Pop N Wood

Might have lost my mind, but finally got off the fence and started ordering parts. Lots of very expensive parts. The big parts are as follows: LS2 364/440 crate motor. 440 HP with a single plane carb intake LS7 clutch and flywheel TKO600 5 speed, GM street strip version, 0.64 OD fifth Keisler engineering LS style bell housing Keisler’s hydraulic throw out bearing JTR radiator and ceramic coated headers Mallory Comp 110 fuel pump and return style regulator. Will use ½†feed and return lines. Carb is TBD, but most likely Holley 750 DP with mechanical secondaries and manual choke. VISA is impressed. All going into my 1970 240. Due to the TKO being shorter than a T56 will pattern mounts after Mark Ickard’s write up. This should give me some flexibility positioning the shifter. Got to use my neighbor the car salesman’s employee discount for the engine, clutch and flywheel. Just under $6k for the trio. The crate LS2 looks like it is 6.0L LS2 with a different induction system. That being said, the torque curve is a good 20-30 ft-lb higher than the FI motor at all RPM’s. Plus the torque curve doesn’t fall off as the engine approaches red line. The HP curve is still climbing at 6500 RPM. Any suggestions on carb choice and jetting will be appreciated. Going to be a summer's only car. I am stoked. Going to be a busy summer. This set up will allow me to use the stock tank and all the stock gauges (except maybe tach). Should be the ultimate sleeper. And no HP tuner or laptops needed (get enough of that at work).

Trouble is my county will not let unlicensed people pull electrical permits. Gotta punch the union card.

I don't understand. If you have some type of multi coil set up, then you have to have some type of device which senses the crank position and triggers the spark. The spark controller will have a separate wire going to each coil, which in turn is connected to individual plugs. The spark controller (or computer) will send the power to whatever coil is feeding the plug it wants to fire. What I meant is there is no rotor between the coil and the plug. Thus no change of getting carbon tracing inside the cap hence crossfires between plugs.

This is not the first time I have seen a set of original hub caps sell for over $1000. The last set were new in the box though. If you have an all original show car then premo hub caps are hard to come by. Most people threw those things away shortly after getting the car home.

Interesting point, but you do realize the discussion ended 3 years ago?

The switching is done on the low voltage side by only sending 12V to the coil connected to the plug about to be fired. I guess it is done by the computer.

Compared to TEL those other things might as well be on the store shelf. Nasty stuff.

I don't see what skill there is in not having a minivan make a blind lane change into you speeding car. All luck.

Coils tend to saturate if you send pulses of energy through them at too fast a rate. Multiple coils allow the pulse rate through each coil to be reduced giving them more time to charge up for the next pulse. From a purely technical point of view it is better than a single coil. Or at least it means the coil design is not as demanding. But like said above you can make big power on single coil systems. IMO one of the biggest advantages of multi coil set ups is getting rid of the high voltage switch in the distributor cap. For a pure race car this may not be a big issue because of the high level of maintenance that is done to the cars on a regular basis. But for a street car, getting rid of the dist cap is huge in terms of reliability.

What are the specifics of your car? I used ocatane boosters with my 240 to suppress mild pinging when I first got it. The owners manual recommended 95 octane so thought that was just the way it was going to be. Finally for some reason I checked the SU throttle shaft bushings for vacuum leaks and discoverd they were shot. Put on a set of new carbs (dual webers in my case) and the pinging went away. Was just running too lean off idle. If you have no vacuum leaks, there are ways to lower your static compression, or even water injection.

Massively toxic substance. There is really no safe way to handle it. Google it.

This site has a ton of info on transmissions http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/6_speed.html Another good one is http://www.ddperformance.com/ They make an aftermarket t56 that should bolt up to your exisiting set up. The aftermarket ones even have mechanical speedo hookups. If you go used, you will need to get one from the LT series motors (pre 98?). the LS motors have a different mounting set up. Keep in mind the older T56's seem to need shift forks at some point in their lifes, and the T56 rebuilds are rather expensive. This place is highly regarded on LS1TECH.com and has rebuild packages starting at $900 and up http://www.t56rebuilds.com/ Another option is the TKO. They make a GM version that I bolts up to a standard SBC bell. The transmission places I talked to seem to think a lot of their durability. Their 600 ft-lb rating exceeds the values on the OEM t56's. You can do a search on G Force T5's. Suppose to be strong. some people have had troubles with G Force salesmen. One other member complained that the tranny was very loud. Sort of the price you pay for gears that are more straight cut.

