sticky280zx

ive got this car...that i would be willing to trade, needs a fender/hood and paint but is very clean and has a nice black interior....and no rust, lots of recent things done to it and was my daily for 2years, just got a b210 and it gets better milage, and with a new baby i needed the back seat. fender and hood have a little wrinkling (bought it that way) still works just fine obviously just for looks they would need to be swapped out.

oh no i read the thread, and also know what "these" people spend on their cars, and by how he's talking that i would be wasting my breathe telling him to just spend 2k on portwork. Any decent builder knows how things work, which is why i just shake my head everytime people think that turbo's are the best thing in the world and theyre going to turbo their z or zx. I have been around the block even at young age to know the workings of everything and that if you can add air and fuel to a motor you will make power...thats the simple 2nd grade version. It gets more complicated when you do the same thing, with less junk added on, and spend your money doing the right mods which people always say....BUT i can make more power with a bigger turbo. I just tell them whip out a straw any straw...now blow, mk now blow harder, harder, keep going, blow, come on dont pass out just blow harder. THATS what your turbo is doing, and just like you its going to get tired and "pass out" eventually because youre still blowing through the same damn straw nomatter how hard you blow and its not moving the air any more efficiently. Thats the whole point of any motor is to move air and burn fuel. If you clear out a smoother, bigger, more useable path for the air, it will make more power, do it faster, and not "burn" itself out as fast...aka lasting longer. But as ive said a million times, people want to make 350-400hp on these cars there are many ways of doing it but most will only take the one route because for some reason to spend 1k or more on a big turbo, another 500-1k for a quality intercooler setup and other misc (name brand) turbo parts like BOV's and WG's, but spending 2k on a "single piece" (even though the head is more the "heart" of the build vs the turbo and its "helpers"). Like ive always said, i like N/A power, if i can have 300hp out of an easily stroked, ported to **** head, with a couple carbs....why screw with a turbo, all the extra components (like the wiring/standalone/tuning/etc) just to get the same amount of power. I also dont have to raise and drop boost, worry about cops looking at me cause my BOV is loud, etc. I can just put around in my stroker but when i want to goooo, i just rev the piss out of it, Plus ill take the sounds of a mean stroked l6 vs a turbo l6 anyday. Plus people just think it "has a cam" but nothing major untill i wrap it out, stealthier to me. Then again i also loved my l28 that was .40 over, nicely (read big) ported head, Lumpy cam, Header, 280zx dist, running a 650 holley 4brl (which had been rejetted-jetted down), etc etc with a TON of timing (thanks to reading my ass off on BRAAP and others great posts. Plus since i had the 4brl i could just swap jets/needles out, pull timing, change plugs, and run a nifty 125 shot via wet plate....was fun as hell but again just sounded lumpy and everyonce in a while after hitting the button i was asked if it was a v8...But id rather build my cars once, the right way, and if i can get around certain parts (like turbos) i will continue to. I can list reasons why i just dont like turbo cars and dont feel like rewiring my car and the other associated stuff when i could just build a nice N/A motor and enjoy it even more. Didnt want to double post, but like he just said "i dont need a bigger turbo unless i win the lottery or something" Im pretty sure telling him, the secret is portwork, send your head to BRAAP, Robello, Sunbelt....and tell them the numbers you want and that youre ok with spending the 2-3k in headwork to do just that.

What was the point of posting that link, in reference to my post....i know what makes power, this guy wants more boost, never said squat about timing. I know the gains of timing but i also know that on these cars (and most any other) you have to run an intercooler, which was my point by saying that an intercooler is FACTORY on almost every turbo car nowadays. What was the point of asking me if i read that link....maybe you should be addressing the OP and not me, i didnt have any questions, thanks though.

my ad.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94316-real-deal-ssr-rev-mesh-15x8-0/ im looking for cash though if you want to make an offer

an intercooler is needed to make any amount of decent power, what cars nowadays come turboed without intercoolers....exactly, not a waste or "throwing" money at it in my opinion, and obviously all the automakers think so as well.

man am i happy....just took it for a sping round the neighborhood, and man theyre prolly mad but first second and third at times were reallly fun tonight

About to install a 93' 240sx Clutch slave line on my 74 b210 ....after installing the slave itself a week ago (since it was going out a month ago when i bought it) and the hose decided to blow up the other day. (thank you internet for showing me that awesome similarity) i noticed it was older but not cracked/brittle and i couldnt find anyone who carried the part aka autozone, orieleys, etc untill i found out the 240sx would fit =( but ill be beating the piss out of it today after its fixed.... =) i love my grandparents neighborhood,long stretches, sweeping turns, tight turns, and its by the lake, so its quiet, not crowded, and no cops.... makes for a great little track

another 2k needed to just clean it up looks like

sounds like you need to adjust your valves, and if you are running higher or advanced timing premium gas is a must.

looks like the glass ones i had on my old 240.... those are 15x8 -35 fronts and 15x10 -45 rears Also i have steel flares on my v8 280z and it is running 16x9 or 9.5 centerlines out back and 15x8 fronts....so im pretty sure you might be talking about a different flare Jmort. I can see atleast 4-5inches of lip on that car pictured so i would say those are 9-11's on it front and back

Just gonna let you know He has a ZX...which is a totally different beast vs the 240/260/280Z. Alright well, there are alot of things you can do to make that car quicker and one of the cheapest after what you already have is, TIMING. These cars love it, search the forums and you will notice, although you might spend a little more $$ at the pump the extra UMPH will be well worth it. But yes the HP setup will work damn good, i have it on my car right now (still has the stickers on it, and only been rolled around/driven for maybe 50 miles lol bought the car with them in a box) and ill probably be taking it off for my coilovers, thats about a month or so out but if you can wait i can make you a good deal =) But these cars with shocks and springs (even the hp NON edjustables) if you buy MSA's swaybar kit thats all you really need to do, ofcourse bushings and new ball joints/tie rods will help out alot as well.

