Nismo280zEd

Ernie's the man Enough said.

Alright, this is even cheaper and should be even easier to wire into the Z. 18 bucks for intermittent wipers http://www.apogeekits.com/windshield_wipers.htm let me know if those are all sold out or back order etc. and i'll find something else. -Ed

Now that's what i like to hear! Good luck on the projects! My triple Z has taken a mind of it's own...

1000grit?! ahh!!!! good lord.. you'll never get the scratches out! I used 1600 wet sanding my car and that even took off some runs i had. don't sand hard, let the paper do the work, sand until it feels smooth, and when dried will apper chalky almost. Then use a 3m polish. They have two grades, use the polish with cotton fiber, such as cotton balls, or make up removal cotton pads, etc. This is an old school trick I learned. It removes the scrathes much better. Then buff with your final polish. Also i'd let it breath for a week before polishing or anything -Ed

Mike... you bastard. -Ed

I've done many searches on this so nobody gripe at me. I just want verification if i'm on the right track here. OEM 280z oil pres and fuel level gauges and sending units. If my understanding is correct, the sending unit, requires a 12-14v input, then is either grounded by what it screws into, or a seperate ground wire, then another wire sends signal to the gauge in form of varying ohms. So is this correct? -Ed (still trying to get all the electrical working right)

I use headerwrap for a different reason, keep the engine comp cooler, and avoid another fire due to my previous open header. Heat shields are great things... they SHOULD be used. -Ed

Anybody have a manual 4banger they want to get rid of? Looking for a cheap daily driver. -Ed

Just had a thought, Is there a way to modify the dizzy and just cap the vacumn advance on it? Or would I be better off playn' with a 240 with points.

Yeah, I've read the same, however i dont' have the money to buy a brand new Mallory, does a 240 dist have vac advance? -Ed

I'll paint it for 80, but the shipping to the us would kill ya.

Ok, so for the sub and woofers, basically whatever looks good will work fine as long as I dampen the enclosers with some brown bread or other sound/vibrations absorption material. So for the midrange, I should spend more money on a quality speaker for the front since it is more important. Then the problem comes, where do you put one in the front, if i put it in the door it will be muffled by the legs of me or my passenger correct? I can easily fit some tweeters on the dash that's no problem. Any thoughts or previous solutions one of you guys have done? thanks for the sound advice -Ed

Wow guys... sorry to hear such bad luck, Sorry the pics don't work, I don't have a site to host them, you shoulda just pmed me for them. This install is really not that complicated. Sorry to hear the switch is outta stock, was just trying to help you intermitten guys out. I personally just like the fact i can drive through rain now. If there is somebody here who can host the pics IM me, i'll try to find the old ones and i'll edit the links so there are pics. -Ed

Please... Please Please.... use a heat shield and header wrap!!!! This is how my car caught fire with my EFI motor!!! Take my advice and make a heatshield. And bare min wrap the header. -Ed btw...Welcome to tiple hell -current member

lol Lovn' it -Ed

I have a 280z 2+2, but I never carry anything in the back seat but tools and junk. So I came up with this idea, build a custom fiberglass encloser on the sides of the car to enclose maybe some woofers and a sub. I was thinking about building this.. under the quarter windows infront of the strut towers, then angle the speakers in the opposite direction, IE the passenger sub point toward the driver, and so forth. I know the acoustics of the Z were talked about before on here, so I'm wondering if this would sound good, Or if I should stick with the idea I have to put the subs in back so they hit toward the glass. -Ed

ok... the link says for a 2+2 but I don't quite see how it mounts... looks like you weld it to the floor, but where to the other two mounts go? strut towers? -Ed

Glad I live near ya Mike hehe. I'm lookn' forward to seen' the Hulk in person when we get down there. -Ed

