Lockjaw

Well I ran some 225/50R15 Proxis' autocross tires on the back of my car with the 3.54's and they were short, and it felt like it had a major gear in the back compared to my regular tires. I bet you have 3.54's, I turn about 3000rpms at 70 or a little above that in 5th with a BW and 3.90's. I GPS'd mine so I know it is close. I have done the spin the tire deal, and there is no mistaking a 3.90. You may want to get some cheapie chalk and mark both the wheel and the driveshaft, it will make it easier. Personally I like having 3.90's but my tires are 26 inches tall, I would hate to lose about 3 inches, that would suck.

Me too, and the part is the same, at least according to the part numbers online for advance auto parts. So I guess we will see. Sleeper, just throw some more boost at it.

Hey your time dropped, Congrats.

Yeah I put another coil in there. I have info that it could be the pick up deal in the Dizz, and I heard the 300Zx one interchanges with the 280ZXT one, so if that is the case I should have one to swap in there when I get home. Man I hate these little issue's.

Its not the module unless I managed to buy an bad one. Any other thoughts?

I bet he has a 3.54 since his tires are so short. They are probably only about 22 inches tall, whereas my 235/60R15 Dr's are about 26 inches tall. Nice runs, they must prep your track pretty well too. Damn I need a lighter car.

Here is my take on intercoolers. If you run a huge turbo, say a T series, a side to side makes more sense, since it is more efficient, but the turbo can easily make up for the pressure drop without going outside its efficiency range. On smaller turbo's, like a hybrid a top to bottom makes more sense since it has far less pressure drop, so you can keep the turbo closer to its efficiency range. The longer your tubes, the more effiecient, and the more pressure drop. The ideal situation would be to have a bunch of short tubes. I have a Spearco 2-221, which is a top to bottom, 18.5x6x3.5 with 2.5 in inlets and outlets on the same side, although you can get one with in and outs on opposite sides. It is supposed to flow 1050cfm at 1.5 psi of pressure drop. It is a good unit, and I like it. I have not seen alot of them on Ebay, but I bought mine fro Topend for around 550 bucks new, I made them match price on one of the DSM sites. Road Race Engineering also has a griffin that is roughly the same, the core is a lilttle different, and it is less money, but also a pretty good unit. I think Bell Engineering can make you one any length you like, and theirs are good also. Its really up to you. I chose the spearco.

You don't need custom rods at 500 hp, the stock one's prepped are fine. Shotpeen, bush for floaters, polish and use ARP rod bolts. Pistons are a personal choice, I used Ross Racing, and like them. Its really a matter of personal opinion, and who gives you the better deal. Be prepared for an education when dealing with pistons, and different rods. You need some specific info when placing an order.

No wonder it doesn't want to idle.

I would drain the tank, and put some new fuel in there, and a bottle of STP fuel injector cleaner, in the black bottle. determine if you have spark before going to all that trouble. You may have to work on the fuel pump too, it could be all gummed up. What happens when you turn on the ignition, you should hear the fuel pump come on and pressurize the fuel rail. If it doesn't it is likely gummed up and needs to be cleaned out. Brake clean or carb cleaner should eventually clean it out. You may also have gummed up injectorstoo.

Well you need to decide what engine you are going to run first of all. The RB engines are nice, and make lots of power, but how available are the parts? Whatever you do, to make big power, you need big fuel injectors, and something to control them, and a stand alone is the best way to do that. Spend the money on good parts too, you need a good intercooler, a good turbo, mandrel bent exhaust, fuel pump, etc. Its not cheap. You could easily spend the 5k you want to drop on the motor on the hard parts to support it. The best thing you can do is figure out what your goals are hp wise, and then see how is the best way to get there. If you only want 400hp, you don't need a stroker to get there, in fact, you can get there on a basically stock engine with good engine management and a big turbo. Getting beyond that is more difficult, and right now there are maybe 3 or 4 people on this board making more. It gets way more expensive, and you reach the limits of transmissions, so other alternatives have to be explored. I don't want to bust your bubble, but you need to be able to do alot of the work yourself, or it is going to be an expensive labor bill for your assembly person.

Get the 2.8. You cannot safely bore out the 2.6 to a 2.8 if memory serves. Even if you could, you would have to get custom forged pistions, since I have never seen a 3mm over replacement cast piston for any nissan L6 engine. If for some reason you think 3mm over forged pistons are ok, then do the 2.8 anyway. By the way, all you need is the block and pistons, you have everything else to make a 2.8 with the 2.6 bottom end.

That is the hose covering on a Conquest intercooler, which is what he has in there. In other words, those are stock starquest hoses, nothing special except that outer coating doesn't flex or give much.

I paid 68 dollars for mine from Ross a few years ago.

I don't like the first once since the inlets and outlets face the radiator, that would be a plumbing nightmare, unless you use some dramatic bends. Remember each MANDREL 90 is supposed to reduce flow by 3%. I don't like the way the rest of them do the inlets and outlets either, they are more suited for crossflow heads, and a Z head is not that way. Yes you can make them work, but it would be much better to have a top to bottom style with the inlet and outlet on the same side, or a crossflow one with the inlet and outlets set up to facilitate the plumbing. Putting the IC in there is a piece of cake, plumbing it is a royal PITA. You can easily spend 200 to 300 bucks on mandrel bends, silicon hose, and good clamps, not to mention what someone else would charge you to do it.

Sounds like some good numbers there. I want to dyno mine too.

would have been nice to know you were going to be an idiot, rather then being labeled as one huh? You could change then. Oh well, I think I hit the idiot status on a regular basis, so don't feel all alone.

keep us informed, and good luck.

Only a ZX pan will fit in a ZX, and I think it is the power steering that interfere's. Cody sent me an email about Paul Newmans oil pan is for sale on Ebay, so maybe that would be a cheap way to go if it fit the ZX, although they probably took the power steering off. Man I could have told you if you would have asked, I tried to use a non ZX pan in my car, and NO GO. Pissed me off too.

Match the inlets on the IC. should be 2.5 or 2.25. 2.5 will be more difficult, and is what I am running. Man it was a plumbing pain, but it is there now, so I am not changing it.

Well when I get my divorce settled, and see where I will be with the house, I will have to get one. I like it.

Its on the ring, and if you look at the ring from the top, especially when it is off the piston, it is very distinct. Chrome rings are the factory replacements, and are very durable, especially as far as running without in air filter. They are also hard to seal up if your cylinders aren't round. FWIW.

Looks good to me. I will be happy to test one out for ya.

I would use the stock engine as a test platform and get your set-up dialed in before rebuilding the motor. I should have done that with my set-up since I subjected my motor to all the gremlins that plague an installation like this. The stock engine is plenty stout for handling what you want to do just make every mod with growing in mind. Don't think it will be good enough, you will always want more power. Good luck.

A nice rebuild of the stock engine would be all you need. Run ARP rod bolts if you want, I like them, and that is the weak link if there is one in a nissan engine. Run a good quality intercooler, no Starion or volvo ones, and conmvert to the Z31 setup. Ran a 3 in mandrel bent exhaust, and you should be good to go. Run a nice hybrid turbo of V trim or H trim in T04b and 50 trim or larger in T04e and you will have all the power you can feed. Just try to keep in mind one thing. POwer is addicting, and when you find out more power is available by raising the boost, you will want to. So do everything with expansion in mind. 250 won't be enough, trust me.