Bernardd

John,since you have a standalone, I would consider injecting 100% meth with a solenoid, pressure switch, a couple of large nozzles and having the ecu switch to the aux fuel/timing maps. With a progressive controller you will find that if you tune for rolling into the throttle, you might have a lean spot when you nail the throttle and just the opposite when you tune for quick wot, you will be rich during slower rate throttle transistions. That will hold true for meth pump controlled systems. You could also find yourself with a sputter during on off throttle transistions when shifting. Higher water content in the mixture will amplify the bog. Coolingmist, aquamist and FJO have fast acting solenoid injectors that can be mapped like the regular fuel injectors and remove the issue. IMO why map two systems when you can take care of it with your ecu. There is a lot of power to be found with 100% methanol if you're willing to tune for it. What afr is best to tune for? The last time I was on the dyno I tested various mixtures. The more methanol I used, the wider the window between the point of losing power to being overly rich to gain power by leaning the mixture became. At 10.7:1 I began losing a bit of power, at 11.5:1 I stopped gaining any power. It's something that you'll have to figure out for your motor, but I tune for 11.3 or so. I buy my methanol at a couple of local hardware stores. Hope that helps.

Hasn't everyone with a turbo L engine blown a few headgaskets while learning to tune, then lost the timing chain off the tensioner at least once while replacing the headgasket due to the aformentioned headgasket failure, then removed the front cover twice to repair an oil pan gasket leak properly, then found unmentionables in the oil pan, then blown several transmissions over the last several years? Last year I removed and installed the transmission 4 times due to various issues. Not that I'm whining about it or anything.......

have you pressure tested the intake piping/system?

here's a list: http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=4365.0 I have a factory garrett t3/t4 from a 92-94 non idi ford 7.3 turbodiesel. It's got a h-trim comp, stage 3 .82 hotside and flows 53lbs/min.

I know of several KA24's that are making over 600rwhp with the same turbo.

I'm interested.

The 88-89 ecu is easier to work with. No special eproms or sockets to find and install. Nistune itself won't care what year the ecu is. Best thing would be to contact the nistune poeple with your q's.

Well that sucks. PM James. He might be a few days to reply but he still checks in every now and then. I contacted him about buying a turbo recently and he told me he wasn't selling them anymore but perhaps he can still do something for you.

The stock mafs max out around 450hp give or take. They can be easily modified by removing the round piping portion of the sensor, then installing it into a larger pipe such as 3". Doing that with about 500whp we were seeing 4.2vdc from the sensors. You can also use wasted spark coilpacks from GM for ignition with some small mods to the wiring. 700cc injectors are no problem for a smooth idle. If you're going to tune the car on your own make very sure you know or are willing to learn your ecu of choice entirely or better yet go to a local shop and use the ecu they recommend in case they need to tune it for you if you run into problems.

For 400.00 you will have all you need to tune the stock ecu. The stock mafs can modified to meter nearly double the stock rating. I was able to match a local car that was dyno tuned with a power fc ecu with the stock ecu and modified stock mafs. I am in no way suggesting that either way is better or worse, that is for you to decide.

Nissan ecu's are about the easiest in the world to tune. You need software and the hardware from Matt at nistune.com and you'll have a full tunability with your stock ecu. JWT could also tune the ecu for you.

Have you considered the stock ecu tuned for your setup?

use the # on the side and find the flow info here: http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php4

This link has a chart in it showing the lamda values vs stoich values for a couple of different fuels. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/alcohol-nitrous-propane-tech/191893-how-does-methanol-affect-wideband-readings.html?highlight=methanol+effect+wideband

Great post mr monzter. I'm about to weld two GN cores to make a similar cooler as what you've got there. I'll do the same with the baffle if it's ok with you of course.

Everything is listed in my profile.

I did the run in my sig on a stock bottom end. Nothing great but it calculates out to around 400whp. I plan on dropping that et by 1 second or so this year with the same bottom end.

Phil, what is your dutycycle during a boosted run?

I've got the same turbo and have the same problem. It's really bad with the .63 turbine housing. I switched mine to a .82 and take my wastegate reference right out of the turbo. It reduced spool up a bit but I now get very little to no flutter. Another option for you is to try a bleeder type boost controller.

what was the max maf voltage?

Bo, this injector is methanol compatible according to the vendor. It might be easier for you to setup using a couple of these. Link: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D89120%2D1&N=700+4294925239+4294839074+4294870762+4294891681+4294748911+115&autoview=sku

A couple of inches before the throttle body in the intake piping.

Jeff needs more because he's also running 100% meth. I picked up 4mph and .5sec et when I switched from 50/50 at the same boost level. Have you checked out turbobuick.com? Best methanol forum that I've found on the net.

http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=889&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a This link has the info you need for either the 4n or the 3n71b. The e4n71b might work as well, I can't say for sure. The 4n71b has 4 gear planetary's which is rated at a much higher hp than the stock 3 gear set found in 3n71b's. As far as I know they are interchangeable and recommended when looking at big hp.

the airflow map in the ecu program has to match the maf, if you used a different maf your engine wouldn't run very well