Lockjaw

Cody what are you using for an actuator? Is it the stock nissan one? If so I think you need to change to a dual port one. I never could get the stock actuator to work right on my car, with a stock turbo, so I doubt seriously it will work with a hybrid. Also as Yo2001 said, threading the rod and making the thing adjustable helps. I have never had to modify the hole in my turbine housing on my old turbo or this one I have now, and I never had creep problems, although I will say if my car was going to spike, it was going to be in second. I never had spike issues in any other gear. Going to the MBC on the bottom port has all but cured my issue's. Perhaps the Profec could do the same. I also agree with scottie about welding or porting.

I think it has something to do with a .600 lift cam. Yeah track time that sucker and let me know what it runs. I would really like to know.

I would say you got good vacuum, I would check the tps, although i cannot recite the proceedure. You need a voltmeter to do it, and any decent manual should show you the proceedure. You need O2 info too. They will want that. There is also a part number on your chip in the ecu, if you talk to clark, he will want that. It should be handwritten in pen. Make sure you have the vaccuum port on the TB dealt with if yours has one, and I would also make sure all my ground connections on the harness are connected. After that, sounds like a call is in order. Don't talk to Ben, he's an idiot. Talk to Jim or Clark. It is probably nothing major, they may make a minor timing adjustment, thats all I ever had done when I got mine. Since you are so close to me ie, in tennessee, I would think my data would be good, and Clark would know what that is.

Send me a pm with your questions.

Check to make sure the head temp sensor on the passenger side of the head is connected. If it is, and appears to be working, check the fuel pressure and make sure your FPR is not going bad.

That is a sweet looking car for sure. I like the wheels and color. I need to redo mine or really find a nicer body to work with, preferably without T-tops.

Pics of the intercooler would be nice, and I would like to know your spec's on the cam and turbo. maybe who ground the cam. I will be interested to see what you run this time, your previous numbers are very impressive.

I bet that car is going to be slow. Nice looking work there, wish I had that much money and free time.

You should be fine at 6 psi on the NA motor, provided you run 93 octane gas. Are you planning on swapping the ecu for the turbo over too? That would be a good idea if you ask me. Not sure if the harnesses are the same between the NA and the turbo, but I doubt changing the harness would be a big deal. Be sort of a challenge if you ask me. Of course you could have JWT mod the ecu for you, that would give you some more power, and increase your safety margin. Something to think about anyways. PM me if you need to.

I believe it is a 60AR.

Maxima head has round ports, but I believe you could use a square port header without issues. You could convert the NA afm to a turbo one by putting the guts in there.

Is your O2 sensor in the downpipe? If so, when the car is warmed up, check the voltage on it, it should be around.47 volts, if it is not, your TPS is not adjusted properly. A better way would be to find the wire at the ecu and back probe it and see what you get there. What happens at idle is you are supposed to get a constant voltage number, but when the TPS is in the off idle position, it should make voltage fluctuations occur as the ecu adjusts the mixture to keep it close to 14.7 to 1. So you will see the voltage go up and down. You also need to make sure you have no vaccuum leaks. It is so important I cannot stress that enough. I would also check your fuel pressure with a gauge, and make sure you are at 36 psi with no signal going to the fuel pressure regulator. How much vaccuum does the car pull when idling? I would expect to see 19 to 20 inches, if less , you probably have a leak. I would set the timing to 20 degree's. One other thing I would do is clean the connections at the ecu and the plugs going into the ecu with brake clean. Also while you are at it, make sure the chopper wheel in the Dizz doesn't have any trash in the little holes since it is optical. Also make sure you have the breather tube on the top of the valve cover plumbed into the line in front of the turbo, and that the PCV is hooked up and working. If after all of that, you still have problems then you need to get ahold of someone out there and see what they say. I will tell you upfront I think Ben is an idiot, but you probably need to talk to Jim or Clark. Jim is less pleasant then Clark, but either should be able to tell you what else to check. They are going to ask you to do just about everything I have listed, so it helps to be able to tell them what you have done, and what you found out. I never had any stumbling problems. One other thing, did you replace the o-rings in the intake when you replaced the injectors? I did, and if you didn't, that would be a good idea.

Maybe I can afford the last one, divorces are expensive.

[quote="De Schmaydee ....at this point i only have 3 probs.....the unrelated?...back-pressure prob which should be fixed w/the bypass .........s Lets see you are going to put a compressor bypass on the turbine side? I would like to see that, how about posting the pic's when you get it done. That would be a first.

I have a 300ZX coil on my car, and it sparks to well over 20 psi with stock gapped Bosch dual electrode plugs for an M3. They are platinum plugs FWIW, and yes I know an M3 is a BMW. The heat range is the same as what Nissan calls for.

