junglist

Well, I'm looking at it from my perspective which is attempting to rebuild and retro-mod an entire car all at one time and due to that sometimes the pricing of certain parts makes them out of reach due to trying to build an entire car. You of course cannot buy brand new mustache bars, but you can get a used one, blast it and powdercoat it for significantly less than a new one from Kameari and functionally its the same thing. I personally cannot control fluctuating currency and I have to look at things as a person currently living in the USA with no other way of buying parts than ordering them from the USA with USA dollars. I know its not Kameari's fault that prices are high because of exchange rates. However, it is not the end user's fault in the USA that due to those exchange rates some of their parts prices are somewhat unreasonable for what the part is. I personally don't try to do things half-assed at first only to have to re-buy the same parts later. Sometimes it happens and sometimes I have to make do with what I can afford for a certain thing. Am I running a used $80 280ZXT turbo manifold rather than a $1300 Greddy manifold, you bet I am...however I did buy a brand new Garrett turbo and brand new Greddy BOV and brand new Tial wastegate. I've bought all of my suspension components from aftermarket companies in North America such as Modern Motorsport and Techno Toy Tuning because they are high quality, proven and reasonably priced. Would I love to be able to go to Japan and buy up all of the amazing aftermarket Japanese parts that I need? Hell yes. I would do that in an instant if I could afford that.

Its hard to justify the cost for certain Kameari items such as a R200 mustache bar which is basically a stock piece with the poly bushings for $400+ when you could get the same setup for less than $100. A thermostat for $100+ makes no sense. Some of the suspension pieces like the steering knuckles for $500 you can get from Arizona Z Car for $200 for the same quality. The control arms are $850 and you can get billet ones from Arizona for $600 or similar ones from Techno Toy for $350 just like the "pillow tension rods" which are $775 but Techno Toy sells awesome ones for $225. However, Kameari makes some great motor parts which no one else makes and they are definitely worth the money when you can afford them. Edit: In the end, its GREAT that there are still companies making such a breadth of performance parts for such an old car. It'd be terrible if they stopped.

Go to my post here to see a side by side comparison of the 17" RBR's next to 16" RB's: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57565-rota-rbrb-r-4x1143-17-z-offset-wheels/page__view__findpost__p__853897 Maybe soon I can take shots of them actually on a car for comparison purposes.

I have a full set of used Eibach 240Z springs I'd sell. Send me a PM.

Anyone else have one they are willing to let go of for cheap?

It looks great. How high off the ground did you have the car? Did you lay underneath it to blast it? How long did the actual blasting process take you?

I've seen Z's with Z32 calipers. I have a set myself, just didn't feel like getting the brackets made to adapt them. They are the same calipers that the Subaru WRX Group N uses...obviously just saying Nissan instead. Should be a pretty nice setup.

Looking good, man.

Where are you getting your adel clamps? Something special or just what you can pick up at Home Depot/Lowes? Are you going to just use self-tapping screws?

I need a passenger side steering knuckle from a 240Z. I don't know for sure if the 260's or 280's had the same or different steering knuckles although they probably did. I'm only looking for the passenger side. Mine is bent from a previous owners fender bender and I only found that out after taking it to the machine shop to have it drilled out for my custom tie-rods. I'll pay via paypal and cover shipping to my house in 20152. Let me know if you have one for me, thanks.

Ha, I think I posted some pics of my roadster's and some other stuff in that thread. I used to be a hugely active member on Honda-Tech. Join date in 2000!

You can get these pretty readily in Japan or Yahoo Japan auctions. I don't know of a source of them in the USA. You could try e-mailing the guys at www.rhdjapan.com

Would be awesome if someone else offered something like this.

Looks cool, I plan on running something nearly identical with the divorced port 2.5" to 3" exducer, 3" exhaust. I bought the flange, just haven't gotten to plumbing the car yet. I have a brand new Garrett T3/T04E 0.63 A/R turbo. I also have a knockoff Tial wastegate, mine has a Tial spring and I smoothed out all the casting and rough edges inside of it. I didn't have a ton of money at the time when I bought it, I figure I'll buy a Tial in the future.

Got mine the same way. I haven't run the car with it, but I was pretty psyched to find it. With a 16" fan, shroud and CSR electric water pump I'm confident the car will have proper cooling capacity for track days.

How much did that run you? I'm about to order all new R200 bearings shortly. Price from Courtesy is $47.16 http://www.courtesyparts.com/bearing-ba-p-351815.html

There is a red 240ZG currently in the "Online Dealership". Better hurry might change any time.

I bought Mugen pedal covers meant for a Honda and adapted them to fit. I had them on my old Integra and loved them.

Part #'s I have for the Clevite/Perfect Circle rings written down in my notebook are as follows 280ZX pistons - flat top: 41577 old part#:12033-P7900 280ZX pistons - dish top: 41435 old part#:12033-P9010 I bought some myself and they are pretty nice rings. In case you want it, Clevite rod bearings is CB966P and Clevite main bearings is MS-1106P. I bought those also.

I also have a set of the 280ZXT companion flanges. I'll send you a PM.

You can still get Ishino head gaskets for like $20-25, which are the same as OEM Nissan...Ishino makes them for Nissan.

In my dailer driver Volvo 850 T-5R the intercooler inlet/outlet are at the top and bottom of the intercooler and come out straight like so: ...they are also plastic end tanks, one positive is that the intercooler is really light.

If you are spending that much for a full rebuilt stroker motor, I'd go ahead and replace everything I possibly could on the engine and around it. New plugs & plug wires, new distributor cap & rotor, new engine & transmission mounts or reinforce them with urethane, new fuel lines, new fuel filter, refurbish/clean/benchmark the injectors (if its not carbed), clean the A/F meter with MAF cleaner, clean the inside of the throttle body or upgrade to a larger one, new thermostat, new heating lines, new radiator hoses, new upgraded alternator (or have the current one checked/cleaned), new/rebuilt starter. But thats just me and what I did and I didn't have too tight a budget at the time, and I hadn't been in a hurry to finish my project so I accrued the parts over a couple months. I'd also flush the steering rack and put in new fluid, new grease everywhere, new boots if it needs them. I'd forget about the stock clutch fan and get an electric fan kit and possibly build a shroud for it or adapt a stock 280zx plastic shroud for that stock look. Your radiator should be fine...fix any bent fins, flush it and clean it inside and out to make sure there are no leaks and if it goes bad later its not hard to replace on a Z with the engine in. If you want to refresh the look Eastwood sells thin radiator specific paint that doesn't retain heat. The flywheel bolts should be fine, I haven't heard of those being a weak point and I know Tony D said he used regular L28 flywheel bolts on one of his builds. I'm not sure about the clutch, it really depends on how much power the engine is making after the rebuild...a "Stage 1" may not even be strong enough if its making enough power/torque...better to ask your builder that if he is familiar with L-series engines and has built strokers before.

The guy that runs datsunspirit.com has motorcycle carbs on his Z.