Bernardd

You are correct sir. It's got extra clutch discs and a shift kit.

trans rebuild info: http://www.redz31.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=889 valve body info: http://z31.com/mods/4n71b/ i use hydraulic tractor fluid in my trans....it's grabbier enjoy

look here for stock cam specs http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Do a rebuild on the auto trans and do the level 10 valve body mods and you'll be good to go. I have a b&m shift kit with a keas spec rebuild and it's holding no problem. My driveline is still stock.

That setup will work fine. The belief that the maf can read more is not correct. The z31 maf will read more than the maxima maf and maxima ecu isn't as well known for programming. If you need some help with programming the ecu, let me know.

The tranny is not weak at all. It's working well with my setup. If you're going to rebuild the trans, I have the keas build sheet as well as the level 10 shift kit rebuild. Several of us are in the low 12's/11's using it. The guts are the same between the two, with overdrive on the 4n71b. I can't remember if the bell housing swap or not, but James Thagard might still have his old one lying around.

http://www.redz31.com/pages/fuel/romulator.html very little cost, full tunability, and of course a good basemap.

I should have said "limit" your mechanical advance to whatever you need it to be. These guys are doing what I meant to say. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114128

I would tell my six year old to call James Thagard aka 240zturbo.

Wouldn't the cheapest be to add nitrous?

Here's a link to some serious E85 users. I can't wait for this stuff to be available in Canada in my area. http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=47094.0

don't mean afr #? there's a chart on the techedge website with lamda values and the afr values for various fuels.

Very impressive. What size nozzle are you using? What is the pump pressure? I tried 100% meth this past weekend and what a difference in the power. Have you tried other afr's? I had mine slightly richer, I'm wondering where the sweet spot is for these engines.

search for grayzee.

I never mentioned anything about advancing the timing in my previous post, hence the comment about your knowledge, which I still stand by. You should know how it works before you go about modifying it. I'm sorry if I pissed you off, I didn't mean to. BTW I have a buddy with a supercharged L28 running the stock distributor. He's at 7psi and hasn't had to retard the timing at all, just make sure the afr's are good.

i read it and completely understand it. i've over estimated your knowledge. sorry about that.

As soon as you go into boost the vacuum advance isn't doing anything. You could adjust the mechanical advance to whatever you want to be your max advance. You'd have to determine what your max mechical advance is, then change the stops to bring it down. I'm not positive on what it is but I believe it's around 36deg's at 4000 rpm.

can you rev the engine over 3000rpm? if not you may have a broken maf or the maf signal isn't getting to the ecu.

Same here. I'll be trying 24psi then 26 psi on zx in the next couple of weeks at the track. Water injection is a VERY good friend to take along for the ride. That's with 91 octane and meth.

I have a custom elgin cam. I did a compression test and came out with 105 across all the cylinders. Last year with a stock cam I had 130's with different values across the cylinders. The engine pulls 14in of vac at idle where last year it pulled 18 or so. I bought the head/cam combo used and the previous owner says the vacuum on his engine was very similar. Thoughts??? Bernard

yes the ecu can be reprogrammed. at the moment it is possible to program any of the vg30 ecu's (84-89) for z31's. it is more of a hassle to program the 84-85 ecu's as you cannot use an emulator with them. you'll also need to physically modify the maf to expand the resolution on the 84-86 and early 87 ecu's when you've maxed out the maf. the later ecu's can be used with any maf with a couple of small mods. not sure what you mean by controlling everything properly. you'll have to use the idle controls the ecu uses in stock form if you want the ecu to control it. i have use the throttle stop screw for 4 years with no problems. you can keep the stock cold bypass valve for warmup or remove it if you wish. i'm not using the warmup control anymore and in my case it only takes a minute when the temp is near freezing before the car idles on its own. at 70degs f it idles on it's own after a few seconds. if you choose to program your own ecu, be prepared for learning how things works. it's a very simple ecu but very effective for controlling the afr's and timing your engine wants.

One of my best buddies has a jeep as well as my neighbor. I believe they're both around 01 or 02 models. The drivetrains are great, the rest of the truck is a pos according to these guys. They seem to have the same problems with the vehicles.

If you want a hand with burning an ecu I can do it for you or help you through the learning process. PM me if you need any help/info. Bernard

It's a 3.1L stroker. In thinking about this it's all dependant on the EMS you use. On jeff's car we were able to lean out the idle no problem with the 72 #'s with the z31 ecu but that might not work with other ecu's. Another thing is jeff also runs his car at 58psi (4bar?) I believe. I know it's higher than the stock fp.