Xnke

Kinda sad that those planes don't even exist anymore...Most of them, anyway. There are only two SR-71 left assembled, then there are the YL-71 and I think one other designation that may or may not still exist. I'm pretty sure all but two of the YL-71 are gone too. Really nice shot though.

There is some pretty decent info about stuff like that in the book too. Infact, there is a section in the beginning that goes through the whole "do I really need to do this" if I recall correctly. And, if you know the factory tolerances, (those are in the book) and you know about how long the motor has to run before you can rebuild one (or how much time you can squeeze out before this one grenades) You can extrapolate what tolerances YOU want. Tony, I just called the local dealership to ask about bearings and rings, having heard you say they are higher quality parts than the aftermarket. You're right, stock, first and second oversizes for the 86mm piston rings are gone, and all L6 bearings are out of stock...But the 85 and 87mm pistons and rings, and the oversizes, for the 4 cylinders are still listed as well as L4 bearing kits, at the local dealership. Maybe I can get some Real Nissan parts for the next engine. Is it worth stocking these in my garage?

That gasket that is not right is the Headgasket...you might get away with it with some sealant. Expect to leak oil all over the front of the motor eventually. It does sound like a vacuum leak or a timing issue.

There is a book that is commonly referenced on this site that does all that. It's called How To Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine, by Tom Monroe. He goes through all the tolerances, the procedures for measuring, has nissan part numbers listed, and has some fairly decent photos in there as well. There's really no need to try to put together a thread on rebuilding the L28 when Tom did it better already.

Ever wonder why black anodized heatsinks are the norm? Black objects pick up heat the fastest, by better absorbing IR radiation. They ALSO dissipate heat faster. Ever wear a black shirt on a sunny day? Got hot. Then you went inside, and were cooled of substantially faster than most other colors of shirt. White might reflect IR better, but it doesn't radiate IR as much. Stays cooler via reflection, but retains heat longer.

ANNNNNND! It Runs! Got the fuel leaks sorted out and fixed, had a pinched injector o-ring and a bad fuel rail angle. Time to send the LC-1 off and get it repaired, then reinstalled in the car and start tuning it. Had an issue with excessive spark advance for a few minutes, but got that sorted. I think I have an air bubble in the cylinder head as well, so I'm going to park it on a steep hill overnight and bleed the radiator in the morning. The induction noise...it's...Worth it. I'd do it all again with a pocketknive and duct tape just to get the induction noise... Video as soon as the LC-1 is off and back.

A can of 110? You mean octane booster? Fat chance. Not going to do a damn thing for you, might bring you up .2 points of octane. Now, if you mean a tank of 110 octane gas, yeah, that'll probably let you run full timing advance. But you'll not be buying that at the local gas-and-go, either.

Lack of timing advance. You're not running full timing advance, to avoid pinging. You probably CAN'T run full timing advance and not ping without running something better than pump gas. Some claim to be able to do it, others can't. Check your dizzy and see if you can find a shop that will tune your advance curve, on a steady state engine dyno. Or go to a fully electronically controlled ignition system and tune it with a computer.

No, it's called barrier hose, and is not the same.

Yes, the new oil is the reason. Read the oil viscosity primer here on this site, and it'll explain why and how it works. basically, the 5w40 acts like five weight oil cold, so the pump is actually using it to lubricate the engine. At temp, it acts like a 40w oil at the same temperature, so the viscosity remains more constant. End result is better lubrication of the engine. That doesn't explain the idle pressure, but check your instrumentation...TonyD has a good point there.

I didn't have a stock fuel rail to use, and I am using o-ring injectors because they were much easier to get at in the junkyard. My total cost on this intake is sitting at 180$, including the fuel rail, which I machined myself. I've managed to bungle up my injector seals in the several months that I've had them, so no running videos yet. I've gotta adjust the fuel rail bracketry a bit and change the seals, and we'll see if i can get it started and running.

Getting it bolted up: All bolted in and wired up: Lots of room for future expansion, even with a 7.5" runner length. If I had been able to find some aluminum tubing that would have worked out, I could easily have stretched the runners another 2" and had plenty of room.

There are also some ford keepers that will work, that change the location of the keeper and retainer by moving where the keeper sets in the retainer. They are mentioned in How To Modify, but I don't see a reason to use them, really.

Yep, Rat here. I did call Kameari, and did get the aforementioned treatment. I'm not worried about it, because while if they had made a suggestion as to what cam would be appropriate, and quoted me a price, I very likely would have seriously considered it. I do have enough cash set aside that if they had said 800 or 1200 or whatever price, then I COULD have whipped out the card and read out the numbers. I really don't want to spend that money though, as it's my only backup for if TSHTF. Do I need such a cam? No. I don't. Is my car going to be a full time road racer? No, it's not. BUT, as Tony has said, knowing when to NOT make the sale is just as important as when to make a sale. If I am not going to be a profitable customer, then don't sell to me, no matter how much money I offer. I'm a no-name, no-background customer, asking for a pretty steep cam, but also asking for a suggestion of a smaller one. I'm giving the appearance of a waffler. The distributor, I'm sure, picked that up. I saw him turning me down as a potential customer. He saw me as a garage engine rebuilder who doesn't really know what he wants and probably won't be satisfied with what he gets. And yeah, Alan is right on the kameari kit...you get a lot of stuff for 1100$. PLUS you get the support of KEW when things aren't quite perfect. KEW tech support alone is worth 1100$ to me...

