sticky280zx

got one ready to roll....50 shipped/paypal included

Shouldve stuck with the nice rust free 240 for 5k...prolly wouldve made some money or atleast come out even on that. I think the "lesson learned" would be not to jus throw money at a (for lack of better terms) undesirable sports car from the 70s. Much less just to turn around and sell it right after you get it "finished", still looks like it needs some finishing/cleaning up to most. Also theres a reason why everyone gets "used" low mile ls1-2-3's...to save about 1/2 or better over just buying it. Lesson learned would be to do some research on buying/restoring/selling cars, even if youre doing it as a hobby otherwise you can BET on losing your ass every time. These cars arent high on the resale list, hence me saying "undesirable"...if you would have dont all of the above to an old 69 camaro, you might have come out ahead...not to mention you couldve bought a shell or roller for 2-5k and had a completely custom old "HOT ROD" that EVVVERRYYYYONE wants. Still havent heard your reasoning for selling even though its been asked many times before....

yea thats what i was talking about...i know theyre "played out" but they are cheap, well made, and the right size (or atleast close enough) remember the cheap part...it takes big $$$ to get exactly what you want kindof like fast,reliable,cheap...but think size,weight,cheap. now pick 2....

yep pretty sure, but he did alot of weird things that were "no no's" but do you know anyone with an l28 with a dual su setup running 12's lol prolly not, search his name and you will find some interesting stuff

i will say 12 second SU norm used to double stack regular headgaskets...just a thought.

theres is enough info on this site and 2 others (that i can think of off the top of my head) that almost anyone with half a brain or good reading skills could do it. Then again there is alot of trial and error while tuning so maybe you could set it up to drive daily...then take it to the nearest big city for someone to tune it properly for pushing the limits. But again there is tons of info and maps already on this site.

ahh ppk saw a fatlace sticker and was all over your car...i for one understand what an airdam does for ride height lol, i think youre on track with wheel size but definately not big enough or enough offset. The group buy rota rims are veryyyy close to flush on a stock body ZX and theyre 9 -13 front and 9.5 -17 rear, running 235-40-17 and 275-40-17 should get you buy and not rub, especially if you roll the fender lips (if you havent already). and those EAGLE ALLOYS that are your "table" should fit nicely as well...we will see for sure because im about to be sticking the 15x8 -35 and 15x10 -45 on my zx for my "big" wheels

what compression....just asking cause there are a few 383 sbc cars down here that run mid 9's-mid 10's...just on the motor or a small 150 shot. Like i figured though, thought it was a first time out/working out bugs kinda deal. Just hurts me to see a turbo neon whoop up on a boosted forged v8, even with a botched launch.

Lots of power...why such a high ET...you got plenty of meat back there but what suspension setup are you running, or was that a previous ET without alot of seat time?

from my vast wheel whoring, i know that a 275 fits pretty flush on a 9.5 rim, and a buddy's c4 vette runs 315's on an 11" so i would say 305 on a 10 is bulging a bit and a 10.5-11 is flush

haha do you have a chip on your shoulder bud? i sure as hell dont care enough to search out every post he's made, he made this thread, said tape would be off in the AM, so any rational person would expect him to post the final results in his original thread where he started the discussion/topic. And now that i click that lovely link, i had already seen that thread...not anything new or even the whole car, it looks like a half finished paintjob...didnt confine it to the hood, and by adding the fenders/front end in and not doing anything to the back it looks really lopsided. shouldve just dont it pink with yellow wheels scraping as much as possible as said before.

anymore info on the decades worth of knowledge Tony? Most of us use points as an upgrade and i for one havent heard much else as far as a nice stock distributor upgrade....

those bbs wheels have a girly offset, i would look into something around what i posted...some real meet, also i had 275s on those rears and could easily fit a 305 on it (but would NOT put a 305 on a 9" wheel) and as far as the bbs's again....not wide enough, i actually will have that wheel/flare combo in a week or two if you would be interested. I am actually taking it off of the car, just let me know. -Jeff

you should just paint it pink, and put yellow wheels on it, slam the piss out of it untill the floor is just a bunch of scraped metal, and put as many stickers as you can possibly fit on any piece of glass there is, and all the while say "F#ck all you people, youre just jealous haters"....seriously its the tards that go to nice car meets like "cars and coffee" with their blue taped on cardboard that think its funny that make me really glad i am not them. Seriously there are "theme" cars that look good but the key is execution and that first "attempt" didnt come close, but wheres the pics? Be "proud" like the rest of the....well its your car, do what you want.

you got pics of em on a z?? and i might trade you for a pair of doors or something like that on your list lol dont want to spend the cash on em right now especially since ive got a parts car or two lol

normally on tripples (like everything else) you do the same thing to everything since in theory everything should be the same and balanced so they fire the same. Ie 4 cyls running rich and 2 lean...i would start with the same thing in each, and change all 3 little by little untill you get it tuned with the 02, or just take it to an amazing shop like robello or someone that really knows what theyre doing with multiple carbs, austin healeys, mg's, etc race shops that use dual or tripple carb setups.

