dexter72

I would look at the turbo section and go from there. Plenty of Z's are running 14's and faster with stock turbo's, boost turned up to 10. T3/T4 and Holset turbo cars going faster, with boost turned up to 15 or higher.

Since I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I would much rather be able to look at my pressure gauge and adjust my fuel pressure at the same time. Then try to adjust it from the rear of the car, then walk up front or inside the car to check the pressure.

You have waited 5 months to start your engine, Good God Man. Your car could have been tuned in December of last year. These steps can be done in an hour. Read the Manual, Use the injector calculator, fill in your timing table, fill in your Ve table and start your engine.

You can have the bent wheels fixed at a wheel repair shop. They will be good as new when fixed. Look up some shops in your city.

You say your car won't charge your battery, What is happening that leads you to say that?. Did you test the alternator and the battery?. What were the results?. Just so we have more info to try to help you out.

Now we expect more of you than this Mr. jk. Sorry man, I have used your tunes and settings since I installed megasquirt 3-4 years ago. So this weekend comes the new headgasket right?. )

Yes you swap out the half shafts, Then you swap Diff flanges. I did this in my 260z. You might be able to even use the finned clsd diff cover also. Won't fit in the Z's. But may work on your ZX. Is that straight enough for you.

What year 300zx?. Or What year Q45?. I may be able to get you those. So its both rear axle shafts, parking cables and rear brake calipers?.

Check the voltage at that wire whith the key turned to start, and the wire disconnected from the starter. If you have low voltage at that wire, may be an issue in the wire or components before the starter.Correct voltage at that wire, means bad connection or bad starter.

If you have the wide band like you said you do. After you get the engine running, just get the engine to idle then rev and keep your airfuel ratios at 11.5 to 12.5. You can then get it over to the tuners. But the fun of this setup is taking the car out and starting to tune the engine yourself. ) You cant blow the engine up if your just driving it normally over to the tuners shop.

Maybe better to ty to contact people in z clubs in Philly, PA, MD, NY, NJ. Or even say what the probles are your having with your car

Have you tried using the two tunes that were suggested to you in November and December?. Both of those tunes are very close to your setup., All you have to is reduce your injector numbers by a small percentage in the VE Tables. Its not that hard. You can put numbers in for an entire VE Map in less then 20 minutes. There is also an injector calculator in megatune. Check the Megamanual its also very easy to use.

Did you check on Craigslist in Phoenix?. A guy is selling ZXT parts from two cars. He is a member of zcar.com and is selling parts in the classifieds.

I think you should start saving up for an EMS setup and wideband. The components look good but can you even tune it?.

Is there a girl in that pic?.

You can lap the valves yourself if your seats look good. You can buy valve compound at most auto parts stores. After you lap the first valve, check that the seating mark on the valve is in the middle of the valve surface. Not a big deal. You may need to shim the cam towers after getting the head resurfaced.

I thought a guy from this site had pics of that set up a while back, I think those are his parts.

Your bigger injectors are low impedence injectors right?.

Are your injectors to small?. Check fuel pressure and under a load?. I put 315cc injectors in my turbo engine after adding megasquirt and I couldn't tune it past 3500 rpm. After installing 440cc injectors my problem went away.

You can use a small mirror to detect exactly where the leak is. If it is a Casting plug that is leaking, I would consider replacing all of them.

I think the problem is not that the rpms would be to low, its more along the lines of you won't be in a low gear long enough for the turbo to spool up nicely. Thats the issue I had and some others have had depending on which trans people are using with a 3.90 or 4.11 rear diff. First gear was almost useless, I was shifting out of it so quick it was unreal. When in 3rd gear it was great. I had a turbo on my n/a engine, late model 5spd and a 3.90 diff. When I switched to a 3.54 turbo diff, First and second gear power was a ton better because I was in those gears longer. There should be a lot of info on this in the archives. I bet you can find a combo that you will be more than happy with, so you won't have to keep swapping parts. Also the turbo on a 200sx is smaller the last time i remember seeing one.

I think you would enjoy building another car so I would buy a z and redo it to your liking. I would not trade the Mustang, I would sell it instead and use the money from the sale, to build your dream Z.

Saw in an earlier post that the Big Block olds engines are too wide for a Z. My friend and his dad were all about Big Block olds power. When my friends dad was younger he would race the guys who just bought Big Block chevelles, impalas, corvettes and all. A ton of people would buy those cars and take them straight to the track from the dealership, back in the day. He said they would be pissed that they got beat by his Olds. Especially when the salesman would tell them there is nothing on the street that can touch them Big Block Chevys. lol I don't ever remember going over there house and not finding an engine or two apart in there kitchen. De-stroked is the word. )

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I have a used set with the connectors PM me.