m4xwellmurd3r

well, let's put it this way. If you pull EVERYTHING out except the CPU, and you STILL don't get any beeping, then your cpu/motherboard is toast, and you're SOL and due for a new computer. Don't worry, you can build a halfway decent cheap system for under 500 if you know what parts to buy and how to put it together. What happened with your other system? Maybe we can fix that one, since the first busted one seems to be a basket case.

Drives can disable a computer if they crash. I had my 7 year old 20gig go on me once, and the computer would refuse to post until I took it out. Not sure why, but that's what happened. My dad's Seagate SATA drive did the same thing. I have a video card that is damaged somehow and the computer won't post with it in. I've had bad ram cause the computer not to post AND I've had chipped CPU die's well, die. I've been lucky. Not one bad MB yet. That's why whenever I diagnose my computer I unplug everything except the CPU to make sure it shoots me an error, then start putting in the most essential parts (video card if no onboard, ram, hard drive, then cd drives.) I probably should save for a new computer, but meh, till this one dies I'll keep it (I think it's my....4th or 5th computer.) Anyways, no-post errors suck, because it can be ANY component really. It can get damaged in such a way that instead of not being detected, it shoots stupid signals that keep the computer from posting at all.

holy crap that was a freaky looking run!

Stay away from any pre-built computers. they all suck IMO. and really it can be anything. whenever my computer does it, I pull out ONE thing at a time till it beeps. and by one thing, unplug a part, turn on. if no beep, plug part back in, unplug something else, no beep, plug in, and try something else. it's the only way to really diagnose something. you COULD go backwards and start with EVERYTHING taken out except the CPU. it should at LEAST make angry beeps with the CPU in. then start plugging things back in till it stops beeping. Start with the memory, then the video card, then the A drive (floppy drive) then hard drive, and finally the CD drives.

well it's worse than a post error if no beep. if it does beep, but the beep isn't a single short beep, THEN you have a post error. On my computer a memory error will run as a series of about 3 long beeps. when my video card went though, it wouldn't even shoot a post error, and would give the problem the OP is having. A dead hard drive caused the same issue. In the WORST CASE scenario, a fried CPU will cause the same problem (but is VERY unlikely unless you overclock your CPU and over volt it till it overheats and burns out.

he said it WON'T boot. if that's the case, well, you're kinda fucked. if there are NO beeps, you're really fucked. usually it means well, something inside went BOOM and that part is now causing the entire computer to well, go POOF. but how are you online right now if your computer went poof? XP jk a bit on that. I have about 3pc's of my own as far as parts go. BUT, first question. Do you get any beeping if you turn it on? If yes, what's the pattern? if NO, then....well, it's time to start pulling parts till you DO get a beep.

I really don't think that your car is suffering vapor lock. I live in arizona, and even after a hot day and an overheated engine, my engine cranks fine. Fuel injected systems run under too high of pressure for vapor lock. how did you "confirm" that the fuel is boiling in the lines? it could be something else, like a finicky sensor somewhere.

that's an Alvis Silver Eagle 20. the car pictured is a 1933 Gotta save and upload to tiny pic if you don't want people looking back on your links. no one's tried mine yet though here's a hint. the engine cycle it uses, has something in common with our Datsuns.

is that a prototype Rotary engine?!

That was too easy. Being able to see the oil holes made me realize it's a 9 cylinder. Googled up 9 cylinder engine and found this http://www.atomracing.se/6M.html Not sure of the engines exact name, but it's a CRAZY freaking W-9 Try this one

*Dies from the intense beauty* OH MY GOD that thing looks amazing. And yeah, dyno results of a stock modified, then swapped for this is a MUST

Haha, that really doesn't count if you're on the second engine XP My dad's 66 impala is over 400k now on the original engine. His 93 blazer is dead now at about 300k. At around 285k it started having intermittent oil pressure problems, where it would suddenly drop to zero then jump back up to normal. Really weird for it to do that. It wasn't the sending unit either.

Yeah, I love the huge wing On the red Primadonna, I like that oversized whale tail. That compliments it in the way that the whale tail should.

Ah, I figured from the satellite map that the bridge end would flood easier. It really only took me about a minute to find out what road you were talking about XP But yeah. 3am+ADHD=random searches. I've spent 6-8 HOURS non-stop on Wikipedia reading up random articles that start from say~ Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, and end up on the history of the Sega gaming console and gaming history. Whatever peeks my interest I start searching on. So, think the ol' corolla can pass another 300k? And yeah, a lot of cars do hit that point (My Z is at the 170k mark probably. I doubt it's at 270k) But with the amount of beating, I'd say 300k is quite a lot haha.

I love Google maps. And I can see why you'd be crazy driving on Bracken Ridge Road when it floods. From the looks of it, there's a NICE big section that looks like it'll flood during heavy rains next to Brighton Park's Third lagoon XP Also, that bridge on the OTHER end looks like it'll flood too. Funny, according to maps.google.com there is only ONE Bracken Ridge Road in the world. Made it easy to find. Congrats on the big 300

Ah, nvm, I see where I was wrong.

I just did about 5 minutes worth of searching for you. Square port exhaust to round port head is fine. For the transmission, you need to get the Crossmember AND the Driveshaft out of the 5 speed car, which will make it a direct bolt in. It wasn't hard to find. for the exhaust I searched for Square port Exhaust Round port and for the transmission I searched for 240z 5 speed driveshaft. The search feature we have here is a WONDERFUL tool. So next time try using it. 99% of the time, it's been asked, answered, and re-answered MANY times in the past. oh, and as for the new needles, I don't think so. I've never messed with SU's but they might need to be tuned a little richer to make up for the added displacement. Try running a search for that too (Something like, SU's on l28 would seem logical)

I'm still contemplating whether to do it or not for the same reason. My body is about 95-99% rust free, and has no dents that I can't fix myself. I almost just want to say forget it. 225's are big enough for me.

Mostly because I like the EJ's sound. And it is a little shorter too, so less weight on the front.

I just wanna see a Subie engine stuffed into a Z haha. No one has done it, so your car will truly be unique. It would be nice to see someone cram in an EJ into a Z though lol.

WOW I read your thread you made. So, your car is FASTER than a twin turbo V8 car, that probably has better aerodynamics, and is LIGHTER than your car, and with 2 more cylinders. VERY Impressive. after looking at your time slips, you beat him at the light every time, but even if you two were dead even, your 1/8th mile et/mph AND your 1/4 mile et/mph are better. That's pretty awesome.

I don't think he's going to go AWD at all, just rearwheel drive. And stock there wasn't an EG33 Turbo, but it seems like quite a few people turbo them. I'm going to guess with his method of using the EJ series parts.

"Just do it"

As far as driving those on the roads, I'm pretty sure you can just drive them like normal cars without problems. I agree with the murder it theme

Actually that link DOES answer your question. You want to know the rating for the EFI fuseable link. that site tells you that. but I don't know what year yours is. It's different for different years.