I used a similar switch from autozone designed to start your car. Was a little kit, just like the honda s2000 except 20 bucks, came with a relay, etc. Wired it in, then about a week later, driving up to Lubbock, the switch fell apart on me and i resorted to touching the two wires together to start my car for a couple months till I got back to houston. Then I ordered a Waterproff push buttom switch for 9 dollars from pegasus racing or JCW. It's now hidden and I'm not telln' ya where. -Ed Edit- You guys would get a kick outta this... talking about your switches, I used a switch panel from West Marine (yes the boat store). It's mounted on a counsel I made and am in the process of redoing. So I have switches with labels such as... Bilge pump, anchor, running lights, etc. lol

LMAO... I think we could all be car thiefs in our spare time. Olie, I didn't know you played bro. I'm tryn' to pick up guitar. Peace, -Ed

What they do in alot of Porsche 911 Targas, Is there is a bar they bolt in (bolts into where the seat belt mounts are) runs across to the other seat belt. That keeps your harness shoulder level so you don't get hurt in an accident. However I'm not sure I would trust my spine with just two bolts on that bar. Maybe the porsches have a stronger belt mount? I have a 2+2 as well and I'm starting to think the easiest safest thing is to just get a complete cage put in pretty much. Until then... stock belts and seats work for me. -Ed

I've been doing fiberglass work for many years. I would not recomend using the duraglass or fiberglass reinforced body filler aka body hair for anything structural. It's a very good filler, and waterproof, good replacement for Bondo, But something like you did with the spoiler I would highly recomend using some Woven roven (thick weave matt) for strength instead of that metal with all the rivets. As long as you leave the metal there you'll be ok, but unless you used all AL eventually you get rust bleed. If you want a smooth look, I'd have laid down a couple layers of woven roven on the back side to hold everything together, then another 3 layers to fill in the gap maybe 2 depending on how thick that gap is, then 3-4 layers of a fine weave matt. Grind the five weave enough to scuff everything then use the fiberglass body filler ontop of that and smooth. Looks nice Yasin. You have a pic of the whole front? looks like a bad@$$ spoiler. -Ed Also... I've used the Por-15 products, they are quite expensive, and you have to use all their products for the paint to stick correctly. Thier product "metal ready" is an excellent rust remover and bare metal primer. I would recomend using the clear instead of the black. Also... Rain-x and hydraulic fluid do not agree with this paint i've found out. However thier tie coat primer sands very nicely and sprays well, but does not agree with ppg primers or base coats. It will wrinkle or crack on you. A much cheaper solution that a fellow Z enthusiast introduced me to is called Zero-Rust. I just recently painted my entire car with product and I am very happy. Takes a little more prep time than por-15 (removing more rust) but it's much easier to deal with, and you dont' have to worry about ruining your spray gun with it.

Yeah well being 19 surely doesn't help my insurance premiums 20 in May. I've had two tickets, only one with my car. And both are cleared from my record, so it shoudln't affect my insurance. Ticket in the Z was for exhibition of acceleration and an unsafe lane change. I passed a bus in the rain, wasn't even speeding. Bastards. Then the other ticket i was in my g/f car, 4door honda accord, 7mph over speed limit. But like I said, did the defensive driving for the speeding and 16hr community service for the other ticket, along witha drip downtown to the city morgue to view some dead people, and a nice little video clip. But my point is I've called USAA several times to get quotes of different vehicles and i've noticed a patern, rear wheel drive are expensive and anything later then about 78 79 is about the same price to insure. The 74 911 I want is 174/month to insure yet a 94 240sx is 192/month. Maybe I should just tell them it's not may daily driver, all i need is liability anyway, not like i'd make a claim unless I hit somebody. -Ed

The choice here is obvious to me, I would much rather support a fellow Z enthusiast such as Ross than a conglomerate company such as MSA. With Ross you get the old school service that every business should have. The guy works a ridiculous amount of hours at his normal job and still finds the time to provide quality engineered parts for us. MSA does not to any testing on their products, Ross however does in the form or racing and street. Personally I look at MSA last when I can't get the part anywhere else. I've started using Victoria British over MSA, much easier and prepaid shipping back to them. Just my .02c though. -Ed (I always route for the little guy)

Hmm... so what would happen if you threw in a one way valve in the exhaust, this woudl eliminate reverse scavenging, but create tremendous initial backpressure I would think. -Ed