Sideways

And for what its worth- I should HOPEFULLY be installing my McKinney coilovers *next* tuesday and will have an update with first impressions of them by the weekend.

500 pound/inch springs? Pardon my silliness, but unless youve done some drastic reinforcement- Arent you basically turning your chassis into a spring with rates that stiff?

Im seeing a confusion here. Big power =/= "Better"

Apologies- The batteries have died in my sarcasm detector. Were you taking a stab at the "leaf-spring" suspension employed by the C5 corvette? So can we further extrapolate your logic used here (or at least the logic you have thus implied here) and deduce that open-wheel design is better than close wheeled design for racing? I mean, if it wasnt- Why would F1 do it, right?

200 bucks buys you bondo, some tools, a rustoleum paint job, and some money left to spare.

Welcome to HybridZ. A helpful tip to avoid much backlash- Check the dates of threads before posting. The most recent response in here over 4 years old. Sniff around- Theres some awesome stuff here.

Bumping this again.

Bump. Still looking.

Oi. Was half expecting a smart response like this. I shouldve known better. First I want to make it clear- I actually agree with you completely, 100%, that "Drifting" (what it is and what it isnt), is entirely opinion based. That said I am confident that my previous response detailing examples of what a "power slide" is and how/what/why its different from a "drift" (when asking someone who is into that type of "sport"), would be largely agreed upon by *most* (admittedly, not all) enthusiasts of drifting. Actually no- That is not my opinion, nor is such a belief expressed by my previous "definition" of what "a drift" is if you want to get "technical" on what I said. Simply driving your car and yanking the hand-brake (ill even assume one disengaged rest of the drive train from the engine via use of the clutch for the purpose of this argument so that the wheels would properly lock up on engagement of the hand-brake) will *not* result in the type of over-steer I was discussing in relation to drifting. If you disbelieve me, I urge you to try it (IN A SAFE ENVIRONMENT), and document the results. Use of the handbrake ALSO requires first and foremost? Momentum. Lets go back to that previous definition: "Drift causation: Momentum". If you dont have that car wanting to rotate before you yank that handbrake, it will not produce a desired effect. But I digress- Getting "Technical" on what exactly what I said, is largely pointless. Itd be like someone arguing that the paint on his house is fading because they heard a scientist say that according to a very famous 2nd law, "things tend towards disorder". The issue here is that someone is drawing conclusions on "finer" details from something that is meant as nothing more than an entry-level explanation. Anyone with a little scientific who-not knows that the second law states that things tends towards entropy- Entropy, a microstate measure of energy in a closed system that is so evenly distributed that is can no long "move" from point a-b and it is unable to accomplish "work", is not the same as "disorder"- But the use of "disorder" here was "accurate/good enough" to give an entry-level explanation of a complicated (No- im not saying drifting is as complicated as thermodynamics ) concept to an individual/party who might have 0 understanding of the "other" involved concepts. The same is happening here. My definition of what a drift was previously was not intended as a be-all-end-all definition of "drifting" with the overall point being "if youre not doing this youre not drifting". It was simply meant as an introductory explanation to any parties who might have 0 exposure to the "Drifting scene", and be completely unaware of why a power slide (as perceived by most fans of drifting that I am aware of), is different than the "Drifting" that they (the fans) enjoy watching (again, most* not all). If while racing on a track you go to accelerate out of a corner and get a little too heavy on the gas and cause the rear end to kick out, even if it was to a large degree- Such an example of "over steer" would not be viewed as "Drifting" by most who are heavily "into" drifting. It would be viewed as a "power slide"- Not a drift. if you flicked it into the corner on entry, using the hand brake to kick the rear out, slammed the throttle, dialed in counter-steer, went around the corner, kicked the clucht with the throttle down mid apex, hung the tail out on the exit, let the traction rebound just quick enough at a precise (enough) angle that it pendulum'ed you into the next corner with your rear end still fighting for traction, that would be viewed as a "Drift" by *most* of those fans. Again the difference? One was a slide caused mostly (not entirely, but primarily) by power. The other? Was a result of exaggerated momentum. But again dont scrutinize too hard. Its a opening to the "concept", not a guide. I'd like to thank you now btw if you actually read through all this. Again I apologize if you drew from my previous posts (or this one) that I am stating "Facts" in place of opinion(s). Just figured itd be safe for me to post a video of an s30 (well, I was highlighting this- As there was another vehicle involved) in the s30 section?

