Lockjaw

Well I can answer the turbo question, in a generality, it was a t4, and I would say a B series if I had to guess. Corky Bell would likely know. Jeff's head is ported, I know that from talking to him, but not the details. I agree with you about the powerband thing. I just put a mild cam in my car and it is a different animal, still comes on hard about the same rpm, just carries it to the 7k redline nicer. Of course I am not ported. I would also speculate that the 600 hp the electromotive car made was flywheel hp, so people like James and Jeff are already pretty close. I want to go to one of the new ball bearing turbo's eventually, and see if I can get good power from 3000 to about 6800 to 7200. Having a nice wide powerband would have to make the car faster then just some big high peak number. Making sure all the flow paths are smooth would help too. One of the things I am considering is using the 240 crank this time, and boring out to 89mm and see what happens. Should really buzz up there.

Glad I didn't post pics of my welds. That is a nice looking unit, and agree with Sleeper, run a 3 inch mandrel out the back.

Limits suck.

I agree. In my 240, the stock efi pump would work with the stock return line, but once we went to walbro pumps, man they were way to small. I ran a .5 inch copper line for fuel and used the fuel line as the return, not that it was necessary. If you want to have fun and go fast, time to upgrade.

I think if you want to turn some RPM's, you really need to have a lot of flow available thru the runners on the head since the valves are not open as long as rpms increase. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

I am the guy who's JWT system works, and you have solicited my help in the past. As for making smart ass comments, that can be arranged, if thats what you like. What you are doing by trashing someone's business is not right, and I think the real issue is you don't know enough about what you are doing, which is what I was trying to work you thru. You can keep on complaining if you like, but that won't get your car working. Listening to some good advice from people running the sytem will, even if you don't like what they say. And going the Tec3 route would be worse for you trust me. You would have to take the damper and front cover off, have them machined for the trigger wheel, mount the hall effect sensor, probably build the bracket for it, you would have to make a harness for the thing, and then program it, which requires a laptop and some dyno time. You would also have to make a cover for where the distributor goes, and then you are not even guaranteed all your instruments will work, like the tach. And I got to say, if you are having this much trouble with JWT's set-up, what makes you think the TEC3 would be easier? Plus I believe the TEC unit uses GM sensors, so you would have to adapt the TPS set-up to work. Its not as simple as you think. If you want some help, PM me. You want to argue some more, PM me, but either way, I am done trying to help you if all you are going to do is complain about how the system sucks. The system works fine, and there are enough people on this board getting good results out of it to prove that. Is it the ultimate set-up for a Z car with a turbo, no, and I have said so in the past.

Yes and it will be a slow spooling pig too. I had a Rayjay on my car from the old BAE set-ups, and man that sucker spooled slow. It made some power when it came up, but it was like you are five and waiting for Christmas all over again. It takes forever. Be cool to play with it and see what you could get it to do. With a holley on there, you could stick a plate system under there and really give it a boost, or make it go BOOM.

Yeah I hate the rev limiter in the stock ecu. Mine is set at 7k with the JWT. I had an ecu that would sometimes let the engine go to 7k plus, but it seemed like it only would do that for a short period of time after I put a new cap and rotor on. Go figure. Like to know what your turbo does.

You can get mad all you want, but the bottom line is you are making the whole deal more complicated then it needs to be. And while you are complaining, lets not forget you are trashing a system on an open forum, a system that is set-up by the premier Nissan ecu hacker/tuner in the USA. Not that I think its the best system invented, but it works good for me, JeffP, Cody, and at least one other person, as yours is configured. You have posts in this section, the efi section, and on Zcar all complaining about the system, and you don't even understand how to test the air regulator. See the point? You need to calm down, quite fussing, and get the kinks worked out, one at a time. Anything you put in there besides going back is going to require work, or paying someone else to do it.

Why not get the spearco 221 core? Is is 18.48x6x3.5 top to bottom and flows 1050 cfm. Thats what I got. It works good too. Thats 656 hp according to Tims calculator. I know which way I would go.