plus the fact that the rear lights stick out like a sore thumb since they arent "recessed" from the factory

well reason being is if its not a "lip" type spoiler (which leaves the huge bumperless gap) it is a "kit" piece (which has a bumper made in) lol hence the delima...and custom is the only way to go, hence the lack of motivation. -Jeff

Please look at this thread, and all you should need is PORTING, more fuel, and maybe a standalone....unless you like all that extra stuff most other turbo guys do... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94800-psi-verses-timing-advanced/ AKA spend most of your budget on the head, that thing that limits the flow of your turbo engine

nice paint, for some reason though i havent been able to justify shaving the back...ive had many zx's and even with a front spoiler/dropped bumper they always look goofy with no butt. I put a full kit on the last one after just trying to put the front bumper on and thinking about shaving the rear..theres just a big gap in the stock front with a shaved back, and the front kit really "needs" the back to me to look right..oh well more pics of it though. Ps heres franks in a size we can actually see lol

Im not pushing anything, im just very happy with the 300hp range, tell me where i said i wanted more? When i do want more i will be going with a turbo motor, kinda funny how ive had done multiple turbo setups for other people and their car, pieced the parts together, and done alot of the "flow" work myself, and come dyno time they have been more than happy and normally their goal is exceeded by 20% or so and normally with smaller components than they had thought in the first place. Also alot of people on this board are alllll about the 300-350 range for their turbo cars with all that added stuff that i just dont want to mess with. Please list for me the Names of people on this site or anyother Z site for that matter that are DRIVING their l28 turbo cars with 500+ hp (i know its not 800 like vg's, but then agian how many of those Z's do you see)? This site has some people who know what they are talking about and always speading the knowledge and those that keep more to themselves and share when needed. I would think that the "sticky" about 300-350whp thread is a bunch of junk and isnt the greatest "outline" for people building a turbo Lseries but hey....its at the top of the page, when good reads/threads FULL of informative and backed up statments, dont get that red star and the spotlight they deserve instead you get to "search" to find them. I dont really care if my car makes more than 300hp so i dont care to deal with the turbo stuff when its been proven 300+ is doable even with small boost levels (and NOT using a 35R or bigger turbo). But hey what do i know, im aparently just some pushy N/A guy who doesnt know what he's talking about and doesnt have respect for teh awesomeness of teh turbo carzz ...and im still trying to figure out how n/a is easier? I dont want to pick a fight or try and tear your single post to shreds but how many 300hp n/a or stroker builds are running around and what was the avg cost of them (done right, that aer lasting) vs the 300whp turbo builds (on just this site alone). Obviously it takes alot more knowledge, measuring, mixture of parts, etc to build an L series N/a or stroker to reach 300hp than it does to get a head ported, add bigger injectors, and go well beyond 300 in a turbo build. I have and will always bet/think/know that it is easier to get big numbers from a turbo build, but thats not what im after. I am not a dyno queen or trying to run 9's, so big numbers dont mean jack to me except that there tends to be alot of unusable powerband with those cars.

ive always run a fidanza fly and a centerforce dual friction, never had any issues with either and that clutch is very forgiving since it is "sprung" if you drive the car aroudd the city or just dont like HARSH engagement, YET havent seen any issues with it lasting a while. Ive ran that clutch setup on 3 different builds and never had an issue with any of them, some being (n/a efi) 180 or so hp/tq, another (stroker) 250-300whp/tq, and another (n/a carb w/ spray at times) that was 180-200whp/tq to 330whp/tq (on a 125 shot). So in my opinion its a great setup and only costs about 500-650, even cheaper if you find the flywheel used and in good shape (like my last one for 250).

i said shoot me an offer, obviously i could drop the price to move em, but a full set (like yours) goes for 1200 or so, wanna sell your pair....so i can have a full set for the b210 =)

If it falls through let me know, ive got about 20+ pics of how clean this car is. Literally a sand and paint car, too bad its not a "240z" or it would have been sold a long time ago haha -Jeff

Being from here its going to be very hard to get into a drivable 240z for that price. especially a clean enough one to not have to weld a ton of aftermarket pieces into (therefore costing you a ton ontop of the car, especially with premade pieces). But there have been a few 280z's in that range but again most are rusty. Mind sharing your plans for the car or if rust is going to be an issue for you? Also would you be interested in something that is already there and you just have to "tinker" to get it running, since i would figure youre going to be opposed to getting a clean shell and just starting your project from the ground up. Let me know as i have a few z's (read, 5-8+) in all different states and know a few people in the area that go through them pretty often and might have a deal come up. -Jeff