Xnke

That is actually the intake, he just mistook it for a valve cover. the whole setup as a group could bring good money to the right buyer.

what's your idle timing set at? Try advancing the dizzy a little at a time to see if you can get it to fire over. My EDIS converted engine wouldn't fire off at 8* initial timing, at 12 it would backfire out the intake, at 15* it will start and run, poorly, and at 18* it is sitting pretty. I suspected that I was triggering a tooth off, at first, but after double and triple checking, i think my engine just likes 18* initial timing.

the S30 engine mounts are solid bricks, in most cases, so this approach would not work. In fact, most of the mounts for the transmission are solid bricks too, at least the ones I've seen and used.

There are stickies in the top of the forum here. Read them. EVERY ONE OF YOUR QUESTIONS IS ANSWERED THERE. That's what everyone has told you, and that's all the information you're going to get with this kind of attitude. I'm 22. I have rebuilt my Z from the ground up and the first thing I did when i came to this site was spend about a week reading every thread that was in the Nissan L6 forum. Did I need to? No, there was a lot of chaff in there. Did it tell me everything I wanted to know about the Nissan L28? Yeah, pretty much. I started on this site when I was 19. I managed to read the rules and follow them, and usually don't get slammed too hard about dumb questions, I just get told to search like everyone else here. Just do it. Age is no excuse. Newness level is no excuse. You were supposed to read the forum rules when you joined up. You had to wait a minimum of 30 seconds in order to even get the button to agree to join. Rule #2: Being as this forum is an extreme performance forum, it is expected that members already have a basic understanding of their cars and have some mechanical ability, own some form of a service manual such as a Haynes manual and exercise the search function exhaustively before asking basic questions. This used to be the Forum Rule #2. That rule now reads: 2. Please use the search function before you do anything else. The search button can be found at the top of the page. Use several keywords if you don't find what you need right off the bat. Remember: Just about every possible topic and problem has been posted and answered, in most cases several times. The Members on this board are very helpful and a great crowd of Z enthusiasts, but answering the same questions over and over again gets old. Yeah, the new search feature isn't as good as the old one. But it still works.

What you can do instead of the ATL black box is take your tank and sump it. I cut the bottom 2" off an old dented up L24 oil pan and carefully ground and fitted it to the bottom of the tank, with the drain oriented to the back of the car. I had previously had the tank boiled out so I didn't fear welding the sump on. The original drain plug is removed, and two more 1" holes were cut in the bottom of the stock tank, and the original feed line was re-bent as to pass through into the new sump, and a new 3/8" pickup line was bent and finangled down into the new sump, about 1/2" off the bottom of the tank. It was then soldered into the original pass-through point in the tank, where the old 3/16" return line was. Make sure that the feed and return are at the back of the tank, and the new fuel sump has three holes near the middle of it, so side to side won't slosh the gas out of the sump, nor will a sudden stop or acceleration. Since you don't have exposed lines hanging from the bottom of the tank, it doesn't appear to be modified to those who don't know the cars well, which can be a plus when dealing with certain laws.

Yes, the above combination would work. However, that is not the ONLY combination that would work. Are these flat top or dished pistons? For Max Piston speed under 1100m/min, the cast piston redlines are acceptable. L24 crank and L14 rods would also fit, with .9mm deck clearance, for 2.5L and 1.8 R/S ratio, cast piston redline of around 7300RPM L20A crank and L13 rods would also fit, with a -.4mm deck clearance, for 2.4L and a >2 Rod/stroke ratio and a cast piston redline of about 7800RPM

Check your damper oil.

WOOT! O2 sensor parts will arrive on the 24th...then it's time to actually get down to business.

No, they are not internally the same. You won't find a rebuild kit easily for a type A, however there are some porshe type syncros that are reported to be suspiciously similar. There are a few threads in here about these boxes, and rebuilding them, but it would be easier and cheaper to swap in a type B box

You would have to find a way to take up the timing chain slack...the amount of slack is enough that it would eat away the tensioner in very short order.

That's because the speedo is not supposed to be calibrated to the car, but to the gauge face. You use the proper speedo cog in the transmission matched to the rear end ratio, in order to make the speedometer correct. solder the jumper back, put it in the gauge cup, and it's done. Just use the right speedo cog and you're finished.

Probably the only thing wrong with your brakes is old nasty contaminated brake fluid. do a complete fluid change, re-bleed everything, including the master, and see if that helps. What pads are you using?

Ok, after using a good bit of time with a radius end mill and the lathe, the whistle has been cut down a LOT. I'm now idling solely on the idle air bypass, and the throttle plates are closed at idle. Now I just gotta get the intake piping made up.

Rule 2.

The type A and type B transmissions are equal in length, the driveshaft length is different because of the position of the differential. You can swap out for a type B transmission with no issues.

Mastersmechanic, you already know an overlay part won't fit...why half-ass the job? Go ahead and make the mold, then pull the part. You will forever regret not making the mold and doing it correctly once it's done, if you just fibreglass up an overlay.

Ok guys...Get a LD28 forklift block...they can be found factory dry linered. I have personally seen ONE known forklift block in a local machine shop with dry liners being pulled and replaced...the liners were 3mm thick for a 84.5mm bore. pull the liners and you've got an 87.5mm bore, surely another half mm will be acceptable, and then you have 88mm pistons with 35mm pin heights and 9cc round dishes available inexpensively. Are all LD blocks sleeved? No, this is the only one I've ever seen that was. the machinist doing the work said he'd seen a few and he has done a LOT of LD28 forklift engines and they didn't all get linered. He was from South Africa and worked in a big plant there before moving to the US, where he said they were kinda rare. I tried to buy that block from the shop that owned it, even helped them get another block to replace it with (they bought the block just to have a spare) but they would not part with it.

