Xnke

Problem with that is the runner length is maxed out at about 7", once you account for the bend you need. Plus, that really sharp turn the air has to make to get into the throttle bodies is going to completely negate any kind of gain, unless you smooth the turn out some. (Or, I'm just totally not seeing how this goes together) EDIT: I see how it works now. Disregard that bit about negation, and all that crap. Forgot about the turbo... Use what is in your hands to minimize the amount of complexity. A good fabricated part is as simple as possible, but no simpler. I'd start out by setting up the intake flange and runner tubing to the throttle bodies, and get that worked up first; and make it flat. Then you could have the plenum mount on that, then the top of the plenum has the "upper plenum" (your triangular thing) coming out of the top of it, eliminating the need for any bent tubing. The whole upper plenum could be made from formed sheet aluminum, fairly easily. cut out the upper and lower plates, roll them to fit the curve, then the diverters and sideplates could be cut from sheet to fit the already formed plenum curves. A bit of hammertime, and some aluminum tubing to match your intercooler tubing, and BAM! upper plenum that bolts/welds onto whatever size main plenum you want.

Ok, stock N36 carb manifold, head side: ports 1-2, 50mm, ports 2-3, 96mm, ports 3-4 don't know, ports 4-5 96mm, ports 5-6 50mm. These are all measured center to center. Stock port diameter on my N42 head was 33-34mm. I'll try to get the distance from 4-5 tomarrow, off one of my spare heads. If it was me, I'd situate the throttle plates horizontal, placing the throttle bodies so that if you got a wild hair to run N/A, you could run big vertical horns through the hood, or bolt the top half of the intake on to run forced induction. Something like this: It also simplifies the mounting considerably, since you don't have to worry quite so much about hood clearance.

Yes, the lowest flowing intake was 170, the highest flowing was 172, and the exhausts were all within 1CFM, except #6, which was 117. I touched up #6 a bit when I got it back, hopefully it picked up some. Yep, 2883cc's, 9.5:1 compression, and it runs on 89 just fine, so far. Su's for now, conversion to fuel injection is in the works for later. L28 crank, L24 rods, Z22S +1mm pistons, N42 head.

According to Rebello, the springs are usable to .600 lift or so, and can hold off valve float to 8000 RPM. They are the "A" spring set, that they sell. for 120$, I think they're just peachy, myself. As to the visible offset in the ports: Yes, I noticed that when I was doing the porting, and decided to use it, just to see what happened. It's not nearly as severe as the photos make it out to be; it really looks scary in the pictures. Seems it did ok, although after looking at some BC Gerolomy porting sheets...I think the flow bench was optimistic. I really don't see my port job flowing on par with at BC Gerolomy job. The manifold hasn't been flow tested; at the time I sent the head to to machine shop to have the valve job done, they put it on the flow bench as practice. They had just bought it and were still learning how to integrate the measurements into the graphing programs the machine came with. Basically, the manifold that is on the car currently is tapered up from 38mm up, as the E46 manifold tapers up internally. All I did in the manifold was match it to the ports, and smooth the internal finish out wit sanding wraps.

The FS5W71C from 86.5 and up has upgraded syncros, but structurally, they are all the same from 1984 and on. The way to tell is in the size of the countershaft bearing, as this is where the extra strength of the KA/VG transmission comes from. (by the way, the Z31 non-turbo VG30, RB20, KA24, SR20, CA20e, and CA18DET transmissions are all the same, just different bellhousings, gear ratios, and the 86.5 split in syncros.) When you installed the C box transmission, did you swap the countershaft bearing, or have the L series bellhousing machined to fit the larger countershaft bearing? If you have the small B box countershaft bearing, you are limited to the same strength as the original transmission, more or less. If you upgraded to the larger C box bearing, then you are good to about 350HP or so.

Ok, this is my N42 head, during the assembly phase. Photos are the best I could do with my crappy camera. I think i have some more, but i'd have to hunt them up. Photos of the ports: And then a (blurry, arghhh) photo of the chamber side: So, Now that you've seen the ports, it's time for the specs: Combustion chamber CC's : 42cc's, within .25cc of each other, and 88MM cylinder diameter Port size: 38mm intake, exhausts are 2mm taller and 4mm wider, to match the gasket and my header better Intake flow: 171cfm at .454" valve lift, pretty dang good, I think! Exhaust flow: 119cfm at .454" valve lift Intake valve is 44.5mm diameter, swirl polished Exhaust valve is 38mm diameter Both intake and exhaust seats have been opened up to fit the port and valve, as seen (kinda) in the crappy photos above Cam is a 234* duration at 0.050" lift, .454" max lift cam from delta. Springs are Rebello outers, and stock inners; supposed to be good to any lift I'd ever be running on the street. Anyone care to comment? I meant to post this before actually assembling the engine and running it, lest i needed to make changes/improvements. As soon as I get the dang thing roadworthy and halfway tuned up, I'll head to the dyno to get a set of curves, and we'll see just how good or bad I really did.

I'm thinking this is pretty close to "OMFG", myself. LOVE this intake.

Ok, so i'm looking into spring solutions for my car. I've got new stock struts, and my springs are in good shape, but I've read about it; and while they aren't sagging, sitting in the car i can bounce it quite a bit. I will be doing a lot of highway driving, and the highways here are mostly pretty smooth, but when they get rough it's a wavy roughness, rather than potholes or breaks in pavement. Now, all I can find is that some people are using Moog 6556 springs, for a chevette, but no one says if they are using them on all four corners, front only, rear only, or what. I know that you'd have to cut coils on them to get them to the same ride height, and have the following data: Moog 6556: ID = 3.45" Bar Diameter = .5" Load rate = 808lbs Spring rate = 197lbs/in Free height = 13.75" Moog 6558 ID = 3.45" Bar diameter = .5" Load rate = 861lbs Spring rate = 197lbs/in Free height = 14.06" I am under the impression that the stock springs are around 100lb/in rate, and have no other information on them. Would changing to the stiffer chevette spring be an upgrade, or an annoyance, for a car that spends 90% of it's time on the street, if not more? I do enjoy a car that turns with minimal body roll, but don't want a bone-jarring ride either. Also, are people putting them in on all four courners the same; or replacing the back springs and moving the back springs to the front, or what?