there you go....now remember there are many who just add the turbo and megasquirt and have great results, so that is something you should keep in mind as well. Dont let a timeline get in the way of building it to what you want and within a budget, especially if it isnt your daily driver and you have the space to work on it. I cannot stress that enough to people. The motor does have limits but all motors do, and like we were talking about last night, you should think of the end goal and what you want that to be and go for it (but stick to the plan). Obviously if it was to get this car running and enjoyable then boom youve got it with a relay, but also think about the gains that you could have with megasquirt (even if it is a stock motor). Remember you can always sell that off later or use it on another buid down the road, but adding a turbo to that already megqsquirted N/A (after you get bored with it or just want to liven it up) isnt all that bad of an idea. Plus while you are driving and enjoying it you can be saving money/parts for the added turbo build down the line.

hot main chick too....though noone knows who she is....or maybe someone does and isnt telling lol

Build it right the first time or youll rebuild it later, and cost you more $$ just use common sense and remember your pockets arent deep enough to screw up or "redo" anything. -Jeff

just remember fluid is cheap and bleeding isnt a huge task, and alot better than trying to shortcut it and something worse happening.

NEEEDDDS a drop, please just an inch or two but please drop er down....PS theres a wagon for sale...CHEAP here in dallas =) looks a little different though lol

I would let him know that you are taking it to a trans shop and that he will be paying the bill....not very hard really.

ive got some nice black 240z seats, you have pm

Haha and that trip will cost him more than that $20 in gas alone, let alone time, effort, energy etc....and what more do you get...the satisfaction of sticking to your guns, sticking it to "the man," spending more on gas than restocking? Seriously i wish people would grow up and if its for your "pride" or piece of mind, you probably have lost yours or never had one to begin with.

the biggest bargaining tool up north is a clean car....i have sold many z's to people up north who can only find nice restored/garaged ones for 8-10k+ or they can buy a nice shell/runner for 3-4k from me and spend an extra 500-1k getting it shipped lol which do you think theyd do. You might want to look down south for one in better shape and have it shipped (guy local to me...yes the legend....BIG PHIL) just bought 3 turbo 280zx's for 1k and spent a day and prolly a couple hundred bucks to get them all running....seems alot better to do that and spend a little on shipping, than buying one up north for 2k and spending a few months or thousands fixing the rust.

rust just grows....so sooner is always better than later, also you need to think about structural integrity. There are a few people that have had major issues driving a rusty car...there was one on this board that added some nice shiny new tension rods and ripped his rusty box ends to hell and he was lucky that it only happened while driving slowly and not on the highway where it couldve been alot worse.

its in the sticks but cheap to live out that way just not alot to do

so you think that a huge corperate company really cares that much? Or that you should care that much over what $20 worth of parts and shipping? I mean i understand if people jerk you around or screw you with a 2k order (like i had with MSA) but hey you talk to the guy higher up and if they fix it great if not dont use em anymore but all that effort over $20 is a little extreme especially when you can get the same part (or better SS part) from someone else like others have said. Msa a few years back had screwed me over,well really a guy from finland i was buying parts for, and ended up waiting longer on than i needed which pushed back his car getting shipped out to him (since all the parts were being put in the car and sent together). Well what happened was i bought 2-3k worth of parts and ofcourse they had a few missing that were on back order, i could either pay seperate shipping and have it shipped in two orders or wait and they would ship it all at once (spose to only be 2 weeks till they got it all in). But instead i call in 2 weeks and they have those parts but sold one of MY parts that should have been set aside for my complete order because someone had ordered one (which was now on backorder for a week) and instead of telling them its on back order they just snagged mine from the back, well i was pissed because i had to reschedule shipping, and figured that my 2-3k order was more inportant than his $100 steering wheel. But i told them that was jacked up and to put all my stuff in a damn box in the back and NOT touch it, and just put the parts in it when they came in and when they were all there ship it. Ofcourse they did exactly what i said and it probably was just an honest screw up but hey it happens, you just have to take one every once in a while and deal with it. I was pissed then but hey ive ordered atleast 4k worth of parts combined from them...for me, customers in the US, and overseas and havent had an issue since. I still use them and will continue to because they have good service, they answer any questions, and still make or atleast provide access to great parts at a good price. Stop making such a stink and move on, either order from someone else or wait that extra what 12 hours and go into the store FACE to FACE and order the part with the same exact deilivery time lol.

I have a perfect 280z shell that is original 2 owner, that is just a rolling chassis now. Email me at datsundriver88@hotmail.com for pictures, i am asking only $1,500 for the car as it really just needs the drivetrain (all of the original wiring is still intact/installed) and whatever interior you would need (has dash still intact and center console). I can also help arrange shipping if need be. Thanks -Jeff

nothing wrong with the stock tb at all but for only 50$ or less to get the bigger tb and spacer along with porting the intake manifold it makes a big difference on drivability. I know that driving around town is alot easier and less shifting because it responds/flows easier than the stock tb. Also you dont have to have the throttle wide open to get the car moving...you can have it 3/4 and itll get up and go just fine. One thing about the stock fan setup is it can mess up your water pump, and be loud as hell...i dont think those are performance mods but i would think that the electric fan will cool better as well as provide alot quiter ride, or atleast let you hear that header/exhaust more