Xnke

You call and talk to the cam grinder, and tell them what you want. They will make a recommendation based on driving type, engine type, usage, and other stuff. Then you read the stickies here on how to setup and run in your new cam, with your new or reground rocker arms, and your measured-for lash pads.

Have you ordered a haynes manual to match your vehicle? The ZX alterator is internally regulated, and will only fit on the passenger side of the block, with the stock mounts, One direction. The power steering pump mounts high, on the side of the cylinder head, above the alternator.

that shifter is for a FS5W71C transmission, for a 300ZX NON turbo, or 84-88 200SX, or a few other cars.

Hmmmm, this would imply that we could work backwards, and get a better effeciency number for a stock L28ET. Am I correct in that now i could take your graph, rework the knee for the 10PSI line to be at 3200RPM, assuming that you have no compressor surge, and solve for the new set of lines?

Yeah, that's an SBC cam, but I'm already looking at my spare cam with a terribly evil eye. I wonder how well those cast lobes will braze to a 4140 tube?

Your alternator wiring is gonna nuke your entire system, it's totally messed up. Internally regulated alternator: BATT to the battery, use an 8 gauge wire, or BIGGER. It's gotta be able to hold a sustained 50-80A, for a ZX alt, or 100A for a GM 12SI alternator. S Connect to the main incoming power to the fuse block. This wire tells the alternator how much voltage it's actually putting out; so you want it located at the same position that the voltmeter is measuring voltage, too. Good place to put it is the incoming power to the fuse block. L This is the lamp connection. YOU MUST USE A CHARGE LIGHT OR A RESISTOR. If you don't do this you will nuke your alternator, and probably the whole wiring harness between the alternator and fuseblock. FOR THE GM 12SI alternator swap (I've done this one, so I feel comfortable saying) the L wire goes to one side of the charge lamp, and the other side goes to switched power. IF THIS WIRE IS NOT CONNECTED then you may not get any charging current, it could work just fine, or it could cause a black hole to form in your engine bay. I don't know. I just hooked it up according to GM's instructions; you need to actually find out how the L wire hooks up on the alternator that you choose to use.

Box end wrench.

Isky was using CWC cores, unless you sent in your old japan core to be reground. Has been using CWC for at least 5 years, now, unless something has recently changed. That's the only reason I warned about the soft core.

The steering rack bushings are different from 69-73 and 74-78. 74-78 bushings are THICK and don't fit well on the early racks.

Yeah, but you're getting a soft CWC core, and then he's got a fairly decent chance of ending up right back where he started. Still have to replace the rocker arms anyway, or at least get them resurfaced.

Junkyard, or risk getting a soft core. A regrind on a Japan core makes good sense, as does finding a replacement Japan cam. That Nissan C grind cam is still tiny, and you're going to have to set up the lash pads anyway, so why not get something under .450" lift (to work with stock springs and retainers), about 108-110 LSA, and 270-280 degrees advertised duration? You can get that japan core reground, and regrind the rockers, 120$ or so shipped for the cam and 4$ per each rocker by Delta Camshaft in Tacoma, as opposed to 14$ each rocker new, Or one of the MSA cam kits, or talk to Isky or CompCams, Or, Or. You should change the rocker arms or have the reground, wether or not you go with a new cam or a regrind.

I agree, there isn't a reason to do it otherwise, but when the rules say "4 cylinders only" It doesn't mean the cylinders need to be round. kinda like the Napier Deltic...three cranks, 9 cylinders, 18 pistons. Rules said "MUST FIT IN THIS BOX" so Napier made them fit, any way he had to.

Why not just run a V-8? Gotta be specifically to get around some 4-piston rule or something....

Looks like you can check the box for a t3-t4 turbine, with a t3 flange, so i would say it's a strong possibility.

Not at all! Take them to get rechromed, they will strip them, straighten and remove any dings and dents, and rechrome them, which you would have to do anyway after straightening them. As soon as you hit that chrome bumper to take those creases out, the chrome will start flaking. after that, it's all downhill unless you get them rechromed. Besides, it gives you a good chance to weld up the holes ans smooth those puppies out!