Ok, to remove those panels, you will be drilling out a few hundred spot welds. Get good at it before you hit the junkyard, and take lots of extra batteries for the drill. Start low, strip all paint to the metal where the rocker meets the dogleg, bottom flange has some spot welds, then up along the wheel well, then the back floor. Come up the inside of the hatch, there is two or four at the butt end, then a row that goes up the side of the hatch area, then you'll need to melt the lead out of the seam from the quarterpanel to roof, and remove the spot welds along the quarter window and the back edge of the door. It's a LOT of work to remove one without major damage.

Datsunparts LLC Looks a LOT like a major ebay scammer that used to go by the name reddat. He was selling mostly used, cleaned up and painted engines as new/rebuilt, and stroker motors that were nothing more than junkyard L28's. Not saying they are one and the same, I can't determine that, but the site layout looks a LOT like the old reddat stuff.

The manifold is tapered a little, and is matched to the ports. Here's hoping that when I get the car back driving again and get the Megasquirt tuned up that it'll be worth the effort!

Yes, this is the result of merging two manifolds, much like Z-ya's project, however to line up the two particular manifolds I had available (N36 and W24) I ended up with an 7.5" runner length. It will be going on the car in a few hours.

No, the VG30E and VG30DE flywheels do not match the L-series cranks, as far as i've found. But the KA24 and RB20DET flywheels will mount up, as well as a few others that should mount up, but i have not tried them yet.

This project has come to fruition, I have the complete manifold and fuel rail, and linkage, all bolted up sitting on the couch. Just waiting on a fuel pressure regulator that I traded for with another member here to show up, and I'll bolt it on. I was able to take the stock SU linkage I had laying around, heat it up so the brazed joints all sagged apart, turned a new center shaft in the lathe, brazed it all back up with new angles and bobbles, and got it all to fit in the stock positions. I used two throttle bodies from Mitsubishi 4G93 1.8L engines, with 50mm throttle plates, Mitsubishi 4G64 275cc/min fuel injectors, (NipponDenso INP-065), and N36 carb manifolds. The most difficult problem I encountered was actually the fuel rail hold-downs. Photos: Setting up for machining the fuel rail: Cutting up parts and measuring, fitting, scheming: 35mm exhaust valve for my porting guide, set against the ports to check for clearance: All parts layed out on the work table: Balance tube: Welded up and test fit on the kitchen table, before porting: After Porting: All assembled and ready to mount up on the car: More photos as it get fitted to the car, and the water line finagled around. When that regulator shows up, video!

Daeron, I *did* ask for a suggested cam profile, and got a similar response. Really, it think it is more that distributor than anything, and like Alan has said, he's never had any problems calling Mori-san at KEW in japan. I'd do so, but I don't speak japanese, and right now do not need to buy. It'd be bench racing at best.

BJhines, what zane9000 is running IS Throttle Body Injection. Yes, mixture distribution inside the manifold is not ideal. But having the injectors OUTSIDE the throttle plates is how TBI is usually done, however the injectors are normally mounted at an oblique angle to the thottle plates. In this case, I really don't think he's loosing anything. To fix your puddling problem, you can either move the injector behind the throttle plate (doesn't solve the puddling issue, just moves it) OR move your injectors outward, letting them spray down the bores of the throttle at like a 5 or 10 degree angle, from about 2 or 2.5" away from the throttle plates. Either method will correct a lot of the puddling problems, but it won't solve them completely. TBI has been around a LONG time, and most every implementation has the injectors firing straight at the throttle plates from outside the manifolds. GM, Ford CFI, some Hilborne, I've seen a number of F1 and similar cars rin it that way with ITB's too.

Good to hear the car is great. Sounds like a lot of fun, but betcha won't make the decision to run without an exhaust anymore, eh? I did the same thing on my Z when i started it up the first time, had just the header and collector on, melted the undercoat off the transmission tunnel. Everything was looking good till i noticed the undercoat and paint burning off...

Ok, I just called up the Kamerari rep here in the US. I got exactly the same treatment, and I ASKED for a suggested cam profile, giving my cylinder head flow rates, valve sizes, bore and stroke. I told them I'd like to consider a 73 to 75 degree cam, although I was not familiar with the nomenclature and would be open to suggestions or an explanation of that method of sizing camshafts. I was told "You don't have the engine to use a cam that big." Not "Well, you would be better served with XXX cam, those cams are too hot for that motor." or "We don't have a profile that will fit your needs." I was given no reasons why. I was given no suggestion as to what would be appropriate for my usage and other modifications. I have called Isky before, and he was much more helpful. I know where my money will go in the future.

Get it straightened first. If you have him cut it as is, you will have uneven compression between cylinders, as much as a 1cc difference from one to the next. That's not good.