junglist

Looks incredible. Way better than my hulk of a '66 1600. Mine does have a U20 Motor with Mikuni's and a 5 speed in it though its not currently running.

Do you know the part #'s off hand? How much do they run?

Looks pretty good!

Thanks for this write-up. I was looking for an old Greddy Profec-B, but now I just might have to try this out. Please update us if you have any issues with this boost controller.

http://www.eastwood.com/usc-all-metal-gallon.html - some explanation there. I've never worked with it, but I've considered buying it too.

I guess when I had tried uploading a .pdf file before it was too big. Zzeal's template is now uploaded as a .pdf in the Downloads section.

I wanted to let you guys know, I spoke with Zzeal and he sent me a copy of his template via mail. I scanned it into .pdf format...printed it out to verify that it is the same size and it is exact to his original. He said it was fine for me to post it here, that he just wanted to help people out. If anyone wants a copy in .pdf format send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll forward you a copy. I'd love to upload it and put it in the downloads section of the site but the forum doesn't accept .pdf attachments.

If you are just looking for replacement non performance rebuild stuff, I ordered pistons and a timing kit from here: http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page278.html It got to me very timely and the guy was awesome to order from. The piston brand was "Safety Pistons" and there wasn't anything wrong with them as far as I could tell and the machine shop didn't mention any issues when I had them pressed onto and balanced with my stock rods. I got my Clevite bearings from www.rockauto.com and I ordered my Clevite/Perfect Circle rings on ebay. The only real performance stuff I bought for my rebuild was ARP head studs and rod bolts which I bought from Summit. I went with LD28 Maxima Diesel main cap bolts instead of the ARP due to cost and got those from courtesy parts. The diesel bolts are stronger and take about 20 lb/ft more torque than the regular L28 main bolts. You should definitely have your head at least milled to a gasket surface and have it checked for any problems, that cost me about $80 at my local machine shop. My cylinders were in good shape and within spec so instead of reboring them I bought myself a Flexhone tool for about $50 and just honed them myself. I highly recommend downloading the Nissan Factory Service Manual for the 280ZX Turbo and also get the books How to rebuild your L-series engine, looks like it might be out of print but if you search around I'm sure you can find a place that has it in stock: http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253291889&sr=8-1 There is also the How to Modify your Nissan/Datsun engine book which is good: http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253291953&sr=8-3

I bought myself some Evercoat Rage Extreme. I previously used some filler that was made/sold by my local auto body supply place Matto's and it worked pretty well, sanded easily.

I love this thread. On another note, I was behind a car today with the license plate "VIN GASL".....hahaha

http://www.datsunspirit.com/index.html - This guy sells a custom set of longer spark plug wires that are meant to be routed in front of the engine. His website is under construction but if you email him he'll give you info. I think the set was like $80.

You could get a Traction Master sway bar. They still carry the 1 1/8" sway bars for the early Z's, I just bought one. It was $130. http://tractionmaster.com/ - Z stuff is not listed on their website, you have to call.

Motorsport say they have the Nismo MLS 0.6mm gasket in stock as a "new" product for $149.95. I don't know if this is the same Nismo gasket listed in the Nissan Motorsports catalog as part # 11044-E4623 as "NISMO head gasket for L-series 91mm bore, 0.6mm compressed thickness". http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/10-2454

Does your friend have any more deals like that on these tires? I need some for my RB-R's.

Do you happen to have any pictures of your fuse and relay setup that you could post?

Its pretty thin again, like last edition. Comparing it to the first issues of the magazine on my magazine rack is a big difference. Some of that must be less advertising as all print mediums are experiencing and ads are such a huge portion of pages in magazines, but 56 pages with only 4 issues a year is almost like a newsletter. Regardless of size, I still enjoy the magazine.

Those wheels are going to look awesome. Nice job with the paint on the coilovers, similar to how I painted mine except I used a silver instead of gunmetal.

I've used the U-POL weldable primer with good results, I think it was like $24 a can.

Looks like a 4x4 with that stance. The body work looks great but I think the car needs to be lower.

Im excited to see the results from this. It will be great to have a well engineered MLS gasket available again from the L engines that possibly won't cost as much as the Kameari gaskets.

Bump. Still looking for a door if someone has one closer to Washington, DC than VinhZXT or is willing to ship. Thanks.

It looks just like my daily driver! Hahahaha.

What about the OEM Nissan cap & rotor? What kind of contacts do those have? You can still get the Nissan parts from Courtesy for about $42 for both.

I have a new aftermarket fender, bought it from a guy on craigslist so I don't know who makes it. After doing just initial test fitting and comparing it to the stock fender, it really doesn't fit all that great. Oh well, I only paid $60 for it so I'll probably just repair the stock fender with a tabco repair panel and keep the aftermarket fender as a spare.

Have any pictures of the underside of it and what you did to get the hinge to work?