m4xwellmurd3r

haha, imagine it more like you just baked the most amazing looking cake that was at the same time the most delicious. You don't want to eat it because it looks so amazing, but at the same time you DO want to eat it because it tastes so delicious. But you can't do both. If you eat it, you no longer can look at it, but if you don't eat it, you can't taste it.

ah, ok, for the l24 that was my plan. stock internals and manifold and a turbo. the car I want actually doesn't have the stock head. the guy said the one on it screwed up a couple valves in it, and instead of fixing the stock E31 head, he put a head that has less compression in it, but at the same time, he said it gave better performance. Ok, say I use stock internals on a 3.0, how much would I be looking at with that setup as far as costs go? Luckily for me, a 70 240z is my dream car, so I'll stick with it and probably build several engines for it throughout my life ^^ I appreciate all the help. Anyways, for the L24 turbo, I'll probably just freshen up the engine I have with new bearings and rings, get everything re balanced if necessary. That hopefully would save me some costs on the turbo route, ya think?

that's the point. the phrase "You can't have your cake and eat it too" means, you can't have it both ways. Say you have 2 things you want to buy, but only enough to buy one or the other, you have to make a choice, since you can't have both.

oh, for price, i'm not quite sure. I'm planning on saving at least 5-6k though, but that's my own personal estimate, without truly knowing the cost to build a 3.0 I'm actually looking for around 240-250+ whp Enough to make you realize it's got some power, but not so much that it becomes a handful ^^ As far as how fast, probably mid 13's if i were to drag race it. but i'd rather set it up more for autox/track racing more than straight drag racing. If I went with the 3.0 I'd keep it n/a, but if I went with the L24 it would be turbo. Of course, I have to get the car first ^^ Money doesn't matter to me, since i'm starting from 0 i'm going to save up more than I need to build the engine. 5k should be enough to build a decent engine though, right? If I were to go with the l24 turbo route, i'd like to keep it carburated, mostly because I don't like dealing with electronics (I come from a 60's vw background) And of course, i'd like to stay away from stock internals. My original plan was to just rebuild the engine with beefier, lighter parts, then turbo it in the future. oh, and DD=daily driver lol Anyways, i sort of want to just stick with the 2 platforms, mostly because those are the two engines I'd want to do the most. I'm also not the best as far as engine builds go (I've built 2 vw engines in the past for my dad's friend, my dad wanted to see if I could do it, both engines SHOULD still be running if the owners are taking care of them) I suppose the biggest problem is my lack of tools. I suppose I could ask a shop for help with building the shortblock though.

I'm curious about something. Which engine is going in? Is it an L28? Whenever I can buy the Z i want (should be able to within the next month) I'm planning on going 1 of 2 routes. One will be a 3.0 stroker, the other would be an L24 turbo. ^^ But i've no clue about what sort of power i could get RELIABLY out of a DD 3.0 or a DD l24 turbo.

lol you started cutting before I could give my 2c, but oh well. I would've done something like put a X section inside the car just above the floor, and tack it in place, so when you take out the strength of the floor, the X section you tac in makes up for it. I learned about doing that for VW's when you replace the heater channel, which is the entire support for the lower part of the body. So, what are ya gonna use the carbon fiber for?

the only thing I don't like is the front end. Clean it up and make blend better and that'll look pretty sweet.

the weirdest phrase EVER "I could care less" It bothers the hell out of me whenever someone says that, because they mean "I couldn't care less" meaning there's no way they could care any less than they do, but by saying "I could care less" they're saying that they DO care.

Even if it does have pressure now, it still could be hurt pretty bad. If it does knock, how bad is it? I spun a rod bearing in my old bug, and I swore it sounded like someone hitting the case with a 10lb sledge hammer.

Hm, interesting. I suppose they want what we have, and we want what they have. Since datsun isn't in japan, and nissan 240z's aren't in america XP Interesting how things like that are isn't it? I like that car a lot too. I'm still trying to buy a Z. it'll be my first z and first car to buy out of my own pocket.

you mean this car?

as a tinkerer and a hopeful future mechanic engineer, it will ALWAYS be my favorite video

geeze~ that thing sounds insane

it actually doesn't look to bad like taht either. When I first saw it, i thought. omfg, that's from my dad's truck haha

the guy's making 2 or 3 more cars right now actually ^^ He's making another 312pb, a 330 P4, and, the best of them all, a 250 GTO ^^ He sold the original for like 1.5million dollars to fund the new ones. is that real enough for a scale model? (he's holding the transmission. you can see the clutch assembly on the engine)

too bad it's not like this ferrari

the 240 i'll probably end up buying next month has a service manual. the owner bought it since he does all the work himself or at his shop (master tech)

I'm also sure you'll need to buy yourself a pressure regulator though. That way you can get a nice high flow pump, and adjust the fuel pressure to what your car needs. http://www.holley.com/12-802-1.asp I'm pretty sure that's the pump my dad's running in his bug.

I Island? In Arizona? You mean Tuscon right? lol I love the sound of I6's especially the RB's

I think about 4-5psi, but i'm not positive. On my dad's race car, i think he runs about 6-8psi. any more and the fuel would push past the needle and seat in his dellorto's I THINK though. I'm not positive

also, how much does that effect your view out the back? in my mom's solara, it's so dark that during the night I can't even see out the back, and during the day i can barley see.

Wow! I bet it's pretty expensive too isn't it? I heard they need a lot of mantinanec to make sure they're working properly. I don't really have the funds for that kind of device, so I think i'll just wing it

The problem is, when you get a car in AZ then bring it into a humid place, within 2 days it's covered in rust. My vw was an arizona car, totally spotless, not a hole or spec of rust in sight. 2 days after bringing it to NC, it was rusting everywhere, 2 months and holes were forming in the floor pan like crazy, and the heater channels were rusting really bad, 2-3 years and the pan has a huge hole in it where the battery goes, and the body is starting to rot a little. So, IF you do get a desert car, as soon as you get it, strip it and seal it. it'll probably save you a lot of work and money if you do it.

and a whopping 56% of them said the SUN o_O

so, what would be required for him? line bore the same size, new bearings, and have the crank checked out? I'm pretty sure that's all my dad did when the thrust bearing on his car siezed, and i think that's all he did when he spun a bearing in one of his other cars. (the spun bearing wasnt an engine he built)