Lockjaw

Run it and see, for 550 how could you go wrong?

Hey Jeff, there was a guy at our local drag strip running high 10's with supra TT and he was not running really wide slicks, so I would hope you would be able to put the power down. Be nice to see someone drop to low 10's in a street car. I would also be interested in how the large injectors work.

It does it when the intercooler connected? That is the wastegate actuator, and it is much more pronounced when you have an intercooler. Add a BOV and plumb it back in and it get louder.

One of the things I am really interested in is the ceramic coatings now available, and would they help with the temps created with a non crossflow head. You are right about turning 8k, although perhaps you could make that easier by going with a 240 crank, but you loose stroke. I checked a long time ago, and if I remember correctly, the skyline engine has a 240 stroke with a 280 bore, or there abouts. Seems to me if you are set on turning one up, they going to a shorter stroke would benefit you. James said something that seems to be going over everyone's head. The intake and exhaust ports only flow so much, and that is the limiting factor. Unless there is another alternative, you are stuck. Right now I have an unported head, and am running a mild cam that is not much larger then stock lift wise, perhaps has more duration. The idle is good, and it chops every once in a while, although my idle mix is richer with this cam then stock. Don't know why, haven't really checked. I am going to get my fogger running and see about letting JWT have the ECU control it. I think that will help. As for a 10 second L6, there was someone in Cali with one, they used to feature it in Turbo, well I take that back, it was an early model z. There is some guy in North or South Caroline running 10's and James is really close. We plugged JeffP's car in a calculator, which is bench racing, but it said he could run low 11's at about 124 if memory serves, on his old numbers.

Every bookstore I have been in required me to leave my backpack up front. I did not get escorted around though.

Take that thing to the strip.

Yeah turbonetics has one, although I am not sure I buy that story. Have you called another supplier to find out if it is true? I had an 11 blade one, and it worked pretty well, so I would not be all bent out of shape, but they should have told you what they were doing BEFORE they sent it to you. That is bad customer service if you ask me. I'm thinking discount or something.

Hey I got a greddy, and it doesn't have a sender box. It has two plugs in the back, one for the probe, and one with 4 wires for illumination and such. If you want, I will scope it out and let you know when I get home. If I forget (its easy for me to do), shoot me an email. Its not hooked up yet, although the probe is run, and all that. I am lazy.

Mine has negative overlap.

10 blade.

You dyno that pig yet?

Stage III

Nice looking unit. You can really see the newer tech when looking at the compressor wheels, the B wheel has thick blades, the BB E has thinner ones with more curve to them. I would run that sucker.

Now thats impressive. The sooner you put it back together, the sooner you have boost.

It makes a diff on my car to vent it back in front of the turbo. Venting to the atmosphere created a rich stumble that sucked. Slowed me down too.

Turn that boost up to about 7 psi and see what happens. 8)

Mikuni's are better in a blow thru application.

I use the peirburg from Cartech, and it is a 200lph pump, it handles high pressures, and it quiet. It cost 200 bucks when I bought it. as for a power level for CV axles, I think what is more critical is the traction you get. If you just spin, I don't know that you need them as much as if you hook up and launch hard. I would run them though just because I hate dealing with broken U-joints.

You would have to get James to help you plumb that monster too. Geez it gives me a headache just thinking about trying to plumb that up.

You need to give particulars on your engine before anyone can give you an idea of what the compression should be. Most service manuals like a haynes will give you that information. My turbo engine has 145 to 150 psi. Really that number is pretty useless, the main thing you want to check is even compression across the cylinders. Different guages will give you different results.

I got you a free MBC, just push the WG actuator back a little, and viola, more boost. Just remember you got to get rid of that dumb relief valve to run more boost.

The 60 is the AR of the compressor housing. Can you post a pic of the turbo? I might be inclined to run it it I could figure out what wheels it has.

I would not use an e88 on a turbo engine. Thats just me though. If you want to turbo it, I would run a P90, or some P90a's have solid lifters, based upon what I was told in another thread on this board. JUst don't run the hydraulic P90a.

I like the Tial one's. That is what I am going to run when I go to external. I would run the 40mm, I don't think you need to get bigger then that. I would also plumb the dump back into my exhaust, I hate the racket going to atmosphere. I had one that did that, and people know you got a turbo with that.

I got a little crower I got off their garage sale deal for 60 bucks. It is .428 lift and .218 duration at 050 with a 110 degree lobe centerline. Advertised duration is 288 degree's. It pulls to 7k ( me rev limiter stops the fun), and idles fairly smooth, there is just enough there to let someone who knows whats up there is an non stock cam there, but most others won't notice. I got a friend who hasn't noticed yet. I would have to hunt for the part number, but it feels good. I just run it with stock springs, and am pretty sure it would work without having to get different lash pads. I used 150's but I put resurfaced delta cams rockers in there, and they are thinner then stock one's. i could have used my stock lash pads. I think they would get 180 to do you a billet copy, and this is really the same cam comp cams said they would grind me, although they were going to open up the lobe centers to 112 degree's. The stock cam is cut on 109 degree centers, so I don't know if that makes much difference until you get a lot of duration. The idea is not to have over lap.