Lockjaw

Well don't be to disappointed. I routinely put it on cars like C4 and C5 corvettes, and my first pass was a 14.1 at 101. Drag radials help, I like mine. WHat is more important is good track prep, and running on days where the dew point isn't messing up the track. Your mph are great, you need some traction. NA cars leave hard too. I used to launch mine from 5500 rpms up.

You may get a high 12. I ran a 12.93 on regular street tires and pump gas on my old turbo, but I had a 1.9 60 foot time, and I was not leaving hard, I don't know really how I managed that. I figured with DR's, I would drop alot, but I didn't. I have run a best 1.8xx 60 foot time, and have really only dropped about 3 tenths of a second, and picked up a few MPH. In fact I dropped to 12.7xx's the first time out on DR's, and ran 12.65 on a hotter day. Then swapped turbo's and put in a different intercooler, and only dropped to a 12.59, but that was back on pump versus race gas. Jersey's car runs good, no doubt about it, but I would consider his to be a stout runner rather then the norm. I have known several people running the stock turbo in the early Z cars, and they usually all hit a wall around a 13.1. I hope you run what you want, but the faster you go the harder it is to go faster. And work on the first 60 ft, you will either run your time or not based upon that. I launch about 3000 to 3500, and don't slip the clutch, and that gets me the best results. One day I am going to do one about 4500 and see what breaks. HEHE

I hate to burst bubbles, but a 12.5 is getting down. You guys have much lighter cars, which helps, but you have to really get some good traction, and have a good 60 foot time to get down there. YOu have to either have really sick power, or get everything just right. not saying it cannot be done, and I think I could run a lot better if I was not pushing 3150 pounds down the track, but just the same, mid 12's takes some work. Good luck with your runs.

2.5 mandrel would be better then 3 inch crush bent in my opinion. You want smooth transitions, especially in turns. Put it this way, a mandrel loses only 2 percent per 90 degree bend. Also get a good straight thru muffler like a Hooker Max flow or dyno max or something. It won't hurt you at all power wise, and it will keep you from getting a ticket. My maxflo was only 50 bucks.

No I think you need mandrel bent 3 inch, and that makes a huge difference, even if it is just under the car to the back. You lose at least 20 percent on crush bent. Spend the money, do it right the first time. make sure there are no lips in there either, they cause turbulence. If you buy the stuff, most shops will weld it up for around 100 bucks. Its money well spent, and in my humble opinion, the best bang for the buck mod to do on a turbo Z.

Yes, and it is a sweet turbo. I think I need more clutch to be honest, but time will tell. Let me give you some perspective. The 60 trim flows about 50 pounds per minute. if I remember correctly, the 60-1 flows 70, so that is a pretty big jump. There is nothing in between that I have seen yet, other then perhaps the new garrett wheels. I like the 60 trim, and have yet to reach its limits that I can tell. I just wish I had all this stuff in a 240z.

I think the NA 5 speed is going to hurt you a little bit, but the 3 inch exhaust will help alot. I ran a 13.5 105 on my set-up on street tires in a Zx before swapping to a 3 inch exhaust, and dropped to a 12.93 at around 111. I was running around 18 to 19 psi. You will probably be about right on what you guessed, if the track is hooking and you can launch at higher rpms, then you may run a little better. I usually launch around 3500, and have found that dumping the clutch gets me the best times. Good luck, and I would like to know how the clutch does.

I have a spacer, 1/2 inch, and I do have a 60 AR housing. No problems in the ZX.

I have the 60trim T04E with a stage V turbine, and it is a 60 AR compressor housing, and I used a spacer. I had no problems with the intercooler fitment, and I am considering replacing the compressor wheel with a 60-1. It is a great wheel. I have full boost by 3200 rpms, very good response, and lots of power up top.

You can use sealed power rings, they are slightly less expensive, but chrome like the factory ones.

I would like one with an automatic.

I wouldn't do it, I would get a larger turbine wheel instead.

I had mine running a nice 17 psi and had some yo boy in a honda want some, so I popped it down into 4th and hammered it, shifted to 5th, and woooweeee, 24 psi. Good thing I had some race gas in the tank, otherwise I am sure I would be replacing something. I haven't broken anything on a turbo engine yet, but I broke rings and pistons consistently on NA motors. I guess they don't appreciate being launched at 6k with stock parts.

My stock one is working fine. What are you doing to tear yours up?

My stock turbo always did that with the stock WG actuator. You could not give me one of those again. Porting out the WG hole a little would probably help.

Turbo 1 will require an external wastegate. Turbo 2 is a t4 flange, which will require machine work to weld a flange to the factory exhaust manifold, and an external wastegate. Turbo 3 will bolt right up, you cab get a flange for the exhaust anywhere, and fab up a 3 inch exhaust. It will not connect to the Nissan downpipe. The intercooler is nice, but very wide, make sure you won't have fitment issue's before bidding.

Jersey, my GPS could not find any satelites, however, I did check the speedo for accuracy after I put the 3.90's in, and I know it is very close if not spot on. Anyway, at 3000 rpms, I am running 55 mph, and at 4000 I am running 70mph. I normally turn about 6500 crossing the line in the 1/4 mile

Oh and I crushed a fpr once, and promptly had to go buy a new one.....so if money is tight, you may want to try something else.

WB=wideband HAHA, I couldn't resist.

Malvern racing has one too. And I want a deeper sump pan next time around.

Jersey, if I can find the GPS I will test it and see. Where did I put it?????? Old age sucks.

Geez and I thought you were going to make fun of my "shortcomings" I am turning around 6500 rpms in 4th thru the traps. It was pretty flat up there with the stock cam, and I was hoping this little crower would help extend things a little more. I am either going to have to shift into 5th, or put 3.54's in there. My nawz is going to put me into 5th, I bet you money. So lets start a pool and bet on what kind of rear Jersey has.

Well it was the CAS, and the 300ZXT one is not exactly the same. The 280ZXT one screws in from the underside, the 300ZXT screws in from the top. Such a dilemma. So I went to the hardware store, got 3 slightly longer screws, and 3 matching poly lock bolts, and here we are. 1 hour later, good to go. Now if I can just figure out how to remove red locktite, I can raise the idle. Its always something.