I think I need to look into that, how much could you bore the block over? If you could go to 86mm, that would rock.

On what, the throttle body or the intake runners? On the tb, just go in until it opens up, on the runners, I wouldn't worry about going in more then an inch or so.

Doesn't that just suck too? I hated it when I hit it, which is why I had it moved to 7k on my JWT ecu. I have hit it before, but it is much less noticeable, and not so abrupt. It is really easy for me to hit too, I got a t5, 3.90's, and a cam, so when the boost is up there, blam, rev limit.

It was a custom grind, but if I gave you the part number, they could grind you one. I guess someone ordered it and didn't pay for it or something like that. I like it though, it gives the car a healthy sound without being choppy. Kind of makes people wonder what's up, they don't see any turbo badging, but it does have a big exhaust. I have a little higher compression now then stock anyway, probably around 8 to 1. I am 1mm over, and have flat tops down about 10 thous. My head is a solid lift one to, you could not give me a hydraulic lifter head. I had one and it sucked. I would like to have them grind another cam for me with more lift and see what happens. I don't want to get to radical because then I think I will run into issue's with the engine wanting to turn to 8k, and I am not comfy with that idea. I want it to last, and I don't want it to become a pig on the bottom side either. I see your point about the compression and all that with the other cam. I did not try raising the boost, but it was still lame compared to the stock cam, even when the stock cam ran lower boost. Of course I am going from memory on all that. I still kind of think that there won't be to much difference between one turbo cam versus another. I would like to see someone test them and report the results. I mean James likes his, TimZ likes his, Sleeper liked his, the guy with the ISKY likes his, I like mine, be nice to see what each one does. Same engine, just swap out cams.

My ZXT ecu cut the fun about 6400, and it was like hitting a wall. You sure did not want it happening if you were racing someone. If yours is lower then that, I would check your tach for accuracy.

Are you talking about porting the intake manifold? If so, match it to the gasket(s). You just want to make the transitions smooth.

I don't think it matters which intake you use personally. I would use the early model non - egr one just becuase it looks cleaner, and will ultimately go that route with my turbo engine. Just make all your transitions smooth.

Yes more pics would really be nice. Not to many ZX people with fast cars. It would be nice to know some of the spec's on the turbo, and cam. Very nice Hp and torque numbers.

Well I may be an idiot as far as you are concerned, but I got a mid 12 second car, successfully running the system you can't install,what do you have? And FWIW, you got 3 posts in the efi section, one here, and one on Zcar all blasting JWT. I don't need to hide in the bushes as you say to tell you don't know what you are doing, you have proven that already with questions about the air regulator, the intercooler, and the fact you think a Tec3 would be easier to install then a JWT set-up. Not to mention you think the compressor section has backpressure, that is the exhaust system. I have been doing turbo stuff with Z cars for better then 10 years, and I dare say I was one of the first few people to put a ZXT engine in a 240. I have built plenty of engines, run cams, different heads, you name it. I know what I am talking about, and thats the real difference between you and I, I know what I am talking about, and you only know enough to be dangerous. As far as trashing a business, it's wrong when the person doing the trashing isn't even capable of installing the sytem. You would be doing the same thing if you had a Tec3 because you wouldn't understand it either. And as I said already, JWT recommends having a tech install their system, becuase the average Joe doesn't have the capability, ie you. And just so you know, I have not had or felt the need to stoop to name calling as you have. I simply call it like I see it. If you don't like it, I hate it for you, but the truth is, you need to quit complaining and start listening, or take the stinking set-up off your car, and put it back to stock. Whether you like me or not doesn't matter to me at all. I could care less. But I am not going to let you continue to trash a system I have had good success with because you lack the skills to install it.

Yeah I was using it in a stock turbo engine. It cammed like a you know what too. It should have still made good power once on boost, but it didn't. I know it had overlap, although how much is anyone's guess. But I think the extra duration on the exhaust lobe was hurting it too. Of course I never got that cam to run right except in one motor. It never performed well in any others. My cam that I am using now is a single pattern one and it works good. You really can't tell its there, except at idle once it warms up. Just a slight chop. But you can feel it when you hit it. I can't tell when it comes up though, it just seems like the stock one only it rev's higher. Feels stouter thru the mid range too. Cam choice is a science, but alot will go in there and work, and there may be 10 hp between 3 or 4 different one's. Anyway, mine is 428 lift, .218 duration at .050 (advertised is 288 yeah right) and a 110 degree lobe centerline. I would have liked more lift, the duration doesn't bother me so much. I need to see about having crower grind me one with more lift, like say 500, and leave everything else the same. Wonder what that would do?