Going to sound wierd, but go to an Old Navy outlet and look at how they make their display racks. Totally modular galvanized steel units that look indestructible. If you could figure out where they get there stuff that would be a way to go. Or better yet. Hurricane season is coming up, so just wait for the next big one then loot the local Old Navy.

Good question about the shifting. Have been wondering myself. Here is a link that talks about the issue http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/tremec.htm Also says the TKO's were redesigned in 2004 with stronger steel and completely redesigned shifter and shift forks.

In the past I have cut the heads off of a couple of bellhousing to engine bolts and cut a flat bladed screw drive slot in the top with a hacksaw. Thread those into the engine and use them to hang/align the trans while you push them together. Turning the trans output shaft will help the splines align (trans must be in gear obviously). Once the two are together, use a screw driver to remove the home made studs and replace with the mounting bolts.

Git r done, boy. Don't suppose the parents were too supportive either. Looking at the wiring mess in that empty engine bay makes me sooo glad I have a 240.

There were a few guys complaining about the weight on LS1TECH too. All I really saw is the stock units is only 8 pounds less. Must be for the whole package because most steel flywheels on Summit are around 30# or less. MAS280 was one of the guys who pioneered the swap on LS1TECH.

That old helmet must have been a rush to use. How in the hell could you hold the arc for a full 5 seconds with no darkening?

Do a search on LS1TECH.com. There are a lot of opinions on clutches there. The really high HP guys seem to love the Textrailia (spelling?) clutches made in Oz. The spec clutches have litterally blow up in a couple of different corvette applications. For the near stock HP guys (which your 400 HP covers), the hot ticket seems to be the LS7 clutch. You will need a new flywheel. Here is a pic of the LS7 clutch compared to the LS1 stock clutch. Most guys on on LS1TECH.com feel the stock LS1 clutch is inadequate. http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10039 Prices and part numbers of the LS7 parts are Clutch $261.00 LS7 Clutch & Pressure plate kit Part No. 242336500 flywheel $161.82 Corvette (NOT GTO) ls2 flywheel Part # 1257611 pilot bearing $8.66 LS1 pilot bearing part number is 14061685 Hopefully a few guys who are actually running upgraded clutches will chime in. I should be buying a clutch this week, but right now I am leaning toward the LS7 unit.

The cam has just the right amount of rumble at idle. Need to post another video where you really open it up. Think I will go flat black too. something to really scare the neighbor kids.

I would like to think you could get 5-6K for that easy. That car is in really good shape. 2+2's aren't the favorite of the type of people that hang out here. But I could easily see a 40 something wanting their dream Z. You could still take the kids to soccer practice with that Hell, it is hard to buy a running car for $2K anymore.

I have no idea if I will have any mounting problems. Was reading through some old old old threads by some of the original LS pioneers and they were hashing through so many issues. Like you said, move one tile and have to reposition 3 others. Mark says his set up worked fine, but he had a dry sump and fuel injection and God knows many other differences. Maybe I am just getting paranoid before spending $10K. Only way I will know for sure is to get hardware in my garage and start measuring. Here is a thread Mike Kelly started about hydraulics. But he and Pete are using first gen engines. Sort of convinced me to go with a known solution, or at least one I can send back to the company who told me it would work. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108176

Oh man. I'm and idiot. Got to stop taking off my glasses at work.

Not to turn this into a bitch fest, but I think most guys are just trying to be polite in asking you why you are doing this. Trouble is you seem pretty confident that you know what you are doing and get defensive pretty quickly. But you asked for criticism so here goes. I don't see how randomly punching a bunch of holes in sheet metal simply because you can do it as being a well thought out and exact way to strengthen you car. Beading and flanging a flat panel will make it more rigid and less susceptible to bending, but I would think in all cases putting beads and flanges in a solid sheet will be more rigid than the same sheet punched full of holes. Strength is an entirely different argument. And there has to be a limit as to how many holes is too much. At some point it will be like making a car out of chain link fence. Your rear fuel cell mounts are a case in point. I would be willing to bet that if I put my 250 pounds of glorious manhood on that piece of cross tubing and bounced up and down it would bend. Probably not the loads that piece will ever see, but why not just use a thinner wall tube in the first place? The other thing to consider is corrosion. Punching subframe connectors full of holes may be great fun, but on a street machine all of that will trap water. Not a good approach IMO.