FlatBlack

I was admiring the Holset and intercooler when i looked up at the battery tray - that's awesome. + 50 BHP!

No paint + Loud exhaust + bored local LEOs = 7 warnings, two tickets in one year. I had been in Fayetteville for two weeks, and drove down a busy street one night. I was pulled over and given a ticket for spinning out in the intersection. I didn't do it. I took it to court and it was thrown out. I attribute it to different driving styles from BR to Fayetteville :/ I never got pulled over there.

Interesting... I spent two summers in upsate NY, we would go to Montreal on our days off, and one time while being stopped at the border, a border patrol officer told us that they were illegal. The color... and the wheels... You guys sure know how to make them look good!

That looks amazing. I hope you have a really good radar detector and a super quiet exhaust - you're going to be pulled over constantly with that colour red [Nevermind, last time I was in NY radar detectors were illegal]

It's done!! When is the Holset going in?

I got the new bolts at Fastenal. I misspoke - I didn't use studs, but new bolts. I'm converting to studs tomorrow - I'm going by Fastenal to get the sizes, I'll post up the results/part numbers. I don't feel comfortable running bolts on the turbo manifold. TrumpetRhapsody's swap is done so mine starts this week

What about this? or this? I was thinking the outside vertical semi circle would look nice, so I just Photo chopped it. Your car is super sexy, btw - and I've seen pics of underneath the bonnet as well

I think they are talking about N42 [early L28] blocks, not N42 heads. I was confused at first as well.

Good luck with the turbo rebuild, good to hear you are back. I see you had a MBC on the car, how much boost were you running when the turbo went?

Proper tools are a MUST. I use a 12mm socket with two extensions on a 3/8 ratchet to get past the tubes on my headers. The first time taking the manifolds off with the stock heat shields on was quite a pain in the arse, but I replaced all of the old bolts with new studs. Unbolt the heat shield from the intake manifold first, this is the easiest thing to do. It also is good to know that the bottom of the intake manifold is attached with washers that hold part of the exhaust manifold on as well. Hope this helps you mentally see where the exhaust bolts are:

It's time!! I think my Dad is taking the Explorer to Fort Smith so whenever you are ready on Friday let's go get the long block

$450 to repair the exhaust stud??? Pay for gas and I'll drive over and do it for $100 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146588&highlight=exhaust+stud If you are spending that much money you should probably send your head to BRAAP

Hello! These might help you out a bit more: http://www.z1motorsports.com/ http://www.300zxforums.com http://twinturbo.net/

I have some, and not too far from you.

Twin turbo header, two Holset HY35s, and stock N/A EFI? Maybe some turbo oil lines...

You weren't talking about what I think you're talking about, are you? [The 'car enthusiast' forum ]

Sorry! Yes, you definitely need to do that. I replaced my front bearings a while back so I don't usually think about having 30 year old bearing in there!

3-4 Z forums 1 Local 'car enthusiast' forum

Haa sorry, the picture itself - smoking hookah while in a shop full of Zees - is quite epic.

Seems like I answered this very question yesterday... Wait I did [searched 'slave cylinder' - it was the first post] http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149456&highlight=slave+cylinder Good luck! *edit* On my 78 280Z, I bought the remanned Master Cylinder as well, it works fine but the rod from the pedal to the master that comes on the AutoZone unit is too short. I had to swap rods with my old unit. Other than that It's a good deal and there is a lifetime warranty.

I changed my front wheel studs in less than an hour. [same process] It's not bad. Might as well re-grease your wheel bearings while you're in there.

I love this picture... Taken by my friend Ethan [b5Turbo] Some more from that day...

Get yourself a Factory Service Manual, it shows you what to do, and even has diagrams. Pads are not hard, the caliper is held on with two bolts. To get the rotor off: Take off the wheel, then take off the wheel bearing cover Take the codder pin out, and screw out the nut cover/nut. The rotor and hub will slide out now, there are four bolts [probably rusty] that hold the rotor to the wheel hub. Spray them with penetrant before trying to get them off. Installation is the reverse of removal. Bleed your brakes.

Slave cylinders can be found at your local big box Auto retailer for $16 or $17 and they have a lifetime warranty. Most AutoZones will have them in stock. It has two bolts and is located on the bottom of the tranny on the passenger's side. I can swap slaves in about 10 minutes after doing it so many times Just get someone to pump the pedal while you bleed it and you will be good to go.

How do you know that it is running rich? It has been a couple of years but I think that this is what happened when I had a rusty gas tank and the rust was clogging the fuel filter. Pull the engine bay fuel filter and see if it has rust, that would be an easy thing to check.