speeder

I can see why DavyZ doesn't like it - He's an unknown quantity like most of us!

I've heard the metallurgy story on Isky cams also - but I will tell you with 99% certainty that this problem is improper valve train geometry - a setup problem. Could be spring coil bind, on just the one position, and that should be checked also. "Experienced" machine shop people have been known to be ignorant of the need to check the wipe pattern on EVERY rocker when setting up a new cam and/or reassembling after a valve job that alters valve stem heights. This is especially critical with a performance cam, whose higher lift/duration widens the contact patch on the rocker, giving less tolerance for error. Machinists generally understand the concept of getting the spring seat pressure and coil bind clearance correct, but lash pad selection is a "Datsun" thing.

New Black 17s. No contest with me.

Improper thickness lash pad allowed the cam to wipe off the rocker's contact area. Looks as if a thicker lash pad should have been used to move the contact area away from the pivot.

Doubtful I can get it driveable in time - all the lights are off ,the old front end is off being repaired (Hit a racoon and damaged the air dam section), the new front is under construction and is nowhere near complete. I'm less than 30 minutes away, however, if anyone wants to visit and take a look. I keep beer in the shop fridge.

Let's.

Sounds good to me - I'll be there.

2 factors: 1. excessive piston to wall clearance (Due to wear) allowing pistons to rock, and .... 2. detonation. Heed the universal and conventional wisdom put forth by TonyD: Those who think that this is no big deal with the L28ET have a rude awakening coming. For those newer members who may have missed this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81787&highlight=Weapon Don't be like me and learn the hard way.

I plan to install side skirts - the ends of the old ones are being adapted to fit the new fender contours.

What Drax Said! U.S. Air Force 1964-68, Viet Nam '67-68

Teg, The body kit I'm working with comes from Reaction Research http://reactionresearch.com/280yzgallery.html I didn't take any in-process pictures - The rear YZ install process has been faily well documented by the reaction research site. Just browse around and there is all kinds of info and pictures. Look at Dan Juday's gallery there. Evil, Yeah, the Z's front unibody under the fenders is butt-ugly. First test - fit of the cheek panels indicates lots of cutting/ glassing to make fit, but we can make anything fit anywhere, right? The cheek panels make all that area almost attractive. I agree - JW is cool. I have a few complaints about the YZ kit, however - the biggest one being the short trimming that makes a triangular void where both front and rear fenders curve down on the bottom to meet the car body. In all 4 of these areas I will have to extend the panel by laying glass. I already have the rears done. And really, looking at the job it's going to be hooking cheek panels and rear/side front fenders together, I guess the extra work is small, but still.... The front fenders' fit is not the best, but that's probably not a problem for me since they will be cut and pieced together. I really hate the dzus fastener imprints in the fenders that will have to be sanded off, but again, in the big picture of the total job this becomes minor extra work. I was very pleased at the lack of ripples in the rear quarters, and the general finish of the panels is good. Like I said, the new front end will be quite a while building, and in the meantime I'm repainting and continuing to use the current front. The AZC front removes in about 10 minutes without tools, so the build and fit process for the new front will be a pretty painless, if lengthy project. I just want to get this biatch back on the road - I'm dying to start banging on the new engine, drivetrain, and tires. Bodywork is not my favorite thing, but I'm determined to nail it the first time. Patience is the word, no halfstepping allowed. (Says to self, for the nth time)

Holy tire smoke, Batman - Three of those guys are scary looking!

Tim, you are the man!Can't wait to see what that BIG turbo waiting under your bench can do!

Dan, I have some fiberglass headlight buckets that will be bonded into the YZ front fenders. I had a suprisingly easy time doing this on the AZC front that's on there now. Evil, The laying of mat on top with fenders and hood installed is the way I plan to do it. First I think I'll make hinges and get the hood pivoting the way I like it, and then align and stick the assembly together to the hood. Great minds think alike! I'm working on a hinge design for the one-piece that will lift up as it pivots so that the deep air dam will clear the floor. John Washington talked me into getting the vello rossa cheek panel sections which I'll attempt to integrate with the cut -off lower fender sides that mount behind the rear wheels. Looks doable. A one -piece needs some kind of inner fender, and the cheek panels will provide that. Yeah, I had the same apprehensions cutting my existing one piece apart. "Measure twice,cut once" Lame but very relevent here.

