zero

there ya go http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111619&highlight=maxima

does the corolla run, if so i could possibly take if off your hands. About the maxima, I think I saw someone on this forum who had a v8 maxima. I'll do a search for it

yea their site seems to be down but if i recall correctly their sr20 s14 ran something around an 8.6. They offer built longblocks to make similar power for a price.

ooooh what about a megasquirted 327 with individual throttle bodies or a 1uz-fe with the same.

i like the idea of a rb30de block with a rb26dett head. A hybrid of two engines used to make a hybrid z. Sounds good to me. I am not against the idea of a sbc, but given the choice for my personal car, i would go for rb30det. And it would definately be different.

wow i just noticed that you had posted. Well, yes there are updates..... I gave up basically. I ended up at the end of last summer not being able to get the car running, so I put my old l24 back in to get the car driveable. I am currently running around with my l24 trying to save enough money to do the swap right. I think I am going to rebuild my l28et and rewire the thing the right way and build a test bench and try to get it running outside of the car. If i can get it idling i'll swap it in my z in a weekend and get the car running. Basically I got stuck and want to try again doing everything right and not cutting corners. I want to clean up the intake manifold, and have everything new or rebuilt to start with, so it will be easier to track down problems.

Yea, I've had that happen. Definately take it slow and enjoy the early moments.

From what I have read, it doesnt seem that those springs are as stiff as they appear on paper because of the dual spring setup. At least, I think the guys who have tried them would have immediately noticed a true 400lb/in spring, as that seems like it would be unsprung at all for all intents and purposes. I am gonna try them mostly because there a good deal for the price and I am curious. If the spring rates truly are rediculous I will get new springs.

I am sure the modern motorsports coilovers are better in every way, but the fact is I need springs now, and these are the right price. If worse comes to worst I can always order springs from him or from jegs later and ditch the dual spring setup.

hey, I am looking at these coilovers and was just wondering if you had any more experiences with them to share. I am thinking of bidding on the 'racing' coilovers. Do you have any pics of them installed. Thanks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Racing-Dual-Coil-over-Coilovers-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-70-78_W0QQitemZ330002182790QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33586QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

because of the dual exhaust per cylinder id say that last one is a ducati engine

well its a radial arrangement of 6 cyl banks, and the only 6 cyl based radial i know of is the chrysler plymouth ones used in tanks.

id say that last one is a 60's formula one engine by the exhaust placement. maybe a brm or a brabham bt24

yea, your right. But hatch seals are so expensive and im so broke

I know this subject has been covered alot but I just had an interesting observation with my car. I have recently been getting my car ready to have my girlfriend in it, make it ride a bit smoother, fix the exhaust smell, etc. So yesterday I retuned my carbs and finished sealing up the area around my fuel cell. Before yesterday, I got very mild fumes and I figured they were coming from the rear of my cell where there was about a half inch by 7 inch gap. However, Once I sealed up that hole, I seem to be getting more fumes in the car. At first I thought it was that I might have improperly tuned the car and im just getting more pungent fumes, but it also feels warmer in the car especially in the rear as if from the heat of the exhaust. My hatch seal has never been too good, but now im pretty sure the rear floor of the car is pretty well sealed. What I think happened is that there always was a low pressure area in the rear of the car, and when there was a gap at the cell, it could suck in the cooler, non exhaust-y air. Now that I have sealed up those holes, it seems that the only place for the pressure differential to try to balance out is the rear hatch seal and probably the taillights. This led me to think that there are three possible solutions, completely seal the rear of the car, move the exhaust outlet so it exits out the side or somewhere else, or put in a port for the car to draw in cool clean high pressure air. What do you guys think of my hypothesis?

There was a similar but shorter and less entertaining video up a couple of months ago, but this video has me amazed. I really dont understand how they maintain some of these angles and speeds with front wheel drive cars. In any case, Enjoy! http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6712197296449757948&q=tokyo+drift

id say that last one is the bmw m5/m6 v10

if it were relatively cheap i have a friend who would be very interested.

Yea, the db7 is beautiful. Astons in general are among the best looking and understated cars. I also loved the old jag xk coupe, as it had similar lines and, if im not mistaken, was built on the same platform as the db7.

ok so i get the levitating in near a box thing, but how would you go about doin this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovNwmhpbdlg&search=chris%20angel btw im convinced david blaine is the devil http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXcWwzPw8d8&search=david%20blaine http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytMR9YIFUco&search=david%20blaine http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPszPrxiegA&search=david%20blaine

yea your right, i should. I pretty much just turn all the switches on at once when i get into the car though, so i dont really need to think about it much, but i will eventually

thanks. You'd be surprized what you can come up with to fix sloppy wiring.

heres the lowdown on the switches, I had some kinda of current draw somewhere in the lights, so the first is power to most of the accessories and such. the second is power to the lights, so i can turn them off and have my brake lights not come on despite the brake pedal being depressed, incase i have to uhh.... avoid someone. The third is power to my electric fan, which eventually I will hook up to a temp switch, but i really cant be bothered right now. The fourth is the power to my ricey halo headlights. That little black nub where the cigarette lighter should be is the starter button.

For me it would be my flat black paint, my simple custom center console with quality rust finish, my new halo headlights, and the way my car sounds due to my hollowed out muffler.

that is a bad car..... I would love to own that.