Title says it all- Looking for a front-set of 240z turn signals. If you got some please send me pictures of them with your asking price (La or Las vegas area preferred- Either works). Many thanks everybody!

Changing the gear ratio doesnt change actual whp any more than changing your rims/tires does. Torque is indeed a factor in power, but the other part is how quickly that force moves something. Hp is a simple formula- Hp is = to Torque x Rpm / 5252. To make this more clear lets play with some numbers. Lets go to our good friend, Timmy. Timmy has a car. Timmys car uses engine X! Why did timmy want engine X? Because it sounded awesome. Thats why. Engine X makes 100 foot pounds at ALL rpms, and spins up to 3000 rpms (How does it make 100 foot pounds at all rpms? Its magic. Why doesnt Timmy rev it to 3001 rpms? Because itll break, because its magic). Timmys car also lacks any kind of ratio-changing gearing. Its got a 1:1 from its engine all the way to its wheels. Yup- A straight drive shaft bolted between the engine and the wheels, every time the motor spins once, the drive-wheels spin once. Since we know this, lets calculate how much power Timmy makes to his wheels! Rev to redline Timmy! 100 foot pounds of torque, times 3000 rpms, divided by that magical 5252... Timmys making 57 hp (rounded down). Ok, maybe engine X isnt that Awesome. Dont buy Engine X. Seriously. Of little surprise, Timmy is a bit disappointed with his power. To help this problem, Timmy installs one of them shmangled differentials in his car. Its got a 2:1 ratio, this means that for every time the engine spins twice, the wheel is going to spin once. This has the benefit of doubling Timmys torque at his wheels. No 100 foot pounds for Timmy, not any more! All the players, they gon' be hatin. Timmy now gets 200 foot pounds at his wheels. Lets recalculate our power Timmy! Full throttle, 100 foot pounds, times 2 through that differential- Look at all that force Timmy! Bring it up to 3000 rpms.. but whats this? The motors spinning 3000 rpms, but the wheels only going to 1500 rpms. Oh well no matter, weve got 200 foot pounds! 200x1500/5252 and we get!.. Whats this? 57 hp again. Ah well Timmy, back to the drawing board. I hear those Turbo-Encabulators are pretty nifty. Jokes aside- I hope this was relatively simple enough to understand. You can change the gearing, but you also change the effective rpm in a proportional matter.

It is youtube

Agree with most of this, but you lost me on the lack of power-steering bit and the mcpherson strut bit. I cant see how/why those are a "flaw" for drifting in any way? The skill that driver demonstrated leads me to believe he probably skidded/spun out far less than one might anticipate. Im also not so sure about the additional angle, you see him hit full lock quite a few times and the angle doesnt look any different than what my own Z (Stock steering) is capable of. Maybe someone can post a picture of their car at full-lock for a proper comparison (mines 7000+ miles away atm sadly)

I see your 4 cylinder engine, and raise you 1 wankel rotary. Not sexy enough? Fine fine. Buy 2 rotors, get 1 free. Thats a 3 rotor 20b. Course if you want to go the other way, We had a very interesting Z come into the shop I worked at awhile ago:

Depends- Are you asking a serious question to someone who really likes/is into drifting, or are you just being silly Ill answer under the assumption that you are indeed asking honestly, or at the least intend to view this answer as a response for anyone *else* who may not actually know the difference. Im going to this as short and *hopefully* as simple as i can for anyone who is interested. A power-slide is when you simply use the power of a vehicle to abruptly disturb the traction of the rear tires and kick the rear end out. A drift on the other hand, (while it usually ALSO involves a good bit of power), is performed by subjecting the car to a rotational-momentum that causes the rear tires to break free. So hows all this actually work in practice? Start driving your (rear wheel driven) car in a big circle, let the car set, and then romp on the gas. Counter-steer, correct, hold the slide a bit, pat yourself on the back- That was a power slide. Now start driving your car, then force the vehicle to turn in at a rate so quickly that the rotational-momentum of the vehicle causes the rear tires to break away (a good flick out of a corner, then quickly into a corner is a pretty good method to accomplish this for learners), apply the power while counter-steering, and pat yourself on the back. That was a drift. So the real differences in the end? Power-Slide causation: Power. Drift causation: Momentum. Also a note on this video: I actually think i recognize this area- & IF its where I think it is, they were never actually on anything BUT those industrial building/business roads. The entire place is one HUGE business/industrial complex. Course it might be somewhere else entirely.

Dont condone what they were doing at all, but this is the *first* time ive really seen someone "drift" a Z in such a manner. Was interesting to watch at the very least.

Supporting Jmort on this one- I've seen the video myself, and while i cant recall the specs on either car I do know the Suby won. If i recall though the Z was also on race tires to boot. I wouldnt mind watching it again to properly refresh my memory

Search for some weight threads, these cars are around 50:50 out of the box depending on how much gas youve got in the tank, and theres quite a large number of people with a REAR biased weight with L-series engines. Dont let that long hood fool you, these cars are not front-heavy by any stretch of the imagination.

Its an old video that while im sure many of us have seen, I figured itd be worth seeing again and sharing it with those who havent had the chance to! I kind of consider this video to be rare now, it tends to get pulled off the net pretty quick once its put on- So enjoy it while you can. Enjoy everyone!

YOU CHEATED. Cant wait to use my spindle pin puller.

I was under the impression there was only one set available through the group buy- The 17x9 -13 / 17x9.5 -19s. Apologies if this was an incorrect assumption and there were multiple sets offered in the Rota RBR group buy I spoke of. The car is a 72 240z, the tires I plan to run would be in the neighborhood of 255s- But im not looking just for "specifics", I wanted to hear from multiple owners about varying set ups and how they worked for them. To answer you and HaaJeHaa, yes, I did of course look through the group by thread, but as the thread is nearing 40 pages and boarding on 1000 posts, it made it rather difficult to find the information I was looking for (Yes- I did a search, through both the forum and the specific thread, but was unable to find it either due to a lack of the information im looking for in specific, or an inability on my part to properly think of what terms to search for to narrow it down. I saw a few people ask questions like mine, but no answers were given). CamH- What spring rates are you running?

So for anyone who is using these rims from the group buy, what kind of suspension are you running and do you have any issues with rubbing? I finally got my hands on a set of these but as my cars grounded for the time being, and im half way around the world from it in australia, it makes testing things a smidge tricky. Ive got a set of suspension technique sways and some ZG flares which will be getting installed (i will be cutting as much of the factory fender under them as i can to make as much room as possible), but my concern for the time being is my tokico hp spring/shock set up. Im worried theyre too soft and will allow too much roll/compression resulting in tire rub, even if i cut as much as i can under the flares. Does anyone have a similar set up that can chime in on this? Will this set up be ok or will I need to run stiffer springs to avoid rubbing?

*Usually*, the highest value Zs are going to be ones in mint condition that are as original as possible. Typically speaking, cutting the flares will also cut the value of the car. Of course there is a market for modified Zs (ie, here). So this is a "rule of thumb", not a law. That said, a "clean" original Z will have an easier time fetching more money than a clean modified Z, again, usually (there are always exceptions)

What kind of fuel pump(s) are you using? Ive got a walbro 255 (not a chinese knock off that says walbro from ebay) and the thing is extremely quiet. Ive got mine mounted just in front of the gas tank and struggle to hear it prime the engine, let alone if theres -any- kind of other noise. The engine idling alone makes the fuel pump inaudible.

I for one am waiting for the CF center console(s).