I'm speechless! I'm glad he moved "the sack" out of the way...Darwin Award material for sure.

Evil, I'd like to have some insights on hooking the front end pieces together - I was hanging them on there today doing some thinking - I think that was where the lingering odor of horsesh!t was originating. I think I have a plan but would appreciate hearing how you did it -. Yeah Skrich, solid rear does change the fit, huh? I think M/T does recommend 10" as the optimum width for that tire, but 12 is on the chart's range. You're right, there is big room under there for 12" wheels. Clark, Not sure my L will boil these baloneys....

Yeah Stony, I've been stressing bigtime over fit issues with the 325s - I have the aluminum/delrin rear inner bushings/urethane outers that should limit caster/toe change, and there is almost 1" clearance from the tire to the narrowest gap in the front of the wheel arch. I'm also making sure that there is sufficient space upward - there is at least 3" available travel, and bump stops will be installed to make sure that the tires don't get into the roll cage bolts on the inside of the strut towers under full squat. I've verified with Mickey Thompson that there is no growth of the drag radials with RPM, so all this should be good. I'm running in the neighborhood of 425 rwhp, stick shifted, but the next (non-L) engine will make lots more. I want everything to be ready for that. Everyone, I'll certainly be selling most of the leftovers from this project - A whole sh!tload of mustang wheels, (17X10.5/9" 2003 Cobras -with custom "Z" centercaps - and 18X10/9" Saleen replicas) the 15X10, 6.5" backspace Welds, spacers, 4-lug AZC brakes, and the old front end - Trying to recover some $ to offset the frightening expense of this latest round of new stuff. Again, this will happen when the new front is done and new brakes/wheels are on.Probably 2-3 months away. I'll place ads when ready. Just a thought - maybe we could make a sticky with wheel offsets/backspaces required to fit various combos of flares/struts/coilovers. Looks like people like me who have spent lots of time measuring and trial fitting could contribute to some kind of list/table.

Skich, My welds are 15X10, 6.5" backspace. I have coilovers and 1-3/4" thick spacers/bolt pattern adaptors installed. There is about 1/4" clearance from the tire to the spring perch. Not sure the 7.5" backspace will fit on a Z. I am seriously thinking about removing my 4-lug Arizona Z-car brakes with 4-5 lug adaptors and getting the 5-lug brake kit and the proper wheels to eliminate the spacers. I would consider Ross's brake kit but I think it's too large to fit 15" wheels on. Eliminatrion of the spacers would require the new Pro-Stars to have a 4.75' backspace to fit like the ones I have now - probably the available 4.5" backspace would do it. ZG, I will be retaining the vent panels behind the front wheels. Evil, I will be making a new one-piece from the 4 front pieces of the YZ kit, and molding in some side vent panels similar to those on the current one. Seems to me I remember that you are doing something similar? 260, Myself and some local Z guys used to call Porsches "poochies".

Thanks guys - Although I make mods to get the car to what I want it to be, the opinions of this distinguished forum are always a great sounding board. Nice to have your work and taste/choices validated . I did a lot of agonizing and scheming before "nutting up" and cutting off the old rear flares. The way it looked after this butchery freaked me out in a major way. Tannji, I think you'll see that after paint and sideskirts go on, the car will look very similar to the old style, only enhanced. The 28" rear tires in most of these pictures raise/rake the car to an unattractice, but functional stance, IMO. This will be a look that is only in evidence at the strip. The car sits pretty low on the 25.5" street/ road race tires, giving a much different and conventional appearance. The decision to delete the wing was made from a purely asthetic viewpoint - it just didn't match the new contours. There is a poster of a Daytona Cobra Coupe above my computer, and the YZ rears look very similar. The cobra has a small rear spoiler similar to the popular BRE replica, and I may go in that direction - Aero was pretty good with the old setup (don't ask how I know) and I may have to do something different (maybe widen the wing and restyle the end pieces, or fab a NASCAR-style sheet metal spoiler as on the Reaction Research's white gallery car) once high speed track work is begun. At any rate, with the exception of this one concession to style (still important, however), all changes are for function. Davy, The CCWs will be 18X12-13" rear, 11-12" front. Existing wheels are (max)10.5" rear, 9" front. The YZ front end is at least 2" wider than the existing so-called "IMSA" flares, and I will need to have this front fabbed up to precisely measure before I order.