Either run it as it sits, Or open it, change gaskets, and swap in some ARP rod bolts. I'd only do the latter if I was going for RPM's or 300+HP, though, unless it had bad compression and leaky rings. Then, it's time for a rebuild, with the highest quality components I could get. Contrary to popular belief, there ARE some nissan rings and bearings available still. I spent 300$ on nissan rings and bearings with my local dealer last week, and have enough to last me for four complete rebuilds.

well hell, I can do all that just closing the throttle plates and opening up the rear idle air bleed. About halfway open, the engine idles on all six cylinders just fine, it just whistles like a sonofabitch from sucking air in. That will work until I mod in an idle air controller, so i can raise my idle a little with the A/C on if I have to.

Megajolt Light Junior here...till I swapped my carbs for FI+MS1e. It's a simple conversion, the hardest part is fabbing the 36-1 wheel and trigger pickup. If you've got access to a lathe, or one of Derek's EDIS mounting kits, it's cake. Just stomp the coil pack down on the passenger strut tower, bolt the EDIS module in somewhere, and follow the wiring diagram. Mine looks very similar to BRAAP's install on the BRAAPZ, or I'd post up some photos. A set of custom plug wires will finish the job with a neat look, or maybe you can find an OEM set that will work and look good. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you're still running a current-sense tachometer, and most folks just swap them for a voltage triggered tach. Absolutely NO NEED to do this. To retain the stock current-sensing tachometer, take the black/white stripe wire from the stock coil wiring, and trace it back to wherever you are mounting your coilpack. USE THIS WIRE to supply the +12v line to the coil pack, and WAA-LA! Stock current-sense tach works perfectly fine. However, you will not be able to use the multispark capabilities if you want your tach to read correctly at engine speeds under 1100RPM. Under 1100RPM, with Multispark enabled, your tach will read three times high.

Ok, So Tony, you're suggesting rather than use the plate up on the balance tube to set idle, I should instead remove that, meaning the throttle plates will close completely, then use the linkage to crack the front throttle plate, and then use the rear idle adjustment screw to balance the throttles. Do I understand correctly? Why not just drill out the JB-welded bypass screw and replace it with a new one, to regain the front idle air adjustment? I'm currently looking into a unified Idle Air Bypass control system, and have some ideas on paper. The threaded hole in the back of the balance tube is currently fitted up as a vacuum port for the MAP sensor. The front end of the balance tube has a core plug in place. I am considering pulling the core plug, and mounting an idle air control system there.

The idle is set by the same method the SU carb's used...the little plate up on the balance tube. I accidentally JB welded one of the bleed air screws shut, so only one of them works. Throttle-to-throttle balance is set by the screw on the lefthand side of the linkage, the rear throttle is not adjustable, just the front one. I CAN still shut the throttle plates all the way, and open up the rear TB's bleed air screw a lot to get it to idle. It whistles like a sonovabitch though. Idle vacuum doesn't improve much. It does make it much easier to set the idle, however. You can't see it much in the video, but the throttle linkage is non-linear, the first 1/2 of the throttle pedal opens the throttle plates about 2/5ths of the way...it's just a shade more than a 1/4 of the throttle plate travel. So far I have had zero problems with the off-idle MAP signal...color me lucky. In the end, there will be piping installed to fit from each TB to the front of the car, passing through the core support to an air filter...I won't run this on the street without a good filter. Besides, If/When I go turbo, half the intercooler piping will be in place... A little more cleanup, a lot more bodywork, and this car gets painted and registered, and I'll start driving and tuning. Dyno in the fall, if I think I've got it anywhere close. Z-ya shared his MSQ, although the spark table looks really strange. The VE table he's using is also working really well for me, so far, I just loaded it up and the idle is much more polite on the nose and eyes. Still waiting on innovate to fix my LC-1 and get it back to me.

At 780-860RPM idle (rough, rough tune...hoping it will smooth out a little) Idle vacuum is 62kPa, with a Delta .454" lift, 234*@0.050" duration regrind. Cam is set up in the #1 cam sprocket hole till I get it tuned in and drive it a bit, save the tune, advance cam to position #2, retune, then I'll make a decision based on how I drive to figure out if the cam timing change is for me or not. I'm thinking if I advance the cam to the #2 position, my idle vacuum will move down to 50kPa or so, and torque band will move lower as well. When I was running the carbs and E88 manifolds, the engine vacuum logs told me the cam started getting efficient about 1950RPM, and it's moved UP to about 2100RPM with the new manifolds. Basically for flat pavement, vacuum goes from 62kPa at 800RPM rolling to 48kPa at 1200RPM to 32kPa at 2100RPM, then 38kPa at 2800RPM.

The fuel pressure regulator vacuum line can easily be re-routed to pull from the same place as the MAP sensor, and I could drive an aluminium plug in the port. The front TB has mounting bosses on it for cruise control, and I have the cruise control mechanism. Just have to build or buy a controller and swap over to an electronic speedo and VSS unit to do it. I retained the bosses for future use, you could say. Yes, no RPM's because it was a cold motor and the table isn't really tuned up too good above idle yet, can't drive it legally till i get all the lights and glass in.

Pretty rough tune. Rich at idle, adequate under load, really really rough otherwise. Wideband will be installed whenever it gets back, all I have right now is a narrowband...totally awesome, right?