No, you just don't understand how they work. the flat top carbs are superior to the roundtops, ONCE you get the operation thought out. They don't work the same, and the flat top carbs have more guts inside to break. But you can get a more economical, more precise fuel curve out of them; and for a stock motor, the flat top carb can be set up to be just perfectly fine. Just because the implementation of the flattop carbs sucked in 1973/74, doesn't mean that the carburators themselves are terrible. If i could find a set of HIF8 carbs, (british 2" flattops) i'd be all about grabbing them.

Get a P79, if you're worried about the exhaust ports being round. shave/shim like P90, or get an MN47 and open the chambers up to what you need.

Good to know they've finally fixed that cam, 280Zex. Mine's still a .454" lift, I'll have to call them and find out about the new grind. Still gotta get on the dyno first to know if i need more cam. Have you thought about going to the EDIS timing system? it's really, really easy, and gives you practically infinite control of the timing. And for about 180$ out the door, and two hours to set it up, I still can't think of anything better for a street/strip car. Since you're running a carb, you'd use a MegajoltLight jr. system; PIP, SAW, Power, and Ground, then a MAP line and you're set!

It'll eat your wideband, and has a slower flame travel speed. Other than that, no reason i can see to not use it.

Just to let you know, that cam is not .480 lift. Measure it and you'll see it's a .454" lift, 234* duration at .050" valve lift. (still 280* total duration, though.) Curious, why are you giving up power by running a locked dizzy? Safety net?

Look at your gasket bores. ALL of them are ovaled, you are detonating. Pull 5 degrees of timing, and try again.

Clutch bands are too tight; needs to be adjusted.

The lash pads all come from the same place, and all the .160" lash pads you are going to find are going to have some amount of surface rust on them, unless you have them made or discover a new source of them. Same for .170" lash pads, I'm afraid.

No, KTM I think what Flatblack was getting at is that the flywheel in question is steel, not aluminum. Does fidanza make a steel flywheel for the L28, or are they all aluminum?

Hey guys, i have been working on the exhaust for my Z, and had to merge two 2" pipes into one 2.5" pipe. There are many ways to do this, but this one takes the cake as far as ease and cheap-factor: http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=65147.0 Food coloring! now, why didn't i think of that?

remember to install a pilot bushing in the end of that crankshaft, too. It likely does not have one installed if it was an auto!

Ok, got the car running, broke in the cam at 2000RPM for 20min, brought the engine up to temperature. Gonna have to get the advance worked out; the car won't even start with any less than 22* in the spark tables on the Megajolt. Runs pretty good; back three cylinders were running a hair lean and I got one of the header tubes (#4) up to 900F before I caught it and richened it up a bit; the tube cooled right back down. Getting a new timing light this evening; GOT to get that advance figured out.

10$ for the new valve; check with your local shops for valve job prices. Might only have to get that one seat done; but you might as well do them all.

Awesome torque plate. I bet that sucker weighs 75lbs, maybe more. How did you determine that the bores were going out of round at high RPM? Increased blowby? PCV hoses blowing off? Really, I'm curious as to how that can be measured/determined, I can't think of a really good way to do it. Course, I haven't really looked, either.

You're probably going to bust the skirts off the piston; as the offset is to help keep the piston straight in the bore during the expansion stroke. That's about all i'd be able to say; Hopefully one of our engine builders will be able to help more.

On a hunch, I bumped the ignition timing from 12* to 22*, simulating if my timing was retarded by 10*. MUCH MUCH better; a bit much, but it actually cranks and wants to run at this level of timing. No more backfiring, I'll probably back it down to 18* or so, and see if it still wants to run, then fix my trigger wheel so my timing readouts are accurate. Now, how the hell could this happen? I double and triple checked that my VR sensor is looking directly at the 6th tooth past the gap when #1 is at top dead center. Does my engine really need that much timing to crank and run??? Haven't checked it with the light yet; my timing light is being a pain and won't trigger right. And on top of it all; I can't see the timing marks, since I have an L24 damper and an L28 timing cover. timing marks are on opposite sides of the engine, so i'll have to set #1 at TDC and mark the damper to match the L28 timing cover.

Just got my new engine back in the car and wired up; cranks over fine, valve timing checks out good; SU carbs are rebuilt and work correctly. Float bowls are set correctly. mechanical fuel pump works properly; fuel pressure is 3.5psi. Megajoltlightjr controlling a EDIS-6 setup, controller, EDIS-6 and coilpack test fine; I have the burn mark on my hand to prove it. (knocked the ♥♥♥♥ out of me already) Symptoms: WILL NOT start. Pops out the tailpipe rarely; sneezes through the carbs mostly. Reversion ranges from a cough to a plume of fuel being blown out the carb throats. It seems that my ignition timing is too far advanced; but I'm running EDIS and have checked my trigger wheel a hundred times. At #1 TDC, the VR sensor is looking directly at the sixth tooth past the missing tooth. MAP is 100kpa-96kpa during cranking, but megajolt is showing zero RPM. EDIS should still provide 10dbtdc timing, regardless. That should be enough to get the engine going, provided that it's going to. Anyone got any kind of pointers here? ANYTHING?