"I like big butts and I can not lie, you other brothers can't deny .." -Preach it, brother! According to the Queen classic, "Fat bottom girls you make the rockin' world go round". While wet sanding and admiring the new curves we created, I caused Big Ken to look at me sideways by making some remark about stroking my girlfriend's butt. I'm a sick man and need help. I don't know what I'll do with the old one-piece front. The beater has rusty, dented fenders.....but do I want to engage in that level of bodywork again? Bigger engine? I am at (probably past ) the point with the L6 where more power has become very difficult and prohibitively expensive. The roller has been built with big horsepower in mind - Present plans are to build an sohc big-turbo'ed VG30, selected for head flow potential. But that's a long-term project. I plan to stop changing things on this car and just enjoy using it for a while. The LeMans filler is used for just a door - there's a cap underneath. I hope some day to use this as a filler for a fuel cell, which is required for the faster Silver State classes. Silver State Challenge is a several years away yet, but you guys will certainly hear about it.. Dan,aka 5.0_74_260Z is pushing for a Datsun assault in Nevada somewhat sooner. I'm trying to be realistic with the schedule.

Here are some progress pictures of my 280YZ rear flare install. The wheel wells were radiused to acommodate 325/50-15 Mickey Thompson ET Streets on 10" Weld Pro-Stars. http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Butt1.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Butt2.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Butt3.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Butt6.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Butt7.JPG This should address my "blowing away the tires" issues. In the drag race configuration, I will run 26X7.50-15 Hoosier Street Rod Radials on 6" front wheels. http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Side1.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Side2.JPG I was concerned that those large wheel arch cutouts would cause my street tires (315/35-17 on 10.5" Cobra rims) to look strange, but they actually look OK. http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Butt4.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/Butt5.JPG Can't wait to see this new fat @ss painted! The complete repaint will be done in about 2 weeks. The old paint was really getting banged up from shop accidents and lots of careless wrenching. I have decided to lose the ricey Kaminari rear wing - will go with no spoiler initially, then will address aerodynamic needs sometime before Silver State Challenge time. I will repaint (Same color - dark blue pearl) and use the existing one-piece front end for now, but have the complete 280YZ front clip that will be made into a one-piece over the next few months. I plan to get CCW "Classic" style wheels (in black anodize center for the Darth Vader look) made for road race and street to exactly fit the new fat wheel wells, but that will be after the new front is complete. Big thanks Dan Juday for sharing your fuel filler setup for the Le Mans door- I've implemented mine almost exactly as you did. I also owe kjones' Dad (I call him Big Ken) BIG TIME for the skilled body help. I can put things together and make them straight, but need help to get them smooth and shiny.

Jersey, I think you need to come down here and give me some pointers. What you've done with your setup is incredible. I will also be playing with a two-step (My E-motive TEC2 has an auxiliary low-rev-limit function) when I get to the track next. I've set up two-steps on several other drag cars (no turbo cars, however) and they have always helped to add consistency to the launch.

What Mark said. Personally, I think the YZs and engine choice are non-related issues. By all means do 'em both in any combination if you like. I'm just finishing up my 280YZ rears, and today, while looking at that fat @ss (still in primer) filled with 325/50 -15 M/T Et Streets, I told my buddy, "It may not be fast worth a damn, but it sure will intimidate the competition!" Some may say that my car's performance can't match the statement of the widebody and fat meats (these same tires are used on 7-second drag cars) - but I did need bigger rubber than I had, plus have built the evil look that I like.

Hi-Dee-Ho! You're a troubled man, John.

We could take a trailer down there for a road trip. Central Florida Z-Geeks to the rescue again!