sticky280zx

He was kicked off forever ago because he screwed people, looks like he still is, and is trying to sell off all his molds to make up some money someone probably came after him for. Not to mention that when buying molds they are only good for so long, you have to justify the cost vs how many you can make/sell off of them, etc...i wouldnt buy anything from him personally, but the only things i would even think about..since the reaction research stuff is copywritten (im pretty sure) would be the imsa stuff as you cant find that anymore, i know a few mold makers here by Dallas that will do fender, hood, front lips, etc molds for $300 or under and with them you could easily make 50-hundreds of parts, looks like alot of overpriced OLD possibly very worn-out/over-used/useless molds to me.

that car sooooo needs a shaved intake mani...too clean to not do that

that oh so slow 4 cyl youre talking about is a HUGE sleeper, with the right parts that dinky 4cyl can make 250-300 whp pretty easy...go around and ask some dirt track racing guys.

coils would help your car alooooot more than tires imho because of the amount of adjustability, height, stiffness, etc....and youre going to need all the help you can get with a turbo 5.0...i still have the turbo my buddy used on his efi 92 5.0 that made 566 on 10 psi and had plennnnty more left in it (think it was finally 850+ on race gas and a built block maxing out his 1000cc's)

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the reason body shops wont do it is because its a PITA and they have all kinds of EASY jobs that pay the bills so why deal with ya'lls rust buckets...thats when you have to do it yourself or find someone that will do it for you that has experience and cares about these cars. There are alot of "welders" out there but there are also alot of Half ass welders that "attmept" jobs theyve never done before hoping that it works out right, you need experience and you have to pay for that, i know a ton of body shops that will charge 2-3k for floor pans some include material while others want you to provide premade pans. I have done floors and rails for 1500-2k including all material for years and had a ton of happy customers, but i can promise you everyone of them thought "its still 1500, if i couldve found a rust free car for that i wouldve" or they kick themselves for buying the 4k "rusty runner" vs the 1500 "rust-free roller" but like ive said, i just fix the ploblems and sometimes people just dont have a choice depending on their location. There also are alot pf premade/repo stuff that is made that makes it easy, but someone that knows what theyre doing can still save you hundreds or more using sheet metal vs premade panels.

That Gnose is made by Justin Hodges, please read up on him (on this site and others) he was banned because of his "business" dealings. He screwed people on parts, out of alot of waiting time and recieving junk/inferior parts that wouldnt work without being reworked, etc...BUYER BEWARE. Msa has good parts, but the picture looks photoshopped and remember that kits never just "fit." It will need a pro body shop, or alot of time/patience to get it to fit and look good. Good luck and hope that helps. -Jeff

i know of a pretty rough zxr (not horrible just needs some love, new paint etc) if youre serious...think it was for 2-3k

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needs more wheel...ditch those xxr's for the rotas and fill out those wells, and most of us that like our cars dont slam them because we dont want to screw up the nice body, like your front lip that got broken off. But then again when the whole passenger side of the car is crushed in, the floors/rails being repeatedly raped by scraping doesnt really matter now does it...

ive got one in texas if you are interested for 2k

guys look up the 15" wide tire sizes and pricing, theyre all over...245,255,275,295...list goes on...and best of all look at the $125 and under price tags (i just put 245 or 255 fronts and 295 rears on my 68 f100 and it was under $400 for the full set) and there are a few brands...thats why i will always go 15s or 17s but the 15s are SOOOO much cheaper tire wise. On my old rbr's i spent more on tires than i did the wheels...hate doing that, and like i said there are alot of options, gt2's, bfg ta's, cooper cobra's, indy 500's, etc obviously not some huge performance tires like yoko s drives, etc... but slick/road slicks are cheaper as well

its brake smart guy...and have you priced one lately...in good shape, or hell 250-300+ at an auto parts place...good luck buying junk

looks like he punched the pedal and full throttle + no hands = what we just watched

amen Ken....ive had a shell forever thats in great shape (that i just sold) for 1500 including all the panels, i try and explain that having to replace the floors with premade panels and a shop will be close to 2K+ but they just dont want to spend it in the beginning for some reason....oh well not my wallet/problem

first off i say that because ive had 2 10's in a Z and theyre loud (even with a little mtx 200 series amp) but the car needs sound not just bump. I would be scared of those 15s with a big amp behind them not to mention you will have to get 6x9s in the back and figure out something for the front as the dash speakers (4") wont provide enough sound at all....so youll either have to do kick panels (better for sound) or door panel speakers (which make you cut the doors and sound muffled)....theres alot of issue with the front speaker arrangement.

$100 or what do you got to trade?

to be honest id skip the 10 and just add 6x9's in the back instead (there are premade panels) you would just have to make the side enclosures to fit with the other panel in the back.

if it was me i would move them forward, thicken them up, and put the "datsun" (or change it to 280zx) right above the bottom of the fender in the "indented section.... quick edit in paint

Get rid of the 2 back side panels (one with small pocket and other covering the spare,you lose the spare but theyre junk anyway) put the 15s in those places and the single 10 along the back...again pull the taillight cover panel and put it there. Glass everything in and it should look like this...and that should work for you. And i always stick my amps/crossovers under the seats to try and prevent theft. Also can run the wiring under the carpet /thru to the back along with the taillight wiring.

plastic and vinyl dont weigh that much....the tar and carpet on the floor is alot more than the plastic/vinyl...I am going to have to get my 81 280zx on the scales soon, ttop car, auto stuff still there (have 79 doors i will be putting on just for more weight savings if its not where i want it), NO dash, wiring taped to crash bar/run to cluster/triple gauge cluster, heater core/ac comp/lines/condensor/nothing that was under the dash just the wiring on the bar, extra brackets/junk in the engine bay that isnt needed,bumpers, single celica cloth seat, no tar on the floor/home depot carpet padding (lightweight multi-foam stuff) adhesive sprayed to the floor, NO interior pieces or door panels, no spare, header w/ 2 1/2" exhaust (still lighter than stock), all brackets/junk/etc on the bottom of the car is gone...still have a little more to go but i am hoping for 2k-2200 with me (140#) & gas in the car.

They came STANDARD on black pearls, (only black z STANDARD in 1978) and an option for other cars the same year. Sorry man been stupid busy (Its Christmas light season), just got back in town today, and will get the pics to you tomorrow. Might have to have you meet me as i am working on friday =/ or pick them up from the house and just pay them there. Talk to you soon. -Jeff

I know yall are trying to sell your stuff but he's buying my set and NO he wanted the BLACK PEARL wheels...

not hugely wide but theyre a good offset for flares...but i will definitely second the drug dealer money and the fact that you need to sell that rusty parts car and get a nicer shell with that cash lol