Lockjaw

Nice numbers, a P79 would have done better. J/K HAHA, I just had to throw that out there.

You also will run into the same issue JWT has with the Cobra meter. The ecu can only supply the hot wire 5.15 volts, and once you get beyond that, you are stuck, unless you can hack the ecu and add a .5 volt step like JWT does.

That is a pretty big turbo to keep at 7 psi. I had that problem with mine, except I have the Stage V turbine. What I found out was I needed more tension on the actuator rod. If you are using a dual port WG actuator, you can use a dial a boost to introduce boost to the lower port, and that will help control it. I believe the boost control works opposite of the scale at that set-up. I pulled my actuator off and threaded the rod further in the hopes I could get better control that way, but haven't driven the car to see. I guess I would need Jeff to say if he did anything to the WG hole, I have no idea. I have gotten as high as 24 psi with mine fooling around, so be careful. It has been kind of inconsistent, so I am working on that to see what I can do. Try raising your boost to about 13 or 14 psi and see if you have less creep. You are bleeding a lot of exhaust gas to keep the turbo at 7 psi.

Well I ran it in my ZXT for a while after I went thru the whole brake system figuring synthetic was good. I had problems getting the car to stop at the track running in the 1/4, and I had some semi-metalic pads, although nothing special. I was literally running off the end of the track so I sent Topend an email and he told me to junk the synthetic and run the castrol. So I drained it all out, and replaced the fluid, bled it, and it stops much better. I am going to change over to KVR carbon Fiber pads and see if that helps too, I have them just haven't installed them. The difference in stopping is amazing. I would never run that mess again, as I said, it sucks.

There is also a difference in the ring thickness. I believe the turbo and flat top NA ZX pistons were 1.5 mm while the Z dished pistons were 2mm. If the rings are still on them, the ZX and turbo ones have a layer of chrome on them that is visible, even with the ring removed.

It has been my experience that a new clutch, particularily a stouter one will kill a slave cylinder, and usually I replace all that mess at one shot. Kind of like it the clutch master goes, out, might as well replace the slave, because it won't be far behind. Also make sure you use a good high quality fluid. The Castrol is good, but don't ever use that stinking valvoline synthetic. It sucks. Sorry to hear it is giving you fits. It is likely something simple, and I think you are onto the issue.

Brake fluid makes pretty colored flames too.

All will bolt up.

It is good for killing noxious woody plants too. Like Mimosa's. I put it on the stumps when I cut them down. Yeah it is not enviro friendly, but hey, you got to do what you got to do.

I am going to try that and see what happens. This is really frustrating, but we have a brand new pic and pull that opened up. Should be a good time.

Well do you need to break the clutch in? Some require a break in period, but I don't recall which ones. Good luck with it and shoot me a pm sometime and let me know how you like it, I am going to need a clutch soon I can feel it.

So where is my transistor? Is that the little ignitor thing or what? Damn I hate ignition troubles.

Has anyone ever had this problem with their L28ET. It runs for a while and then loads up and cuts off? It isn't fuel related, and when it happens, I get no spark from the coil, although it has power. after a cool down period it fires right up, but when it cuts off and you try to restart it, it acts like it is mistimed. I replaced the coil, and thought that had fixed it, but no go. It usually only happens when the car is idling for extended periods of time. Ignitor, Dizz, ECU? Any ideas? How hot should the coil get, mine gets pretty warm.

Does it look anything like rifle scope eyebrow?

I know how you feel. I came home the other day to find that my soon to be ex had relieved my backyard of the swing and bench, and of course her father had driven across the yard in his truck, a major no no. Its not so much the stuff taken, its just the act of sneaking in there like the common thief white trash, Jerry Springer show rejects they are that made me mad. Ask and ye shall receive, steal and get caught at my house, and I got some 185 grain .45 caliber dog biscuts to feed you. Hope it is not a big deal to fix Mike. Perhaps you need a machine gun mounted to a motion sensor. Of course a simple sign stating your property is a rattlesnake santuary would probably work too.

I would suspect the pressure regulator. You should also check and make sure the head temp sensor is not disconnected. That will all but kill one of those engines. JWT fixed that on my ecu mod, so now it is not so rich. You can get a gauge at an autoparts store, and I have one mounted in my engine comparment all the time. You never know when you will need it. It is a required diagnostic tool for efi. Time to open the wallet.

Good port work is expensive. Don't get to happy with the grinder either, you can do more damage then good. If you do decide to port it, send to to someone who has done L6 heads, and who has a flow bench.

Hello. You can use any of the 300ZXT clutches, no problem, but if memory serves, they are all 600KG units, but should work on a mildly modified engine. I went to the 300ZXTT pressure plate with the 89 disc, and it works well, but only works with the BW T5 trans. You will have to grind down some of the ribs on the inside of the bellhousing, but it is no big deal. It works well to I might add, and it rated at 780 to 800 KG, far more then the single turbo unit. I did have to have the flywheel redrilled, but it is just the dowel pin holes if memory serves. I am likely going to go with the ACT soon, and you can order one of theirs from Coximports.com, or something like that. I believe they were 299.99 and were rated to 512 ft-lbs. Of course I think that is a solid hub, so if you drive the car alot, you may not want to go there. One thing to keep in mind, on the 300ZXTT clutch, the disc material was different then prior years due to the anticipation that asbestos would not be allowed, and they just aren't very grippy. If you go 300ZXNA, make sure to get the earlier model disc. The right one will look silver. One thing to consider is what Alex said, and just get a 300ZXT preessure plate and the ACT disc. Most souped up clutches have a different material on the disc, not a tweeked pressure plate. Some do, but most just go to a more aggressive material on the disc. That is the only change I made, and it makes a difference. Mine has made moire then a dozen drag passes on the drag radials, and the clutch easily handles that sort of thing. I smoked the stock disc bad, but the nice thing about that is after it cooled down, it worked fine, but I would not have trusted it to make more passes. I would run the big pressure plate if you can since it is easy to replace if it breaks. Just go to the nissan dealer. I am really going to test it soon, race gas, and some Giggle gas. See what happens then.

You know, when I put a ZXT engine in my 240z, it had the annoying habit of the rpms hanging at 3k when I made a little boost and then shifted gears. Partial throttle sort of thing. After about 6 months of playing with it, I removed that valve, and plugged it with some brass fittings, and problem solved.

I have actually eaten it if the guy told me the truth. We used to be in this hunting club that had an annual wild game dinner, and there was some meat there that was claimed to be beaver. It was good too. Didn't smell like fish or taste like chicken though.

I was using the 300ZX coil, but recently switched to the MSD blaster3, and so far no issue's, but I haven't finished the install yet, and I have to reterminate the lead where the coil wire attaches to the coil, since it has the tower of power on it. So far, it seems to work pretty well. The ignitor needs to be grounded I found that out the hard way, and I also installed my old HKS twin power ignition to see if that would help, I was not running it for a while.

I was using a 300ZX coil, but I have been experiencing trouble lately with the car shutting off, so I switched to a MSD Blaster3 coil. So far it seems to work ok.

Do you have the dizzy driveshaft in the proper orientation? Your tach could also be malfunctioning.

I will be interested to see what you run, I know mine with the stage V turbine pulls good, but I have DR's on it, so it doesn't have much of an issue, unless I go from a dead stop. I bet you will run mid to low 12's.

I don't think the ecu matters one way or the other. I have never tried it, but don't see why it would matter.