Bernardd

this would scare me http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ud_gXPCMUDw

Tony aren't all 2+2's slow? I thought everyone knew that. I know mine is.

Awesome Brian. Are you going to produce some performance #'s for it? Realworld of course, like at the track:-P

Crap, I have to the MSA show again.

That is normal. The afm has small resistors that change the voltage to the ecu with the varying resistance to provide throttle enrichment. The only time the ecu holds the timing at base (20deg's) is when the tps sensor is shorted between the center terminal and the reference terminal. This forces the ecu to use the idle timing map. Have you checked the tps at the ecu to see if is opening?

Get the 87. It has a commonly available eprom for tuning should you ever want to or need to tune it.

Bo, consider that I'm running 2" piping about 4.5 ft long and a smallish GN IC and make about 400rwhp. You will have no problems at all. Looks great.

85 ecu/maf will work fine.

I was in the same boat a couple of years ago. Now I run 11's on a stock bottom end. You should install some arp studs "while you're at it" and use a meth injection kit. Maybe a bigger turbo "while you're at it" as it soooo easy to install at this point........lol.

The z31 manual states that at 3k it switches to simultaneous injection. I would guess that it's either the maf, ecu or a wiring/connection issue. Replacing the maf and ecu is straightforward, checking for continuity from sensor to ecu is a good idea as well. I recently had a connector issue with similar symptons. It was the maf connection that was bad in my case.

it might, what tony says is basically what happens....it's up to you to find the sweet spot.

have you tried to reduce the timing when it starts stumbling?

that's the first thing that popped into my head lol

I've got an 83 2+2 auto. It looks completely stock except for 225's in the rear.

it's 75 decimal

going from memory here.....try either 62 decimal or 75 decimal. i can find the exact value if you give me a day or so.

It made no difference in my setup to run the deltagate from the back of the turbo ( I used the stock wastegate port) with a pipe down to where the exhaust turns under the car ( ~ 24" piping) to right off the back of the turbo then dumping into the downpipe. (6" of pipe)

You are correct, I use nistune. I didn't actually touch Jeff's box. Until someone proves otherwise that is my story. I don't know what to say about Jeff's chickenwinging except that it takes my appetite away.

Well, I picked up and read the Jeff Hartmann book. It's an excellent book for beginners. It is, IMHO, way over priced for what it tells you. I was expecting piles of dyno sheets showing the various timing/afr combo's along with datalog screenshots showing you how to analyze the data the various ecu's. Some of the info I have seen in magazines except the magazines went into more detail than the book. And I'd like to know if anyone has looked at the fjo system.

My best so far is a 1.89 with falken street tires and 1.69 with old dot slicks. I've only launched the slicks 3 times so I'm I can better it. This is with a bone stock suspension. Question: how much will removing the front sway bar effect 60ft times?

what year ecu are you using and which binfile? is the key on when you're uploading to the emulator? what size is the binfile you're using?

Where is the fpr mounted? I know a few guys have had problems with the fpr if it's mounted too far away from the fuel rail. The cases I know of had the fpr mounted on the firewall or fender.

Damn I really hoped you'd get it. Did you contact the dude with the successful boost control on the volvo board?

Anything above and beyond basic afr and timing control needs to be looked at carefully before deciding that it is needed. For instance how many users will buy 6 wideband units for logging each exhaust port? (you have to have bungs installed as well) What about egt's? How about individual cylinder knock sensing? Just buying the sensors adds up, not too mention that you're going to spend hours upon hours at the dyno checking to see what each cylinder likes for timing and afr and egt's. You can also tune by cylinder pressure, but again those sensors are very expensive and don't last for a long time either. Perhaps someone with all the extra features on their standalone (and has used them) could relate their experience at this level of tuning. I have not graduated beyond very basic tuning myself and I am not in anyway saying that extra features are useless or a waste.