blue72

Guess I somehow missed the pic with the windshield last night. The doors might even have been engineered to line up with stock Fiero door glass, or that from another model. It makes sense that he'd have figured these things out before spending that much time and money in metal fabrication. I still want to see what he's got in mind for headlights and trim though. Found a site that in 2008 interviewed Woody, the guy making this thing: http://www.motorfoot.com/blog/post/2008/07/Woodighini---The-story-of-a-Born-again-Fiero.aspx

All I know is that I suddenly got an extra hour of daylight to play with and the driveway isn't wet right now, so tonight I'm pulling the welder out of the garage to play "surgery".

Very nice metalwork. My only question at this point: Where is he going to get glass from? One off glass is very, very, very expensive.

I've got an SK that's 4 1/2" but I've also seen other people list them as 4 1/4" and 3 1/2". Others I've read but haven't had my hands on: TWM = 4 1/2" (4" also seen mentioned) Mikuni = 2 3/4" RS Compe = 4 3/8" Hayashi = ? FET Kyokuto = ? Nissan Comp = ? Shokei = ? Kameari = ? Redline = ? Weber = ? Cannon = approx. 5 1/4" (5 1/2" and 6" also seen mentioned) Anyone want to help fill in the info I'm missing?

HS30, HS30S, HS30H, PS30, PS30SB, S30 240ZG, 240Z-L, 240Z, Z-L, Z, Z-432, Z-432-R Holy selection of designations Batman! The L20 (Not S20) equipped Fairlady cars were the Z-L and Z models The L24 equipped Fairlady models were the 240ZG, 240Z-L and 240Z That leaves the S20 equipped Z-432 as the last option. The base was the Z model (no factory radio for example), the Z-L the more luxury, and of course the ZG came with that special nose (among other things). The Z-L, 240Z, 240Z-L and Z-432 came standard with radio, clock w/ stopwatch, reclining seats, passing lamp, rear glass defroster and passenger foot rest. Other fancy things were optional like a vinyl top, racing stripes, etc... and available for all models. There you have the home market lineup that was available when the Fairlady Z was new.

It's pretty simple and straighforward for the most part. I put my components in the hands of a machine shop I had received multiple good recommendations for on my first engine rebuild trusting their expertise. They took care of me and only did the work that was necessary. The guys even got pretty excited about my old Datsun block and wanted to know why I wasn't going for the full 3.1L treatment. Aside from having new pistons fitted to the rods and boring / powerhoning the cylinders they just cleaned up the block (in their "jet clean" as they were concerned with possibly causing damage to the oil passage inserts), balanced the rotating assembly and polished the crank as it didn't need to be turned down. They did mill the top of the block a little just to clean up the mating surface, but you could still see the pitting around the water pass-throughs like you've got which is pretty common for this vintage of engine. Basically, if it's a shop you trust they'll hopefully treat you right and be able to provide the recommendations for just what kind of work you need. Even if you aren't entirely sure yourself. Oh, and the stock engine bore is 83mm, or 3.27 inches. .020 inches = 0.508 mm Also, if those pistons were that clean when they came out of the engine then it's a really impeccably spotless specimen of an internal combustion engine.

I recognize that contraption. In fact, I own the manual control prototype: You can probably buy it from me for less than making the robo version.

The numbers on the outside of the tranny don't mean anything. If you search around here there has been plenty of discussion surrounding how to identify which 5 speed transmission you have (early / late).

Someone else's ad and not exactly a Z, but pretty rare nonetheless. 1978 Datsun 810 2 door for sale in Phoenix. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/1615308599.html Perfect candidate for an L28ET or RB or whatever to have yourself quite a sleeper.

When we closed down my dad's shop I sold the CUDA we had. One of my favorite pieces of equipment. If I had had the space I would have held on to it. I'm back to just using a solvent tank and variety of brushes. Still better than what I used to use, cans of degreaser, a blunt screwdriver and rags. Someday I'll own another.

Thanks for all the pics. It's kinda difficult to come by nice high resolution pictures of these engines. Most Japanese sites seem to have really small pictures for some reason.

My friends and roommates went down there one afternoon. They stayed too late and were questioned at gunpoint. I still wish I hadn't had to work that day.

Beat me to it. I was going to say dieseling as well. It's been talked about on here plenty before.

They're still there, but they're called Watched Topics. It organizes them by subforum. For some reason they aren't in chronological order, even within the subforum grouping. Anybody yet know how to replicate the old system of having your watched topics sorted chronologically?

My new toy, a 1923 Underwood No. 5 that I picked up on Thursday at a local thrift store.

You want to spend your adult life campaigning for radical Socialist movements, become a Wobbly and advocate women's suffrage?

So, uh, is it a rare optional dual motor factory turbo setup then? Inline 6 motor - powered by Nissan - V6 Wow, talk about super rare, and with that elusive 2+2 vinyl top. Then there's the Ptima battery and that fancy new catlytk converter too. I can't wait to tekst him for sum piks. Aaaahhh! get it out of my brain!!!!!

If you are serious about preventing some jerk from keying your car again then this treatment is for you, just like this Audi owner: http://jalopnik.com/5453057/bedlinered-audi-a4-hotness-or-heresy

It depends on how much money I have. More money = more to spend on Z = more time on HybridZ researching what to spend it on. Other than that I usually check at least once a day.

The liners on some heads can loosen up on their own over time with enough stress / heat and cool cycles. It's possible it just fell out on its own. Might even still be in your muffler. Shouldn't have any problems with exhaust leaks, even with a square port header on a round port head. All you have to be sure of it that the header flange is straight, that there isn't any corrosion (or debris) on the head mating surface and that it gets evenly tightened down. Bottom end might still be in good shape though. If the PO didn't foul it up too bad that is.

The liner'd heads were designed to flow with the liners in place. Without them in place it completely disrupts the airflow. I also vote for sourcing another head.

If only somehow modern science could replicate this man's powers through reverse DNA engineering. Then we could all tap into the incredible latent power infused in each piece of rusty exhaust pipe.

I've still got these ones from a while back: I like the lighting on this one, but it's got a Fram filter and climbing equipment. If only I had time to model a RB engine and finish the ZG flares I've been working on for my model. Here's a mostly stock representation: And its darker cousin:

Took these on Friday while cruising down to sunny SoCal.