Xnke

Or get a 71-74 driveshaft and not worry about it; 71-74 are rebuildable from the factory.

That gasket looks fine to me; I don't see any spots where it blew out. the Fel-pro gasket that you have there is used all the time and as long as proper head bolt torque is attained, can break internals before it blows out, whereas a Nissan oem gasket will blow before breaking internals, IN MOST cases. The water pump damage is from not running anti-freeze, and the milky nastyness could be from the timing cover corroding through. I'd check that motor over carefully; something is definately amiss.

If you are, then so am I! that engine looks to either have the cam cover on backwards, or it has the intake/exhaust on the other side of the head!!

Don't crosspost. It's not polite, and doesn't get you anywhere. Use the search button, this has been discussed a thousand times.

I have done it for two other people, plus myself. If they bring me the Zedd Findings floor kit, it's only 6 hours per side to do, if I'm forming the floors from sheet stock and rails from tubing, it's a solid 10 hours per side. I'm no professional, though. Nor have I ever been able to just cut an weld to the original seam points; that would make it go faster. Make no mistake, doing the floors isn't really hard, but it does take a lot of time to make the new ones fit properly and be structurally sound. My method uses some sheetmetal screws to hold the floor in place during welding, so that as you stitch the floors in, the sheetmetal doesn't move too much.

You need a RHD center console to do the swap....look at the parking brake. I'm sure you could modify the console to fit, but the RHD console fits from the start.

http://www.Allelectronics.com. Check out the switches section; they have lighted 14v rocker switches for 50c each, and lots of styles.

Nissan Type C 5 Speed '87 200SX Non-Turbo Weight: 75 lbs. Length (bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing): 31" Shifter position (bellhousing to center pivot): 27.5" Pretty sure that the 200SX trans is the transmission case to use, as it requires only that the dust collar on the driveshaft be removed. No need for a 50mm shorter driveshaft, just cut the dust collar spot welds, and it fits. All C box transmission internals can be used in the 200SX trans case; I recently swapped my 200SX gearset for a modded 240SX/720 pickup gearset to get the gear spacings set up the way I think I'll like them.

Hmmmm...I'd be down for two unground billets if you can get them, Tony. Let me know the cost and if you accept paypal. (I cover the fees.)

The oil filter boss is interesting, as i have seen three types. My 1975 N42 has a three-point pattern cast in for the oil cooler. The bosses are not drilled or tapped, but they are present. I guess the F54 block has a four-point pattern?

Now there's an idea. I have some 275cc injectors, (8 to be exact) and was thinking that if i was to graft manifolds, i could add a half inch or so to the runner length and put the injector up in the stock location. You've reminded me that I could add that half inch on the spacer too, and get the same effect, and have the injector pointed upstream, "pissing into the wind" so to say. I bet I could probably trade those 275's to a N/A stocker guy, and get some 680's (RX-7 stockers) or 450's (DSM turbo stockers) to mount in the doublethick spacer plate, and likely could use VG30DE throttle bodies as air doors. Those TB's are pretty thin, front to back, and common. So, best to aim them at the middle of the throttle shaft? With the injectors vertical, would it also be better to have the throttle shafts vertical?

That's a good question Tony, I don't know about the TBI duty cycle ratings. I'd still like to keep injector duty cycle under 90%, though. Yes, 680cc/min. What a typo! (curiously enough, there are RX-7 injectors in BOTH sizes!) I'm still up in the air; If i can cut and graft an EFI and a carb manifold together, I can lengthen the runners by about half an inch with no change in air filter location. Not sure if it's needed or if it will make a big change, still have not done the math on that yet, but it is a possibility. The only thing in the way is the external water line from 5 and 6 up to the thermostat housing, I used 3/8" copper line. It's all held tight against the head, so if i change the bend near the thermostat housing from two 45* bends to a pair of 90* bends, the water line is no longer in the way, and port injection can be used. Or, if i redo the line and two of the 90* fittings to use straight fittings, i can route the line up tight against the manifold, and have a much easier time bleeding the air out of the line. (Guess this means Photo Time, to get a good look at the system.) In the end, I LIKE the way that Z-ya's manifold came out visually, and how it picked up 10HP peak and 20ft-lbs of low RPM torque. I'm not expecting such dazzling results, but like Derek's trumpets, the goals for this are: Look Cool. Look Really Cool. Be Functional. (paraphrased, of course.) I'm thinking to get to 180HP NA, I'll take all the help I can get, as long as the engine remains streetable.

Call up MSA or Schneider, and ask. They use CWC cores.

Hoping for 180RWHP NA, on a 2950cc bottom end, with a head that flows 171cfm per intake at my desired valve lift (.455" valve lift) and 25"WC. I have a bigger cam (.480" valve lift) waiting to be ground if this one does not get me there. (Have an opportunity to be doing some cam development, working with Delta camshaft.) The large injectors are for if I get the "let's pressurize the whole system, and see what we can get" bug, since I've already got a ZXT manifold sitting on the shelf. I figure that for 200HP, I'd need 2 700cc/min injectors, at 80% duty cycle. It's all just a pipe dream at the moment, but theorizing and working out the bugs is part of making pipe dreams reality.

Here you go-Crappy angle, but you can see there are no lugs on this cam. I'd grab more shots of it, but the valve cover is already on and the engine ready to drop in my car tomorrow.

