redruM_0381

All, I've been a member on this forum for a long time, but rarely post. I mostly lurk and learn, until I can afford a Z to fiddle with. However, today I have a reason to post. My Wife Ashley is going to run the 2009 Nike Women’s Marathon on October 18th. She will be in the “Team In Training†Charity team, in which proceeds go towards the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society for Cancer research and support. If you have a minute, check out http://www.ashdash.com . Any contributions that you can make towards curing cancer will be GREATLY appreciated! Also, any contribution over $100, and Ash will hand knit a “cozy†for your portable electronic device (iPod, phone, etc.), kinda like this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/jesdmill/ipod003.jpg?t=1243379862 Also, if you can spread the word around, that would be awesome! Thanks guys! -JJ

I own a 82 GS750E myself, you can check it out here: Its not cafe'd, but it has several mods, and drag bars for a more agressive look I also have a CB450 that I'm building into a cafe racer: although I havent worked on that bike in a while

My wife's civic has the EXACT same problem on occasion. I found out it CONSISTANTLY burns plug wire boots right at the seam between the long plastic piece, and the rubber end. The arc then shorts to ground. Its' gone through 3 sets of wires within 2 years. Same problem every time! If I wrap the seam with a couple of layers of electrical tape, it fixes it for a while, but it eventually arcs through it.

Looks like a sidevalve briggs motor that somebody made a diy OHC setup for.

Found this using google images: A bit of tweaking, and you'll have what you need

Found a vid of the 1/6th scale 327!! http://youtube.com/watch?v=xObxrTEg-L8

The project that I can never finish.... 74' CB450 cafe racer. Modified frame, ducati style seat, clubman bars, Yamaha R1 rearsets, and soon to have a new tank. 34mm mikunis, electronic ignition, straight headers.. Soon to have Todd Henning 74mm high compression pistons.. approx 14:1 compression @ 497cc

...But if he is, I invite him to elaborate: (Language warning)

Then you see something like this:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=teabagging

**bump**.. I dont want to see this thread die...

I agree. That episode frustrates me more than any other, cus it CAN be done.. They didnt try nearly hard enough... with some hopper redesign, that "bow" type engine would of worked! BTW, that was a briggs n stratton 5hp.. Its a sidevalve 4stroke, not a 2... it probaly just had totally worn rings, hence the oil..

That looks like the fuel pump to me... EDIT: Oh wait... already mentioned above..

If they keep blowing, you could always add a 10-20 ohm or so resistor to the speaker...

That vid I posted is NOT the CSR mixer.. Its a new feature discovered built into LFS V (dunno about patch Q though) just type: /edit_eng while playing then hit Shift+A It still doesnt use samples, all realtime calculated

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1217 http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/580/Speakers.html If you head to http://www.mouser.com, you can probably find the EXACT replacement part #

LFS is just getting better and better... Now that edit_eng has been discovered, we can make the engine sound simulation sound awesome. Coupled with LFSTweak, you can make some monsters that sound terrific: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aS3jU9w4C4w That engine sound is 100% realtime simulation of a V8. No recorded samples!

Damn... lots of valve overlap on that sucker. Looks cool! EDIT: Oh wait.... This is prolly 4 valve, and I only see 2 of the intakes, or 2 of the exhaust?

Interesting! I stand corrected, thank you sir! Edit: BTW Gemini, you can bring up the onscreen keyboard and turn the caps off if its stuck... Start-->Run-->type in OSK and hit ok. That should let you shut it off.

How on earth does a busted capslock capitalize only the first letter in every word? o_O

Its a little outside your pricerange, but if you can find one, The Panasonic PV-GS500 is incredible. 3ccd, 30fps progressive.. Its basically a pro MiniDV crammed into a consumer package.

Scariest/luckiest accident ever: http://www.mustangworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=457943

Remove the cartridges and clean the gold contacts on the cartridge and the printer with qtips dipped in rubbing alcohol. Also clean the print head itself in the same manner. If it still wont print after that, get a dish of HOT water thats about 5mm deep. Dip the cartdige in the water print head first, and leave it sit for about 15 minutes, occasionally swirling it around etc. Dry it off good. That should do it! If it still wont work, its time for new cartridges! EDIT: All the above is assuming that you have removable cartridges, and not just the removable ink "bladders", whereas the print head is NOT removable... if THIS is the case, you could get daring and take the printer apart to clean the head

Look at all the flux residue... Looks like flux core wire feed to me, or maybe stick... But not a gas mig Flux core make ugly, but good penetrating welds