the choice of many an SCCA champion. Maybe a little searching and learning is in order

Complete sentences, correct spelling, and punctuation, would make it much easier to understand what you are trying to say.

Hey Dave, I think the OEM ones are better. The aftermarket cast ones seem cheap and not as precision as the OEM ones. Not sure if a difference in weight really makes a difference. I'm concerned more with accurate cam timing with the aftermarket sprockets rather than weight. Yup, the old Bad Dog is enduring another season of dual driver track days. Suspension setup is great. Still needs more power... Pete

This one is a cast aftermarket sprocket: This is a Nissan OEM sprocket:

You can also make a plate like this that mounts to the 4 stock captured nuts.

Wet down the floor (be careful not to splash any on body) just before you tack cloth the car for the last time. Also, use one of those disposable inline water/air filters just before your gun. I have a 5HP 25 gal compressor that I have been painting with. This is how it is set up: Tank -> Regulator (~80psi) -> water separator/filter -> hose -> disposable filter -> regulator (~40psi) -> HVLP gun Pete

Ditto...

Agreed. Just bumping CR will not gain you much but potentially blown head gaskets if you don't keep detonation under control. You can increase power significantly by increasing CR AND a free flowing exhaust, intake, and mild cam. A lot of head work is not required. Time on the dyno and good engine management is required. My 180WHP L28 is proof of that. To get much over 180WHP requires a stout cam and LOTS of head work. I'll let Paul elaborate in that area since it is his area of expertise. Pete

Probably the easiest way to get good power is to just do a complete L28ET swap from a running 280ZXT. You can swap in flat tops and a cam and probably get close to 160WHP with the correct tune. Your probably looking at $400-$500 for parts. While you're at it you might as well get a valve job done. So if all goes well and it doesn't need more machining or parts your looking at close to $800 including gaskets. But if it needs a timing chain, and you decide to put a new oil pump in, your looking at another $200 in parts. If it needs to be bored, your looking at around $2000 for machining and parts if you do the assembly. Then after all that you have to be able to tune it to get the most out of it (different carbs, EFI, etc). Another option is to find a good used F54 NA block (flat tops) and swap your freshened N42 head on it with a mild cam. In either case plan on running 93 octane with this setup. Pete

What is your budget? A stock L28 makes around 120HP at the wheels. What are your HP goals?

Are you sure you have flat tops? If so, your CR is around 10:1. Does it have a stock cam? Pete

OK, I can see where the open chamber was welded up. Very cool.

Paul, This is an N42? It looks like a "P" head to me.

I'd stick with the drums. Once you switch to rear disc then you need to start screwing with front-rear bias. On my time trial racer I run rear drum, vented front disc (Toyo calipers, 300ZX rotors), and a 280Z booster. I use Porterfield R4 compound all around. The brakes are just about perfect. As John said the drums require a bit more maintenance when used on the track. Pete

I had my 240Z soda blasted for $800. He did the entire exterior and the engine compartment. He said it would be another $500 to do the under carriage. Came out great. Does not deform the metal in any way. Another advantage is that the soda film left behind will prevent flash rusing as long as you keep it dry. You also need to wash the car extremely well with "Holdtight 102" before primer otherwise it won't stick. Pete

it is so much easier with the engine (and everything else) out. I suggest waiting until you have the time to do it right. Work on something else in the mean time. Pete

I've got a 240Z cross member and a 280ZXT T5 bell housing I was going to do the same with. Never got around to doing it. Nice thing about using the bell housing is that it will properly mount and support the starter.

I'm measuring temp in the oil pan with an immersed sensor, which I'm assuming is probably the hottest location that is measurable. BTW, I have an electric fan mounted to the radiator that pulls air through the oil cooler and radiator (in that order). Pete

For the track only car, which does around 10 events per year, I do the following: - Engine oil every other event - Trans oil once a year - Differential oil once a year