My '72 had a LOT of hoses and lines running all over the place; it looked really terrible. Looked like a new car, once you take all of the plastic covers off. Anyway, I just realized that I'll have to move my external water line; it's in the way if I go the port fuel injection route. I'm thinking i can run it up under the intake manifold, which would solve all the interference problems. If I do go with the throttle body injection route, It will be with a custom throttle body; something that uses a pair of the 1680cc/min injectors from a RX7 turbo or similar. The idea is to make a pair of 50mm throttle plates, with a cam actuation for better tip-in response, that use a standard top-feed or side feed (top feed seems simpler so far) injector. The GM TBI injectors would work fine, I forgot that they came in the really huge sizes too. Eventually, I'll be casting/fabricating a whole new manifold; but that's in the far field. Long way off.

Ok. Time to correct this whole Siamesed-cylinder thing. As far as i can determine, this is correct. THE F54 BLOCK IS NOT SIAMESED. THERE IS A WEB WITH A HOLE IN IT BETWEEN THE CYLINDERS. A siamesed block means that the cylinders are cast in pairs, joined together, with no hole or gap between them. This describes the N42 block, NOT the F54. Sorry to shout, but I see this thrown around so often, it's not funny anymore.

I considered that, and for a long time, that was the way i was going to go. I decided that I'd rather not bother with that, though, because it was starting to look cluttered, like the snakepit of hoses that came on the late 72/73/74 cars. I'd really prefer the clean look, if i an get it.

Tony, I think the un-lugged cams are just not as common. I can't find a picture of mine that really shows the un-luggedness, but I don't have any CWC cams either.

Weird. I have only seen L4 cams with those lugs....I had to use a pair of vicegrips to hold my cam for torquing the cam bolt...

No, that cam rules out the ZX EFI. You'd have to go with some other engine management, as far as I know. As far as the other mods, it would run, but not to the best of the ability of the engine. But as far as running it on the ZX EFI, not with a cam that big.

Hoping to get some imput from Z-ya and Derek and others who have looked at or have built their own injected intake manifolds. I'm getting ready to set up with megasquirt and have aquired some parts to get started, over a long term. (MS-1 basket case, EDIS setup, 275cc 11mm o-ring injectors, injector clips, other bits and pieces) I'm looking at converting an N36 carb manifold to fuel injection, and have three options, as I see it. 1. Follow through like Z-ya did, and merge a FI manifold with a carb manifold. Pros: -Commercially available fuel rails will fit -Stock injector holes will all line up to hit the valve stem and back of the intake valve -Less concern of welding distortion in the injector ports Cons: -I'll have to get a FI manifold to butcher -Lots of welding in hard to reach spots (between the runners is pretty tight for my spool gun) 2. Machine up some injector bungs and mount them on the carb manifold. Pros: -Cheap. I can machine the injector bungs myself, they are not that difficult. -Can place injectors anywhere I want -No need to cut up a FI manifold I don't have Cons: -Will have to machine my own fuel rail -Concerns on where to place and aim injectors -Welding distortion may be a problem 3. Throttle body injection with custom throttle bodies Pros: -No manifold modifications -Chance to do some more aluminum casting (YEEE HAAA!) -Chance to produce a small run of parts Cons: -Lots of time to produce patterns for casting -Lots of time to produce parts to fit machined casting -Injector placement concerns -Need to get bigger injectors than what I have now -Fuel rail issues Anyone have any thoughts or ideas? Suggestions and ideas are most welcome.

I used some 20thou shim stock and cut my own, using the original shims I had as templates. I belive that somewhere around here on the internet, someone had CAD drawings of the shims, for having the thicker shims CNC'ed from sheet stainless.

Tony, I have never seen an L6 cam with holding lugs on it. I have 6 cams stockpiled, and none have a holding lug. All say JAPAN on them. The two L4 cams, however, have the holding lugs. Like you said, if you can find some cam blanks, let us know! I'd be down for two, as long as they have appropriate metallurgy.

Ok, so while I was at the parts yard saturday, I decided that I just could not resist pulling some fuel injectors and injector clips. for 25$, I pulled 8 injectors, and 8 clips. (half price day) FYI, *some* of the mitsubishi galant/eclipse 4G64 motors had a different style of injector clip that does not use the little wire spring thing. They have two thumb-clips that don't detach from the connector, and thus don't get lost or break so easily. These clips fit a regular 280Z/ZX injector just perfect. I pulled 8 of these injector clips, and 8 275cc/min injectors, for my long term fuel injected L28. I'm going to be working with a manifold similar to Z-Ya's EFI-SU manifold, as seen here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124201&highlight=EFI+manifold And running the calculators through, these injectors should hold my (again, long term here) power goals of 250HP adequately. This is a naturally aspirated motor, for the time being, (yeah, I know I'm not going to hit 250HP N/A, but a turbo is not out of the question down the road. We'll see what happens.) My question is, does anyone else have any advice or insight on this choice of injector size? It's bigger than a stock L28ET injector, but just barely. I will be running a megasquirt controller, and EDIS timing. Any kind of discussion would be helpful, as all my searching has pulled up people going to 310cc units and up. I'm not going to be pushing huge numbers here, these injectors are to get me started naturally aspirated, then I'll grab some 450cc/min units later, when I need them.