Bernardd

Ron speaks the truth: If you're going with a shop for tuning I would go with what they are used to or recommend. All standalones can control the afr's and the timing, some will have more bells and whistles. None of that matters if you can't get it tuned properly. If you are a diy tuner, than go with MegaSquirt or the stock Nissan ecu.

It's a 4spd. You can get a transgo shift kit for it and do a manumatic for it as well. Contact JGS turbo for info, they have a car making around 300whp with an auto.

You're going drag racing right? You might want to contact Keas in australia if money is no concern. He might be able to help you out. If you use the z32 auto, you could rig up something like the maxima guys use. http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=99 This would also work for a KA auto trans. You could also make the 4l80e shift manually with switches but to do so I believe you remove the auto shifting completing. There's a pdf floating around a hotrod forum on how to do this.

I've got a z31 trans and the same clutch was recommended by a local shop. I'll get a hold of you when I'm ready to pickup an adapter.

Doug, I plan on doing this swap next winter. Which clutch have you selected? Are you fabbing up an adapter? Can you make two of them? lol

Why can't I find anyone successfully using ms to control boost? I have searched the msefi website many times with no info available....a lot of people SEEM to have tried, but run into issues, then disappear. Or I'm not looking in the right places. Water injection control will be done using the main tables anyway so extra code won't be needed for what I'm going to be doing.

are you going to post up your results? i need boost control and water injector control to work with ms before it would be worth my time to switch over.

Here's a guy that drives well and with 15lbs of boost runs 11.8. And a good example of why dyno #'s are for the most part b.s. if you're looking for what a car should run. http://www.redz31.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1113 http://jocke.z31turbo.com/

As your legal counsel I advise you to go with the hx40 turbo. And I'm coming down to see when it's running!! Better bring your A game mister.

thanks for the props. i believe the starion trans has the same guts. check the fsm against the keas info posted in the drivetrain section on the redz31 forum. i'm upgrading the i/c piping to 2.5" over the winter. the gn i/c is staying for now. i'll measure the pressure drop before changing it out. diff is a stock 3.54

The link I posted is Jason's website. Lotsa details there. He's also the owner of the site that typhoone found with the dyno results. http://www.redz31.com/forum/ The above is a link to the forum.

I talk to him all the time. I'll let him know you're looking for him.

Jason has done a better time since then. 11.6 I believe. I wouldn't put too much value in dyno #'s. My car dyno'd at 300rwhp but runs 11.75 and weighs about 3150 with me in it. If you go with a stick shift you'll dyno a lot higher but your et will be higher (usually). Auto's suck at the dyno but are quick at the track. You might wanna check out redz31.com. Good luck with your project.

Prox, I have Jeff's elgin cam on my car. It's no problem for daily driving. The car is very smooth and tractable. The vacuum at idle is about 16in or so. I get a full 22 psi by 3700rpm with my setup. That might be a bit different for someone with a stick shift as I have a loosened up converter.

That right there is the truth. I vote it be put into the manlaw.

Awesome numbers, are you planning on a trip to the track at some point?

does the maf output at the maf match the output at the ecu?

you'll need a 60-1 turbo with a stage 3 wheel at minimum, good clutch/tranny/rearend or a well built auto trans, good IC and either run race gas or pickup/make a methanol injection kit and most importantly you'll need a tunable ecu of your choice. i'm sure others will add to the list.

I'm in the electrical utility business as well. I'm a field worker turned geek who is going back to (thank god) field worker status in the next few weeks. I'm sick of being inside, stuck to a desk.

Rich, would you agree on that on that run the bike out performed you?

What kind/size/brand of injector are you using? Are you using a shurflo pump? (It looks like one) If it's a shurflo did you bypass the pressure switch up top for more psi? Tony: I think the compressor wheel erosion problem is the biggest concern for pre turbo injection. I've seen pics of wheels where water has been injected for several years and the wheel looks fine, and some where the wheel looks hammered after several months. Pre turbo is very cheap and easily done by a diy'er. I've vented to atmosphere for two summers with no problems.

Is that a nozzle or an injector? Any type of controller?

That's the same tire I use on my 280zx at the track with stock rims. Fit's no problems on a zx.

I've seen a headlamp washer pump used for alk/water injection.

I'd be interested a hx35 or hx40.