For someone who has never done paintless metalwork, it's going to be a real chore to get that straight. If I wanted to make it look good, and those were the only tools I had, I'd load them up and take it to a chrome shop to be redone. If you have done some paintless or bare metal shaping before with just hammers and dollies, then it would be roughly a 8 on the 0-10 scale of difficulty; those creases are pretty sharp.

Sure, that's all true. But for a given pressure plate strength, a bigger friction surface will allow more torque before slipping. So for people like me where an easy clutch (feels like stock) is appreciated, the larger friction surface allows a lesser pressure plate to do the same job. And it might be handy for some of the folks running 500-600HP; as opposed to going to a double disk clutch; or for people like 1FastZ who destroyed his thrust bearings because the pressure plate had to be so hard to hold the power; now an extra 10mm of clutch disk means he can run a slightly weaker pressure plate.

Check your brake booster; they can be a vacuum leak too, internally. Won't show up with the spray unless you get it inside the booster; hard to do Pull off the brake booster line and cap it off, see if it fixes it.

Check the oil levels in the carbs, and check for vacuum leaks. That is almost pinpoint dead on what my engine ran like with a vacuum leak on the front carb, and no oil in either carb. Of course, my lack of oil is probably just superfluous, and it's just a vacuum leak.

I would call up rebello, Dave is a great guy and helped me choose a set of springs; I am using the A package from him. It's only the outer springs, you use stock inners. I'm sure he can set you up with a set of stock inner springs, too, and the best part: Total cost of the new springs was 120$ shipped, AND you use stock nissan retainers, spring seats, and valve locks. The rebello A springs don't coil bind till like .580 lift, too, If i remember correctly, but they are spec'ed out for .460"-.510" lift cams.

I love it when someone says that a transmission from this won't fit the engine from that. It's all in how much work you want to do. And to those who think the 240SX trans is the only way...it's not. The FS5W71C trans came in a LOT of cars, not just the 240SX. If you have a stock S30, And don't have an L28E or ET five-speed available, then the EASIEST, LEAST WORK option is to get the FS5W71C transmission from an 87+ 200SX. Swap the front case off your four-speed by changing the countershaft bearing, and enlarging the shift hole in the front case. Clearance for the gears. Bolt trans back together. Stock driveshaft fits, and for some versions of the S30 chassis, all you do is flip the transmission mount backwards and re-drill the two mounting holes as far forward on the mount as possible. Done. The same front case swap can be done on a C box from a Z31 non-turbo, 200SX, Xterra 2WD, 720/D21/Frontier pickup, 240SX, and a few others. Before you go on and grab the first C box you find, take a look at your rear end ratio, and then find the transmission that has the overdrive gear you want. For me, with a stock 3.36 rear end gear, I used the '87 200SX primarily because it fit with the stock driveshaft, but also because the .813 overdrive was well fit for my rear end gearing and tire height.

I have a crank in good shape for certain, and might have a rod. I'd be all over a P90 head for trade; I sent you a PM saying basically the same thing.

I can confirm that the XTD flywheel for the RB20DET that does NOT have the groove cut in it like the stock flywheel WILL accept a 250mm 350Z clutch and pressure plate. Something that looks like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-S-LIGHT-FLYWHEEL-SKYLINE-RB20DET-RB25DET-RB26DETT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51905bdc80QQitemZ350314290304QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I also have another flywheel that I will be purchasing soon NEW as a stock replacement item that I'll report back on when it arrives, as it's only 54$ shipped...and it's a brand name. It too, has a 250mm friction surface, and is a 20lb chromoly unit.

Hey Flatblack-I found the 250mm L-series clutch solution! You need an aftermarket RB20DET chromoly flywheel. Make sure it does not have the groove cut in it like stock; the XTD flywheels on Ebay are suitable. The 350Z clutch and disk will fit perfectly on this wheel, and you'll have a 12lb flywheel and a 250mm clutch!

Those piston crowns look BEEFY. How much does a piston/rod assembly weight? As for pistons; there are some solutions to that. Lookin at the block, I can't help but wonder about cylinder wall thickness.