speeder

I'd like to know exactly what model you guys get, and how it works for you. I'm looking for an alternative to my gonzo flywheel - eating 6-puck ceramic- something more user friendly, yet strong.

I shortened my ZXT driveshaft 1" to use a T5 in my '77.

John, Mine had an adjustable length arm, and I could lenghthen it enough to go as low as 8 PSI (although my wastegate puck was undersized and wouldn't hold boost that low) shortened all the way it would got to around 12-14 as I recall.

I use the -4 size stainless braided teflon core line for the turbo oil feed, and it has been very durable.

Beautiful work, Tim! Awesome Car. I can't wait to see some performance numbers for this one.

Mine is a 50 A/R housing but it has been machined. I believe the net works out to around 60. I do use a spacer, but have heard of several people who grind the exhaust manifold for clearance. IMO the spacer is the best solution because it gives a bigger air gap. I don't think that there will be any intercooler tube fit issues with this small a spacer - the flexible hose connections easily have that much play.

Hey John, I have a 60-1 in a TO4e housing , with probably a little bigger turbine wheel than yours (P-trimT4) in a T3 turbine housing. I've been very happy with this turbo - I have 12psi by 3200 RPM, with big power made after that. I previously had a T3/t4b (stage III .63 turbine with Super V compressor) that spooled instantly but pooped out at the high end. I would recommend you go to the 60-1. You'll like it.

I just happened have an engine going into my car when James had a manifold. I've temporarily installed this kickass - looking manifold on the car - Had to slightly reclock the turbo and convert to throttle cable from the stock linkage, as well as make a new intercooler tube from IC outlet to throttle body. I still need to get a heat shield to fit and to provide some holddown points for my hose-barb injectors' fuel rail. I'll first install the old manifold (Welded and ported N42) with my Weber 60mm TB and tune/datalog with WBO2. Then I'll swap on the James manifold and see how the WB graphs compare - That should quantify flow improvements. I'll post results.

The Motorsport kit does mount the compressor down low on the drivers' side, also the drier is mounted near the drivers' side strut tower. The drier really is the thing that would be in the way - and it could be relocated with different hoses. I had to do some fabricating to get the evaporator housing to match my 78's ducting..... The system works really well , keeping me cool even on 100degree days.

I'm sure MSA would warrant the ststem- It does have to be charged after installation.

Took me 6 years from getting the car to being driveable. Note that I didn't say, "finished". which hasn't happened yet. I stopped keeping track of money spent when the total got past the ridiculous level. Stay on it - You know you'd just waste your time and money if you didn't have the Z - And the result is worth all the money/ effort.

Great information Tim and Jim! My Z will be running in a week or so with an EGT gauge in addition to WBO2. The correlation between EGT, timing , and AFR is just what I've been looking for.

I used Motorsport Auto's kit in my '78 - about 650.00 and works well. The install wasn't a smooth as you would expect from a specific application kit but the results were good.

Right, they are by Venolia - Selected because they build a very strong, if a bit heavy, piston. Also, I already had a set of almost new pins that saved me about $20.00 per. Cost was $512.00 with pin fit for floaters and pin oiler holes drilled, both extra cost items. Top thermal barrier and and Skirt low friction coatings wil be another 225.00. I've found that coatings let you build a forged piston motor with tighter piston/wall clearances for less cold piston slap and also give a little better tolerance to detonation. Not that I plan to ever detonate my stroker, but a little insurance never hurts...

OK - Got the manual in front of me . It will do 6 cyllinder, mag pickup (such as 280Z/ZX NA diz) or Hall effect pickup. This would work well on an L28.

Got these yesterday - Beautiful! I fondled them for a while, then packed them back up to send to Swain for coating. The process of building an engine - collecting parts and waiting for machine work, etc. is excruciatingly slow! I'm hoping the 3.0 liter will be ready for Reynolds in Sept.

That's the one - MSD has manuals on their web site for downloading - Just make the hookup shown for "points" -type ignitions.

Got to apologise to you guys - haven't been out to get that manual yet, but I will, and look up the distributor setup stuff. It's pretty easy to tune - has 16X16 maps for fuel and ignition, very user - friendly PC software. Probably in between Haltech and Electromotive in difficulty -

Bastaad, The non -turbo distributors can utilize the magnetic pickup wire (green & purple) of the MSD. The ZX turbo's distributor is not compatible with this input so you've got to use the white wire trigger.

I just rebuilt a ZX turbo motor and can tell you that the turbo pistons have a thinner (1.5mm) top ring which helps make the top ring land thicker. The 2nd ring is 2mm like the NA's. The stucture of the piston appears to be the same as the NA's otherwise, although I have heard that the material of the turbo piston is a better material than the NA. I think I heard that the turbo pistons are "high density" castings? (but not forged). That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I use an HKS EVC-EZ electronic controller. This particular one has a switch to select an external (poppet valve ) gate or an internal (swing valve) type gate. If there is no switch on your controller, an external wastegate will need its control hoses connected backwards from the internal gate connections. On an internal gate, control pressure on the top (or outer ) side of the diaphragm pushes to open the swing valve when the set pressure is reached. . On an external gate, pressure to the bottom (inner) side pulls the poppet valve open. The top side of the external's diaphragm receives control pressure to push and help hold the valve closed until set pressure is reached.

I used an MSD 6 with an '81 turbo FI system - wired it to the coil just as in the instructions for a "points" type ignition. I don't have a diagram with me, but I remember that the wires to the coil were removed, then the white wire of the MSD went to the wires that came off the NEG coil terminal, and the red wire went to the wires that came off the POS terminal. Then the orange wire went to the coil POS trminal, and the black wire went to the coil NEG terminal. I left the ignitor transistor in place. I actually tried to trigger the MSD directly off then ECU output without the transistor and it didn't work. I did use an MSD Blaster coil The setup worked really well. I had to use an MSD tach adaptor to make the 280Z tach work, and remove the resistor in the tach signal line.

Let me know when you get to the spindle pins... and need the puller.

This is how I did mine - Straight pipe down to Turbonetics Racegate flange, WG outlet through 1.75" mandrel bent exhaust pipe to a JC Whitney($23.00!) stainless flex coupling, then into the downpipe.

I set up one of these on a built 406 Chevy - Awesome system! I'll get the manual from the shop tomorrow and look up some specs. I "think" it has provisions for several "divide by" ratios for ignition - I'll get back to you tomorrow.