Isn't imitation the sincerest form of flattery? Personally, and I know it is not my business, but who cares, its just a picture? I would like to add my suggestion for a 280zx upgrade as well. Mine sucks in the stopping department, but it is going to get some KVR pads and see if that helps.

No it was the NA cam.

81-83 280ZX turbo

I don't think the wastegate opening is going to do anything but slow boost response. Also, I have tried a "higher" overlap cam in my turbo engine, and it sucked. Specifically it was the Schneider 460 lift split pattern cam MSA sells, what is duration, 270/280 or something like that. Spool up took forever. It ran ok once it was spooled up, but the turbo cam was way better. Maybe if you opened the lobe centerline angle up, you could get away with more duration. I got a little crower I like. I knew it would work well in a turbo application too.

A B would be better then a straight t3 as far as flow, any idea what the spec's are on the wheels in the turbo's. This is kind of intriging me, since no one would expect one of those to be fast. Wonder what the limits are? I .48 ar should be fine on a 1.8, unless you are going for insane power, then I would step up to the .63 . Make sure to run a good exhaust, and try to pull the air in from a cool source.

Yeah I may be, but it will be a little while, are you in a hurry?

Hey I got a new job, start on Monday the 16th. I am going to be the accountant at the Barber Motorsports Museum and Racetrack, which is here in Bham. So if any of you are coming here to race, shoot me an email and maybe we can hook up and shoot the breeze.

I put about 2800m miles on my 2000 Silverado, and then switched over to Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, and I change it when the computer tells me to, and I am not using any that I know of. I just started using the Castrol Syntec in 10w30, and I swear I get better mileage with it then Mobil 1. I have never been able to keep synthetic in a Z motor, but I know keeping the rev's under 3k when driving helps with oil consumption. Turn it over 3k, and watch it go bye bye.

She can work on my Z anytime.

I hate the noise from the SC. It gets loud as the revs get up. How is it from inside the car?

Either will fit, but the ET would be more fun to drive.

What are you going to do with the 4 speed James?

I would get a better pump, although if you are using the stock return line on your 240, it may not be large enough, and will cause problems for you. Another thing to consider in the future is the pick up out of the tank. Fuel injected cars are generally larger, and I had mine enlarged on my 240. I don't know what you are using for a coil, but I like the nissan one's from a 300ZX. They work well, and I never have to gap my plugs in tighter, even at 20psi. May be worth looking into. Just use the ZX ignitor, and wire the thing up, if you connect wrong, it won't start. I am using a stock fuel filter, and I also thought it was a restriction, but if you think it is, pull the hose off the top, and turn on the pump. Man alive. I think you are going to be real close to 12's when you get done. The 3 inch exhaust will really perk things up, I assure you. I am sure the NPR cooler will help too.

Oh and I don't even have an O2 connected in my car. You don't even need that for now.

Why are you messing with that? I have not ever touched the diagnostic deal in my ecu. Put it back where it goes and leave it there. Man you are really making this more complicated then it needs to be. Why not just put the J tube on there, and concentrate on getting the ECU and stuff working properly before moving on to other things? Run lower boost, don't worry about the BOV, and get it running right. I would not be to worried about the cold start either. The easiest way to check it is take it off the car and stich it in the freezer. after an hour if you can see thru the hole, it works. The 12 volts that goes to it is to help heat it up and make it close, so it really isn't critical to even have it connected. I don't want to sound like I am being critical, but JWT does recommend having a technician install their set-up. You have to be very systematic about how you install it, you are taking a system from several different cars and putting it in a car that it is not supposed to be in. That doesn't always go smoothly and makes it complicated. Why do you think speed shops charge so much money to do this kind of work? Its a PITA, and it always takes longer then they planned. I would start with getting the car running and timed properly with the J tube. Send the intercooler back to Bell and make him fix it, you cannot have leaks with a MAF car or it will never run right. Get the timing right, and drive it around and see what it does. Then start making changes, one at a time so you can keep track of the results. Repeat after me, I will not make more then one change at a time, and will test that change thoroughly before making another one.