DeleriousZ

oooh oooh me me me http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3034 you're welcome

Drax did you do that over the Coquihalla? If so, that's a damn steep highway to be gauging mileage on!

it almost sounds like your timing is off, but who knows. Have you taken a MAF from a working car and tried it? What do the plugs look like?

I used an angle grinder with knotted bristle wire cup, kicked the unholy crap out of the undercoating and anything else in its way.

If you want to freshen up your electronic stuff, look at $2000+ from the dealership, if it's even available anymore. Depending on what kind of upgrade you're looking for, you could do tokico HP (blues) and eibach springs for a mild refresher, or to go all out you can go bilstein struts, z3r springs (z31parts.com) and a full polyurethane bushing refresh. Don't go with Tokico lowering springs, they give the car a horrible raked look.

cocaine is a hell of a drug. I believe he means to say the z31 distributor cap won't work with the pathfinder plenum.

I'm in the process of welding in some new sheet metal for the floors of my z31 (rust repair) and am finding that even with a Lincoln Mig Pak 10 using FCAW it's too much for the stock floors to handle. The 18ga metal I'm using as replacement can take it fine however. I am desperately seeking a bottle so I can use the welder like it was meant to be, thin stuff is so much easier using GMAW process.

stick with the z31 'style' injectors. you can get larger injectors from a multitude of cars, from the rx-7 (fc), DSM injectors, mk3 supra, old mercedes etc. They basically are the 11mm o-ring type. They will fit perfectly into your lower intake manifold, and if you use stock top feed fuel rails, they will work great. You can also buy billet fuel rails from places like z31parts.com or diabolic motorsports. Going 'off the wall' for modifying z31's generally ends up with a torn down engine and no progress, check out the stickies at z31performance.com and they will have all of your modification needs. Also check out the turbo FAQ in the link below, it will give you good guidance when modifying your z31. http://redz31.net/turbofaq/turbo.faq.htm

Go for NisTune. It's 400 AUD (australian) and it's just a chip that gets installed into the stock computer. You're then able to fully tune your fuel and ignition maps, along with a huge amount of other things. http://www.nistune.com

Stock used turbo setup is the way to go on this one. N/A power is 10 tonnes of fail for the z31, the sohc vg just can't hack it when it comes to making power. There's only 2 or 3 people in the entire z31 community that have made over 200whp with a vg30e. And for the costs of those builds, you could have a 500whp turbo car. Anyway, check out the following link for the turbo conversion bible. http://redz31.net/pages/turbo.html Look around that site, it'll give you a ton of good info for z31's. edit: and by the way, the stock z31 distributor cap Won't work with the pathfinder manifold. An older Maxima one should however.

sometimes you'll find dealerships that are VERY stubborn to do this. To see if you've had the injector service campaign done on your z, the best bet is to look for a yellow ring of electrical tape around both of the injector wiring harnesses (the main ones that run along the side of the plenum)

Wabamun has a decent lake for boating, lots of mill foil tho. Anyway, the z32 transmission can be made to work with a few things, but any manual z31 transmission will serve you fine until you start making more serious torque numbers. you won't see much gain doing anything while the engine is in non turbo form. The sohc heads don't flow very well for any sort of n/a power. You might notice a bit of low end response from the longer intake manifold runners however.

IIRC the later pathfinder exhaust manifold studs are 10mm vs the 8mm z31 manifold studs.

This may sound silly but are you using the correct bleeding procedure? I picked up some 'speed bleeders' (basically a ball and spring in the bleeder screw) that made bleeding super easy for me, as well as a 1 man operation. The car (z31) bled perfectly after sitting with no calipers installed for about a year.

Nice z31 mate! Any details on what's been done to her?

Wow you are definitely not a member of the z31 community, and I mean that in a good way. Congrats for just doing it, not coming to any forum and asking about it, like most people do (not usually on this specific forum, in general) Good luck the rest of the way, take lots of pictures!!

There's a good chance your sensor has died, or is dying again. Those things seem to have an effective life of about 5 years before kicking the bukkit, but have been known to be DOA. The stock gauge is also pretty crappy. If you're going to replace it with an aftermarket gauge and sending unit, know that the thread for the sender is 1/8" BSPT, not NPT, you will need an adapter for it. Adapters can be found from z31parts.com or autometer, I'm sure many other places too.

If you mean the headlight switch on the stalk, there is a way to repair it. http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3034 apologies for the outside site link.

Great info!!

Any piston made for the de will work one way or another. If you have the W-series engine (you do, if it's the original motor in your car) then there's only slight machining required for the pistons to work on your stock rods. Just be careful of the advertised compression ratio if you're using z32 stuff, the combustion chamber volumes differ between the vg30e and vg30de. The number floating around these days is that you lose about 1 unit of compression using z32 pistons in a z31. So if you order 10:1 z32 pistons you'll get 9:1 compression in your Z.

Interesting. The answer might be somewhere in this convoluted messed up brake info thread (hard to read) http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=210

That's weird, did you take any pics of the misalignments?

The washers that came with the bolts that were on the z32 brakes when I bought them were damn near the required size of 0.17" so I figured close is good enough, I can deal with .02" of uneven pad wear. Any spacer is better than no spacer though.

I think it has a blend of porsche 944 and bmw e30 m3 look to it. It fits the 280 quite nicely.

FWIW, you could probably grab another tb from an earlier nissan Stanza. They are equipped with said bottom-coolant-piping 60mm throttle body. Bust out some madhaus reverse engineering and you'll be set.